and she runs and looks decent...

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After two shorts months my commando is finally running well and looks 10 times better, took it out for the first time today and
ran great, clutch seemed to slip a little in higher rpms thou but thats a future fix dont have the money for that right now,
what do you all think...

Before
and she runs and looks decent...

After
and she runs and looks decent...

and she runs and looks decent...

and she runs and looks decent...

and she runs and looks decent...

and she runs and looks decent...


oh and the SVT Cobra in the background , Terminator Supercharged Edition is for sale :cry: :cry:
 
Lookin' good. From the front brake line, etc., I'm guessing used to be some hi-rider bars on there.
 
Nice bike! Is that a '73? What are the black things on the fork tubes? Rubber sleeves? Why?
Of course I'm partial to the blue also. It looks to be original paint.

The '03 Cobra Terminator looks sharp too! I just picked up an '03 convertible a few months back. 476 rwhp from 281 cubes! And still very streetable! More than I can say for the '69 440-6 pack Super Bee I had when I was in my 20's.
 
Nice bike, I love the paint.
You could probably form an expansion loop with the extra brake line behind your lamp shell.
It would be out of sight and out of mind.

Nice Job!..... 8)
 
Its a 74 and the past owner painted the tubes on the forks. Im not sure why but. Didn't get to removing ot yet. And yeah that's the original paint. I will get it repainted one day. And yea i have to fix the brake line
 
Its looking good , Have you had the clutch plates out ?
They can get bit of coat of goey paste , so actions a bit off .
If theyve not been inspected , a wash & clean With a green 3M scotchbrite pad sees it right .
Slideing the clutch causes it , once you start ' letting it in ' the service life extends .

Comuteing in a city , lane splitting in witer , goos it up quick . Causes Soft action & sticks slightly.
Causes clonkey shifts ( IF you listen ) . Set right , it just schnicks in . Clutch or shift . BOTH Actually . :D

Fairly abruptly , the lever further out ( the engage point ) at higher rpms . So tricks if you dont realise that .
 
nr325996 said:
And yeah that's the original paint.

If thats the original paint, then treasure it.
Get the pinstripes and decals redone, if you must.....

Getting it exactly the right shade in a repaint is somewhat tricky, and never exactly the same... ?
So rather rare - been the subject of many posts here - and the shades of blue vary all over the place...

If it was a hi-rider though ???
 
Yes that is the original paint and I replaced the decals. Paint it actually not in to bad of shape as you can tell in happy with it being original and yes it was a high rider. Had a double Corbin seat on it before and the hi rider bars
 
nr325996 said:
, clutch seemed to slip a little in higher rpms thou but thats a future fix dont have the money for that right now,
what do you all think...

Bike looks great. I have exactly the same one but unfortunately paint did not survive. Just clean yr clutch plates and the slip will go away.

Cheers
 
Bike looks great. Am I seeing things or is there a slight stain on the right side of the tank in your 3rd picture? The reason I ask is that I have a stain in almost the exact same spot! It only shows up in certain lighting. Must have been from fuel at one time.

and she runs and looks decent...
 
really nice looking! Changing the bars changes the whole look!


I had clubmans on my bike for a few minutes but I changed back to a low 2" set of black standard bars. I like them though, they look pretty cool.
 
FWIW. Cleaning the clutch plates should cost nothing. If you need a clutch compressing tool, search for said, and you will see many idea on how this can be accomplished for pennies.

It's a great feel out on the road, isn't it. Well done.
 
if your into the clutch to do some plate maintenance, for under $30 CAD I believe you could purchase a Dyno Dave clutch rod seal, fluid from the gear box could also be one of the suspects related to the clutch slippage, by seeping down the clutch rod from the gear box.
A good chunk of the members on this forum could vouche for the effectivness of the seal.

Cheers......... 8)
 
Thanks for all your comments and help. I didn't know how far I would have to go with the. Clutch. And by the it sounds it's an easy fix. Do you have to drain all off the gear oil first before opening up the chain case? I can't find anything in the manual and have never opened it up. And yes i have that exact same stain in the same place the two lines. Idk how it got there's a everything i do to it it won't come off.
 
Don't have to drain GB. Have a rather large pan under the chain case to remove. There should be about 7 oz. in it. You can make a diaphragm compressor with a piece of 3 or 4" pvc cap and a bolt and couple of nuts/washer. Rod seal is good, but may require fettling. There were threads on adjusting the clutch (pack height) and one on the rod seal recently. Might as well do it.

Nice project.

Dave
69S
 
Regarding that stain on the tank, I had my painted parts professionally polished and detailed and it didn't do a thing. I didn't want to color sand the parts for fear of removing even more of the original pinstriping. It is what it is!
 
DogT said:
Don't have to drain GB. Have a rather large pan under the chain case to remove. There should be about 7 oz. in it. You can make a diaphragm compressor with a piece of 3 or 4" pvc cap and a bolt and couple of nuts/washer. Rod seal is good, but may require fettling. There were threads on adjusting the clutch (pack height) and one on the rod seal recently. Might as well do it.

Nice project.

Dave
69S

Rod seal cheap insurance. Must have clutch removal tool. See threads on the subject. I hope you have maintenance manual. Easy to use.
Clean clutch plates and inside of clutch hub thoroughly, like the manual suggests I use gasoline outside garage and a scotch bright pad. When you reinstall cover be very careful to not over fill with oil.
Although the chain requires it the clutch itself is ment to remain oil free or it will slip for sure.
Add oil until it just reaches the bottom of the lower most screw hole in primary cover.
The manual has a cc amount but it's not close to hand.
I use 20-50 since it really is just for chain lube but others use ATF although due to its thinness I'm concerned about leakage.
The rubber perimeter seal if installed properly seals fine.

Nice Bike
Bob
 
I like the ATF and it stays inside my Combats just fine and clutch plates don't mind it to point its used to wet them for initial bed in or after a resurface sanding. Some have to back fill the seal groove with RTV/silicon to get seal proud enough to seal is all. I fill til chain links just touching the oil or fluid. Damaging to shafts and bushes if chain too tight once hot so check that when hot as feels too floppy when cold. Best practice I'm told is use drive chain to pull the gearbox primary tension right then back off drive chain but I've never done that nor had any issues with loosing the set tensions by not doing it the proper way. I have 8000+ miles over 2 yr w/o first hint of clutch issues which implies I better check clutch cable before out of state run.

The quickest way to get scope of Commando issues and what's been done about it is read through Capt. Norton site. It took
me about a year nightly. It would take ya many years to piecemeal this scope and background and technicals on the forum. Google right now is better way to search this forum as only the text searched here not the subject heading which might not show up in text discussing the obvious. Hard copy parts book, manual and maybe the INOA Norton tech book are handy to have on hand.

Expect rusted up fork insides and hydraulic brake insides as forgot to look if yours has any. Fork leaks can show up on engine to drive ya bonkers to find it till looking forward.
 
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