Amal Aluminum float needles??

Hello, I'm playing with a Amal carb & I am wondering if anyone has seen any differance from the Brass float needle to the Aluminum ones. My supplier says that they only gave him the Aluminum ones for a short time & are now selling the Brass ones as stock again.. Has anyone used the Alloy float needles & seen a change???

Last paragraph may answer your question http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1 ... uel-levels
Regards

I bought a brand new set of the viton tipped brass ones in about 1985. I am still using them. That bike has more than 60,000 miles since then. I think they last forever. The nylon ones were not as good. The aluminum ones must be good also. It is hard to beat 28 years of service though.

I have subscribed to Amal's advice and fitted alloy float needles, but also carefully set the stay up floats. I now have a commando that acts like it is a modern bike, in that pulling up at traffic lights etc I am rewarded with a constant 1000rpm stable idle, and the carbs seem to tickle up a little faster. So they have my vote.

Cheers Richard

I have subscribed to Amal's advice and fitted alloy float needles, but also carefully set the stay up floats. I now have a commando that acts like it is a modern bike, in that pulling up at traffic lights etc I am rewarded with a constant 1000rpm stable idle, and the carbs seem to tickle up a little faster. So they have my vote.

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I fitted these a while back but did not notice any difference but bearing in mind my recent (last 14 years!!) in traffic idling woes I'm probably the last one who should comment. Do have a question.....since the ideal float level can vary depending on what you want to achieve what did you set yrs to? I just fitted (yesterday) the stay ups and found them level with the bowl. I left them there as a start point.

Hi Keith
Whilst reading this post on aluminium needle valves which I have been thinking about fitting, I see you are having problems with idle.
Are you using a Boyer? For ten years I could not get my 850 to idle reliably. I tried rebuilt Mk 1s, new Mk1s, different float heights, a single Mk 1,& an S.U. Finally I fitted a Trispark. It now idles. The Trispark curve follows the Lucas ATU curve better.
Regards,
Martyn.

Whilst reading this post on aluminium needle valves which I have been thinking about fitting, I see you are having problems with idle.
Are you using a Boyer?

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No that failed many years ago but it had done 15 years service at least. Now on Pazon which is a good system.
That idle/pickup looks like fuel flow thru the main side. It most likely co-incides with low fuel level but I cannot be sure. All I know is it acted up in the garage, hence all those posts and vids but the last time it was bad on the road was after a run from the Ace to Brighton in Sept. I was with a guy on an old Blade and we had to filter 65 miles. The last bit thru Brighton was a total pig and I remember we filled up about 10 miles out on the return trip. It must have been low then but revving it like a GP carbed Goldie kept it alight. That's why I thought it was temp related since it was a hot day and had spent 30 mins in traffic. Funnily it ran fine on the way back so I'm still not 100%.

Researching others experience with aluminum vs brass float needles. I have noticed with our crap fuel, the brass gums up and gets sticky, the aluminum stays clean. Anyone else notice the same?