Alternator Spacer Issue ???????????

olChris · Dec 24, 2013

I have been trying to reduce the parts trailer by putting "obvious" things together, and suss out whats missing and what dosn't belong.. Not tightened but just doing a stock take..
Got to here when fitting alternator and found 3 spacers in the 5ltr boucket of nuts, bolts and bits.. I thinks they are 06-0377 item 13 (opppps edited these #) grp 8 Old Brits menu.. Can somebody tell me what length they are cos as you can see by photos the winding either need to go further in or the rotor need to come out further ??????.. I have not fitted or found the two shims Items 32, 38 totaling .046th.. there addition will not "centralize" the rotor to the winding..

The spacer i have fitted are 1/2" long give or take .002

olChris · Dec 24, 2013

This spacer below is i think but not sure, 06-0402 item 31 grp8 Olb's.... this one "cos it looks right and fits" has a recess in one side only.. I assume that is crank side so the primary cog and crank mismatches can be accomadated.. My bush is .569 thick... Is this cog a standard size eg ..569 thick.. If this was a 1/4" or so fatter the rotor would line up with the winding..

.

Hobot · Dec 24, 2013

ugh sure glad I got to take mine apart and not try to figure out loose bits in a bin, ugh. You seem to have found the stator spacers and maybe the right crank rotor spacer but might be the clutch spacer as look similar and similar size going by photo's. I had to put a thick washer behind the spacer whoose hollow faces in to clear the crank key. In parts books they list "rotor shims" for spacing the rotor.

toppy · Dec 24, 2013

Mine also fitted like that an there is a thread on this site somewhere about someone with same problem. I believe its a common issue because of the various tolerances of a number of parts like tapers of crank an driver sprocket width of crank case an inner primary etc. all affect the exact position of stator when everything is assembled. The general feeling was that it would not have much of an effect on the performance in terms of voltage produced (or not) an that it was how a lot of bikes left the factory . I simply used equal amounts of the same thickness of washers instead to get the two to line up better.
Remember that the most important part of fitting these is the air gap not the position as viewed from above.

olChris · Dec 25, 2013

hobot said:
ugh sure glad I got to take mine apart and not try to figure out loose bits in a bin, ugh. You seem to have found the stator spacers and maybe the right crank rotor spacer but might be the clutch spacer as look similar and similar size going by photo's. I had to put a thick washer behind the spacer whoose hollow faces in to clear the crank key. In parts books they list "rotor shims" for spacing the rotor.

ugh..Its all part of the fun.. Clutch spacer and rotor are different inside Diameter, so i found out by trial fitting, i havn't found any extra spacers in this bucket so im sure it the one.......... I've yet to start on clutch assembly.. Thats in another bucket. The big bits are mostly there but the spacers,shims washers etc are the challenge..

jaydee75 · Dec 25, 2013

Wow, they really improved it for the Mk3. I don't remember any spacers, maybe one shim. Everything just nests into place. Too bad they made these improvements only at the very last.
Merry Christmas.
Jaydee

Hobot · Dec 25, 2013

I didn't have right shims available either for the rotor so just found one in my round thing bin as rotor not that critical to be perfectly centering in stator as long as air gap enough all round not to clash at hi rpm. Clutch also may need slight shims to align chain and not rub inner case. I don't like being a mechanic but for custom efforts, so not fun for me to dig and hunt and huff and puff on sloppy old parts. Btw don't use the fold over clutch nut locker as its too soft and over time crushes down to relieve clamp pressure and nut can come off on the fly as I've had twice, once on each my Combats - as its touchy compromise to get tight enough not to come off yet not so tight it folds over the tiny locator circlip. Use a hardened steel washer or source up the crinkled spring type washer some have subsituted to good effect.

pete.v · Dec 25, 2013

olChris said:
I

The spacer i have fitted are 1/2" long give or take .002

Those are the right spacers.
I have gone to the hardware store and got 3/8" spacers to help locate the stator further over the rotor. Whether it made a difference is not known.

ILLF8ED · Dec 25, 2013

This is exactly the way mine is also. I stopped worrying about it as the alternator charges very well.

wah64apache · Dec 25, 2013

pete.v said:
olChris said:

I

The spacer i have fitted are 1/2" long give or take .002

Click to expand...

Those are the right spacers.
I have gone to the hardware store and got 3/8" spacers to help locate the stator further over the rotor. Whether it made a difference is not known.

I took Pete's advice when I installed my 200w stator and went down to Ace Hardware and bought and installed shorter spacers to center the stator over the rotor. No issues, works like a charm. Good Luck,

Merry Christmas All, cheers, Frank

olChris · Dec 25, 2013

Thanks for the advice.. I will move the winding in close as possible by triming alt spacers (which will be governed available thread on alt studs) firstly, then spacing the rotor out if required...... After watching "cranksharft porn" lately pushing the rotor further away from C.O.G on the crankshaft might need to be minimalised..

toppy · Dec 26, 2013

If you do run out of thread on the studs run a die nut down them to extend thread length they can be bought off ebay for every little but don't get carbon steel types always go for high speed steel or better.
Or put one or more spring washes under nuts to fill gap between end of thread an stator. This will help to retain nuts an also keep the heavy rotor closer to journal bearing which if nothing else is good for your peace of mind when you have the throttle wind open.

olChris · Dec 26, 2013

Yep thanks Toppy, got it sorted today........ took 4ish mm off the spacers x 3 on the lathe... the thread remaining on the stud was sufficient to use flat washers and nuts... I spent more time chasing the 8-10 thou gap around the rotor. Got it to 8 and 10 thou gaps, which is good, i will wait and see what happen on final assembly.... Whilst playing around with rotor i felt some "end play" on the crank which is a bit of a concern... But thats for another day..

Keith1069 · Dec 26, 2013

Whilst playing around with rotor i felt some "end play" on the crank which is a bit of a concern... But thats for another day..

Unless its huge I wouldn't worry. Supposed to be 5 to 15 thou. At 15 its quite a clunk when tugged side to side.

olChris · Dec 26, 2013

OK, thanks for that Keith, that's an indicator to use so i might get the dial gauge out and ave a look out of curiousity....... I intend to strip the engine, so its extra info that maybe usefull.

gjr · Dec 26, 2013

I see that you have it sorted, but to check a few basics: Do you have about 2 7/8" (73mm) of crank shaft sticking out of the case ? Is the straight portion of the shaft 2" (51mm) long ? Is the distance from the backside of the inner primary cover to the top of the towers ( not the threads) that the stator mounts on 2 1/8" (54mm) ? Otherwise it appears that all the bits in the primary case are interchangeable between the years. Odd.

Greg

Matt Spencer · Dec 26, 2013

Have we told you how to line up the Crankshaft yet ?

:twisted: :shock:

:x :| :mrgreen:

olChris · Dec 26, 2013

Matt Spencer said:
Have we told you how to line up the Crankshaft yet ?

:twisted: :shock: :x :| :mrgreen:

... I might keep that a secret when i get there..

Alternator Spacer Issue ???????????

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