Alternative Electrical Connectors

Hi All,

I have been looking for an alternative connector to repair and shorten the the head light and ignition harness.

The reason for this is I do not have a Dunstall fairing where the headlight bucket is not used and to neaten up I am going to shorten the harness.

Has anybody had experience with this type of connector?

They are slightly larger in size to the originals but offer the added benefit being Waterproof.

The Youtube video demonstrates the ease of construction.

I am looking at the Grey variety. Which offer the 2,4 and 6 configurations required for that area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIR9-ZdG958

In addition to that I have had the frame powder coated and did not take into consideration Earthing points on the frame.

Maybe there are none? ???????


Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Ian

These appear to be a good choice. I would use them. The #16 contacts will serve for all circuits except main battery feed, or you could choose to use two contact points and run parallel wires to the battery.

Be sure to use a proper crimp tool....I have found that when using push-in contacts, an out of round crimp will be frustrating.

For earth points, you can either grind off a spot in an unobtrusive place on the frame, or run all earth wires back to the battery. I would consider two, three, or four into one bullet connectors to keep the earth wires to a manageable number at the main earth point.

Slick

Strida said:

In addition to that I have had the frame powder coated and did not take into consideration Earthing points on the frame.

Maybe there are none? ???????

Click to expand...

With the possible exception of the starter solenoid, the 'return' is through the red positive harness wiring, engine cases and the heavy starter positive cable.
There's normally a red return wire with a ring ring terminal in the battery compartment area of the MkIII harness intended for the solenoid return and the terminal can either be attached directly to the solenoid bracket bolt or be mounted onto the frame plate, if bolted to the plate, then this is the only area I think of that you might need to remove powder coat from the frame.

texasSlick said:

For earth points, you can either grind off a spot in an unobtrusive place on the frame, or run all earth wires back to the battery. I would consider two, three, or four into one bullet connectors to keep the earth wires to a manageable number at the main earth point.

Click to expand...

As this appears to be a straightforward modification to the existing harness, unless additional electrical items are being installed then all the necessary return wiring should be there.
As I believe the bike in question to be a MkIII, due to the presence of the (assumed operational) starter motor, the final stage of the return to battery(+) needs to be made only through the heavy starter positive cable and for this reason the harness connection is made to the engine (usually via a harness connection to the head steady) and not by any secondary harness return connected directly to the battery(+) even though the MkIII wiring diagram does show one, and the harness does have a positive battery terminal but it should not be connected to the battery unless the electric starter is not in use.

I have the system. it is some what expensive with the good crimp tool upwards of $100.00 and one connector depending on # of wires $5.00 to $15.00 the only real complaint I have is to make up a connector with say 1 power in and multi power out is a little more difficult. the only way I have found is to jumper from pin to pin on the outside. I wish they would come up with a dog bone insert to go inside the connector.

i was just in the electrical shop yesterday, heading down the same road, and the common option are "weatherpack" connects, the deutsch will be about 25% more expensive the the weatherpack i was told. to make either you need to get a specific crimping tool. the deutsch tool looked basic , the weatherpack really needs a ratcheting crimper

i will be replacing my entire harness and going to neg ground.

This worked fine for me:

Connectors
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-We ... 0FD98DVDA8

Crimper (I have had this tool for 20yrs)
http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-WT11 ... ts+crimper

Pete

I use standard Ancor snap plug crimp connectors. Some dielectric grease makes them waterproof if that's a concern. These are almost universally used for marine applications. Norton's are light duty compared to salt water marine use…

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/product ... lugs/nylon