all choked up

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alan hodge

alan hodge

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whats the corn-sensus on using chokes on amal 932s? mine are new with standard pressed in jet (not premiers) dont need choke on my triumph t120 but this is first winter for me with commando with amals instead of single mikuni bike started fine first kick or two sans chokes this summer with the new amals and when warm but recent coolish day took a few tickling kicking episodes when stone cold
 
I find the choke has no effect on starting, if its cold then I just tickle for longer. Where the choke works is as you drive away and the fuel level drops then the choke keeps the idle reliable for that 300 or 400 yards before the engine warms up. In the summer I get away with tickling only, cold weather then I use the choke.
 
On both the SS clone and the Titanic, choke was required for easy starts. Then '73 needed it on a little longer than the SS's '75 motor, for what reason I have no clue, other than the SS is jetted up a bit and the '73 was bone stock.
 
This is akin to an oil thread, Alan. You'll get wide and varied opinions.

My MKII 850 wants the choke on a cold start. Always has even from new. Once started I back the choke out and use the throttle to keep it running until it'll idle on its own. I have an adjustable throttle tensioner that lets me lock it down at 1500 rpm if needed. Others will tell you that they remove the choke altogether, but I think that's a function of ambient temperature. My brother's 71 750 never needed choke at all, so YMMV as they say.
 
ok depends on individual bike i guess will see what happens tomorrow temps supposed to drop to 50s in the morning
ya'll have a good one
 
Watching this thread closely as every year I wish I had put my chokes on.the 850 will start first kick after a good tickle (carbs not me) but it’s a job to keep it going, usually stops , another tickle and will start frosty mornings can be 3-4 goes ,warms me up before my ride .I think the chokes will help keep it running.waiting for the real winter then I will lay it up and this year put them on.
 
I remove the chokes; reduces the throttle effort and reduces the number of parts that can cause you problems when you least expect them.

When the pre-ride inspection is complete, clutch has been cleared I tickle the carbs until the overflow just reaches the paper towel I put under the bowels. I hop on, ignition on, throw my weight skyward, when gravity starts me in the down stroke I gently engage the k/s pawl then, near the bottom of the k/s stroke, open the throttle about 1/2 and rarely need to try again, the engine will come to life. I hold the RPM at about 1500 working the throttle, but not letting the slides hit the idle stops. I continue to work the throttle until the engine responds without complaint. I move the RPM up to about 2500 and check response; when it follows the twist grip and the head/barrel are too hot to touch, I try the idle. If it idles and responds to the throttle, off I go.

Anyone who cold-starts and drives off immediately isn't doing the engine any good.

Best.
 
Best way to keep wear down to a minimum after a cold start is to get low to moderate load into the engine to bring the temperature up quickly, so get underway but with gentle throttle.
 
I've removed the chokes on every British bike I've owned that had tickler-equipped carbs. If I have starting or running problems, I find the actual cause. Yes, idle and be iffy when cold but since I started installing Tri-Spark that has mostly gone away.

I've had a few people try to prove to me that their bike needed the choke. In every case when I started them, they did not. Why? People either crack or twist the throttle when starting. Don't touch the throttle! You just tickled to fill the pilot circuit and lightly flood the engine - opening the throttle defeats that. You go from rich to very lean. The other why is people turning the choke lever halfway and thinking they are doing something - they are not.
 
The choke does not effect the pilot circuit, it blocks the main Venturi but not the pilot circuit, the flooding of the float chamber does affect the pilot circuit but as soon as the engine starts the float chamber petrol level begins to drop, fine in warm climates and you can't forget like leaving the choke on too long. In cold weather however you have two choices, tickle the carb again or use the choke.
 
I have had Commandos since the mid 80s, in Seattle and here in Auckland. Never had or needed a choke.
 
ludwig said:
That is precisely what I have been doing all my life, and will keep doing.
Flood the carbs, kickstart and ride off while there is still some excess fuel in the carbs.
Click to expand...
I have also always ridden off straight away
Never really seen the point of sitting there revving the engine or even worse letting it idle
 
was about 49-50 degrees here this morning after a good tickle or two and about 4 kicks bike fired right up me no ride if colder than that might forego putting the chokes in
 
TBH you have nothing to lose by installing them, no? Unless you have to purchase the parts, of course.
At least then you have the option to choke or not to choke (that is the question... etc etc...)
 
A mate of mine that is an extreme high mileage rider maintains that concentrics last longer with the choke slides fitted
His theory is the loose weight of the sprung loaded slide takes some the resonance out of the slide and some of the wear
 
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