A P Racing Callipers - Disk pad rattle (2007)

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Mar 11, 2006
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Has anyone else experienced or solved this problem?

I fitted my APR calliper about 12 months ago as I did not feel the original Lockheed unit was up to serious riding in todays traffic. It just hadn't got the stopping power I wanted or was used to. Now the caliper did improve the braking a great deal but I'm still going for a RGM master cylinder re-sleeve to try to get some more stopping power in a month or so.

Sorry I'm drifting off topic. The problem is the rattling pads. I've tried lock wiring the split pins, bending the ends back on the pins to get them to lock in really tight, applying loads of copper grease on the back of the pads but can I stop them rattling - no. It seems to me that they miss the spring clip you would find on a modern bike fitted between the pins and the tops of the pads to stop this very problem?

I think the movement and rattle comes from the difference in the diameter of the split pin to the hole in the pads which is a larger diameter. It is not possible to fit larger split pins to reduce this play between the pin and pad.

Has anyone found a solution to cure this rattle which sends me silly? It's 100% the disk pads causing the rattling as applying very light pressure on the front brake lever stops the rattle instantly.

The only other solution I've found is to keep the throttle wound on so you can't hear the rattle over the wind/exhaust noise which is great but not always an option on UK roads :lol:
 
I have experienced the same problem with my T160 Trident that has a twin front disc kit fitted that used two original cast iron Lockheed Triumph calipers, and having two of them clicking away is a whole lot worse, I recently replaced the two iron calipers with Grimeca alloy ones, they still click a bit, but nowhere near as bad.

I've heard this a fairly common problem with the Lockheed calipers and there has been some suggestions about skimming the disc or putting a small coil spring from a ball-point pen on one split pin (or both?) between the pads to apply light pressure to stop the rattle?
(actually that gives me an idea, as I now have two spare BMW K series alternator brush springs that look as if they were made for the job? I might try them on the Grimecas?).

I think the main reason why the pads rattle is because they are such a slack fit in the caliper (I could slide a hacksaw blade between the ends of the pads and the old cast iron caliper bodies, but there was no apparent wear in the bodies, if the pads weren't such a loose fit then they probably wouldn't rattle so badly.


I have also noticed that some of the Lockheed pads (not necessarily Lockheed manufactured ones) can vary in size lengthwise, again this cannot be helping matters.
 
My mate had the same problem he nipped into Halfords and hunted out a pair of spring clips that fit,and as you suggest found the solution. Trev works shifts so it could be a day or two before I can ask him what type he used. It wouldn't hurt to have a look yourself.
Cash
 
I have an RGM setup on my MK111 and when I stop at the traffic lights and it winds down to tickover speed I get a helluva rattle from my front end untill I apply the brake, then it dissapears.
I don't yet have a solution, but I least now I think I know what the prob is.
Cheers for the post Mike :D :D :D
 
A simple solution that I have heard of, but not tried myself, is to apply some silicone sealer to the back of the pads. This will give sufficient adhesion to the pistons and stop the rattle.
 
I got rid of the old brake set up as it was rubbish.

Replaced it with a 13" fully floating disc with a Grimcea caliper and a Triumph lever and master cylinder - stops with two fingers.

I ahd the nosie problem as the split pins were to small and caused the rattle when the brake was applied.

I bought larger split pins and filed them down to fit. As they are now a nice tight fit the nosie has diassapated.
 
Peteuk001 said:
I bought larger split pins and filed them down to fit. As they are now a nice tight fit the nosie has diassapated.

Unfortunately Pete thats not the problem I have so the solution isn't so simple. The split pins are a tight fit in the caliper - they are loose in the holes in the disk pads. So I don't have the option to use a larger split pins.

I'm now going down the line of trying to find some stainless steel compression springs to fit over the split pins when they are fitted. These should keep the pads pushed back and hopefully stop the rattle.

Just trying to source them. I may have to wait for the autumn Stafford Classic Bike Show in a couple of months where I should be able to find some with a bit of luck
 
Well got some compression springs today and fitted one over each split pin and the rattle has gone away at last. Nice after 12 months of annoyance.

If anyone is interested I used 4.5mm internal diameter springs with a 20mm free length that compress down to 10mm. Sorry not certain of the wire gauge or the weight nedded to fully compress them as I picked them by looking at samples at a local spring manufacturer

The only thing I'll have to keep an eye on is as the pads wear down that the thickess of the two pads and the disk do not get thinner than the compressed spring length or the result will be lack of brakes :!:
 
Mike,
Just a little concern, will/can the springs push the pads and pistons back cos if they do you might run out of lever travel at the wrong time.
Still haven't been able to contact my mate, he used the over clips used by many other manufacturers.

Cash
 
cash said:
Mike,
Just a little concern, will/can the springs push the pads and pistons back cos if they do you might run out of lever travel at the wrong time.
Still haven't been able to contact my mate, he used the over clips used by many other manufacturers.

Cash

Hi Cash - The springs are just stong enough to hold the pads back to stop the rattle but they do not push the pistons back, but I see where you are coming from. A good point if anyone else is following this thread.

I would appeciate the info on the clips if you can get it. I had a look at the AP Racing web site and they do not list clips for these calipers, but they list an option to have anti push-back springs fitted as part of the manufacture. I presume this is to prevent the pistons pushing back if you get a good tank slapper but would not necessarily stop pad rattle.

I would prefer to fit clips as I think this is probably the best solution as there would be no need to watch out for the springs reaching their compression limit as the pads wear down
 
I see this thread is pretty old but if anyone's still reading... my question is simply whether the noise represents an actual potential problem or not? I don't mind the noise, I'm just worried it means something's wrong???
 
Headfullofsnakes said:
I see this thread is pretty old but if anyone's still reading... my question is simply whether the noise represents an actual potential problem or not? I don't mind the noise, I'm just worried it means something's wrong???

Nothing is wrong. These calipers are used on hundreds of race bikes with no problems. I have four of them, I am sure they do rattle, most likely when at idle on a Commando, they also click as the pads move back and forward in the caliper, whichI am most likley to notice when wheeling the bikes around with no helmet on or ear plugs in....

Some are sensitive to rattles and clicks. The effort anyone goes to to eliminate them is their choice, others simply wear ear plugs as a matter of course on don't notice the noise in the first place.

I am sure it would help if the person who found which model of bike has a spring clip that solves the issue for the worriers amongst us would identify it. It is a better engineered 'solution' than the compression coil springs as it will also stop the clicking back and forward.

If the part was available at Halfords a mainstream Japanese sports bike seems most likely....

My guess is something like the spring plate from a GSXR750 SRAD rear brake!
 
I had trouble to put in new disc pads on my SV650 d/t their falling together to slip over rotor so got some disc brake pad glue, organe tacky stuff, that held them to the caliper pads to install easy and retract with claiper seals off rotor better and no loose rattle nor heat transfer issue. On Commando with factory thicker rotor a small plastic tube or twig slipped between them works well for me. Floating mount rotors then to rattle on their loose mounts some if not appling pad pressure.
 
Headfullofsnakes said:
I see this thread is pretty old but if anyone's still reading... my question is simply whether the noise represents an actual potential problem or not? I don't mind the noise, I'm just worried it means something's wrong???

Mine do it. The red disk brake quiet that comes in a tube helps quiet them some.
 
As stated further up the thread, smear some silicone onto the back of the brake pads, re- fit the pads and apply the brake hard, leave for a while, and next time you go for a ride, the noise / rattle will be gone. It worked for me. :D
The silicone holds the pads onto the caliper pistons and they can't rattle about.
 
As stated further up the thread, smear some silicone onto the back of the brake pads, re- fit the pads and apply the brake hard, leave for a while, and next time you go for a ride, the noise / rattle will be gone. It worked for me. :D
The silicone holds the pads onto the caliper pistons and they can't rattle about.
I know this is an old thread but pad rattle has been driving me crazy… I was sceptical about the silicone solution but it works 100%, I applied the silicone to the back of my cleaned brake pads, popped them in and with a piece of rubber banding held the front brake on lightly for a a couple of hours and hey presto rattle gone. That was about 5/600 miles ago and still no more pad rattle.

Dave
 
I know this is an old thread but pad rattle has been driving me crazy… I was sceptical about the silicone solution but it works 100%, I applied the silicone to the back of my cleaned brake pads, popped them in and with a piece of rubber banding held the front brake on lightly for a a couple of hours and hey presto rattle gone. That was about 5/600 miles ago and still no more pad rattle.

Dave
high temp. silicone is easy to get, probably the better option.
 
high temp. silicone is easy to get, probably the better option.
I used silicone gasket sealant as that was height temp and in my toolbox, so far so good after 500+ miles. What do you recommend?

Dave
 
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