75 MKIII Rebuild/Upgrade

Slow progress is better than no progress. Bike is on the rack and slowly getting the bits and pieces put back on. I have the Battery Tray and Horn installed. I will add the aux power receptacle next.

Unless someone recommends otherwise, I plan on installing the motor next to facilitate running new wire. This will be a complete rewire to negative ground.
Chandelier was off, will work on lighting for next shooting.

A little bit further down the road. The engine, horn, oil filter mount and a few other assorted brackets are in.
I will target the starter and alternator next and get after the negative ground wiring work.
Should be fun.
All you aviation guys go ahead and critic my safety wire work. Its been many years since I did that sort to thing

Saber13 said:

Slow progress is better than no progress. Bike is on the rack and slowly getting the bits and pieces put back on. I have the Battery Tray and Horn installed. I will add the aux power receptacle next.

Unless someone recommends otherwise, I plan on installing the motor next to facilitate running new wire. This will be a complete rewire to negative ground.View attachment 3963 View attachment 3964 View attachment 3965
Chandelier was off, will work on lighting for next shooting.

Click to expand...

LH shock is upside down.

Correct, both are coming back off. Thanks

i did the same and then had to pull the engine to get the gearbox in on my 73, so i'd suggest checking with a 75 know-it-all or you may have to back pedal a bunch...

I have had the gearbox in and out 3 times. A complex combination of turns, but manageable. I tried it before deciding to go ahead and drop the engine in. I still have to open the GB and check the bearings. Seems a littler backwards, but I do what I can when I am able. Will have to give the back a couple days rest after motor installation.

slow progress is better than no progress. Doctors have been making progress with me the last couple weeks and I have been able to put as much as 4 hours a day on the bike. My goal is to get her done in time to put a couple hundred miles on the bike and my spine before Barber's and adjust my plans accordingly. I live 193 miles almost straight south of Barber's and I will have the bike there this year regardless!

The first photo is a wide angle of the electronics bay. The Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse block is mounted on a hinged plated that will swing shut. The fuse block will then be protected by the side cover. I am fabricated an bracket similar the one offered by OldBrits for MKIIIs for side panel attachment when the plastic airbox is removed. I will use K&N. My bracket will hold the side panel and the fuse block.

The second shot shows a 4x6 bracket I made to mount the Podtronics voltage regulator. I am thinking about moving the starter solenoid to the front side of this bracket. I will mount some of the relays next to the Podtronics. I am still going will Negative Ground and will provide updated wiring diagrams as I complete and test a circuit.

Getting serious about rewiring from switch cluster all the way to the end.

Moving right along,,,, seems like I have a mile of color or should I say colour coded wire in the last couple days. Eastern Beaver 8 slot fuse box is mounted on the left side behind the panel. It is hinged at the battery mount and swings up out of the way for the side panel. Not shown, but it will secure to a bracket similar to the one offered by Old Brits for securing the panel when you have removed the big plastic intake. I will be using K&N air filters. The fuse panel has 2 unswitched and 6 switched circuits, all will be used.

Looking from the left side, is an aluminum bracket bolted to the intake mounts on the battery tray. On that bracket I have the Podtronics and 4 relays, 1-Horn Relay, 2-Headlamp Relays, 1-Other Lighting. The relay for activating the switched circuit is mounted next to the fuse box. The Turn Signal blinker is currently just hanging to the back of the battery area. It will be mounted on the rear fender bolt.

Horn, Turn Signals, and Turn annunciator have all been function tested ok. Think I will work on the Headlamp circuit tomorrow. Saving mounting brakes and wheels till this weekend when I have some strong backed help.

This a negative ground system with all LEDs. I will provide the complete wiring diagram when all circuits have been successfully tested.

Nice wiring touches. I haven't woven a wiring loom in years! Learned how in the Navy and did it on all my bikes back in the 80s. Then, I got into restoring, and that meant original, so...

Saber,

Nice wiring job. Looks like you enjoy doing that stuff so I thought you might like these Panasonic relays. They are low profile and snap in bases are available. They have a hole on the top which makes them easy to zip tie or bolt onto anything.



One more idea, when I installed a Shindengen on a heat sink/bracket I ran the back on a sheet of sandpaper to flatten it out and then applied thermal paste for a better thermal connection. If I ever have my Podtronics off I will do the same. Looking forward to seeing your bike together and running.
Pete

Thanks Pete, I thought I had past my good idea cut off date. Not so, I have to get some of the Panasonic relays! They make a real clean compact package. I will also do the thermal paste before I button everything up.

Chuck

Chuck,

I buy from this vendor.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

Fair prices and easy to deal with and he has a lot of different stuff on his web site. He will respond to technical questions quickly.
If you buy bases from him make sure you keep the terminal ends with the bases. Sometimes he switches suppliers and the terminals need to match the base.

Pete

Starting to look more like a Norton every day.
All circuits complete except Headlamp and tail light.
Wheels balanced and installed. Working on the brake system. I have the Madass front MC mode ready for installation. I have given up on stainless steel brake lines. SS is just too fricking hard to flare. Will use Nickel Copper for hard lines and braided SS for flexible lines.
If you notice the Ziplock bags hanging in various places, each one has a group number from the parts manual. Inside parts are bagged in smaller bags with Group # and Part #. Only way I can keep from losing stuff.
I may finish the Headlamp wiring with a standard bulb in order to functional check and finish the wiring diagram.
I'm slow, but I will get it finished.

Looks great.