1973 850 commando....almost done....

Well its been 14 months since I dropped off the interstate at a friends to "get it runnin"..and he just sent me a video of the first start up in 20+ years...Just needs to fine tune it...its an original 9,000 mile bike(know original owner) that has had a mechanical refurb..carbs,fluids,exhaust flange work,rebuilt brake systems,relined tank,petcocks, fuel lines,new oem airbox,battery,..etc..This bike was new for him to work on and there was some trial and error...what positive ground?...handlebar controls mixed up??After all the work it was 3 kicks and it was alive!Any word of wisdom moving forward?You guys have really helped a newbie here....

Wisdom? Shirley, you jest!

I went through a similar 73 750 scenario a few years back so here's what I did. After the first good run in I changed the oil. Maybe a 25 mile spurt. Then another 50 mile ride and changed again. The first two changes I used Valvoline 20-50 racing oil. Less expensive than what I use day to day. One more 50 mile ride and another oil change now putting in the good stuff. Primary and tranny included (Not going to mention what the "good stuff" is as we don't want another oil thread) After letting it cool down overnight I checked all of the fasteners including the head bolts and carb manifold, set the valves, checked the timing, synced the carbs and it was good to go. Have fun

Ok..its been on a few 2-3 mile trial runs..tires bad so wont go too far/fast....he is still getting the starting sequence down...says if it goes past 6 kicks your done...there is a small tube that leaks about a nickel of oil ..seems to go right on the chain..is that normal?...one amal is a bit touchy on the idle...comments?

That's the factory drip oiler for the chain. It connects up at the oil tank. It's a bit messy, and most of the owners I know pinch it off or block it, and just use aerosol chain lube regularly.

Ken

No need to change the oil that much on a new motor if new rings put in just cheap oil for the first 500 miles then change oil and filter with good oil of your choose, as for the chain oiler just disconect it or block it off, after 500 miles redo your valves and check everything over to make sure everything is right and then just enjoy it, do the maintenance when needed, get new tyres if they are old remember not much rubber is on the road and hard old tyres are not a good. thing to have your life is more important than to save a few $$$$.

Ashley

If it really takes 6 or more kicks to start, there's more fiddling to do.
Have you mechanically cleaned out the idle (pilot) jets? Strobed the timing?

Keso, to your knowledge base add considering changing to a modern digital type electronic ignition primarily to get rid of the possibility of point/auto advance problems, also consider converting to Mark3 type threaded ISO adjustors, did your builder check and re shim no doubt loose by now ISOs?
Consider throwing away the ancient rubber mounted head steady and putting a Dave Taylor rod type
for much improved handling doing away with the head/motor falling off to the side when leaned, etc
Consider mailing your hubs off to Buchanon's in CA and having sent back beautiful new wider rims and spokes 19 front, 18 rear built to specs to fit modern Avon Road Runner tires for again nicely improved handling. Expensive suggestion yes, over $1K but transformative. Consider sleeving disk brake master cylinder for much improved braking feel or better yet get a CNW complete brembo disc system.
Lots of ideas when you have the time and money sir !

Mr rick..who is this Shirley you talk about!!!......for carbs..they we ultrasonic cleaned and synced..strobed the timing?...don't know about that..he did clean the old points...as for isos..I am sure they were not serviced...master cyl was rebuilt factory..and tires I will stay with 19" ans get a pair of new tires..I will most likely only ride it ocassionally unless I fall in love with it....so I starting sequence...fuel on,tickle carbs ..Choke?...kick with 1/4 throttle...

I believe (and have no evidence) that ultrasonic cleaning will not necessarily remove the gunk from the idle jets. One might shd get a pc of .016" wire, or a longer-than-jobber-length #78 drill bit (and a way to chuck them up so you can twist them) and poke it into the jet after removing the adjust screw, keeping track of how many turns so it goes back to the same place.
Master cylinder as stock has a poor ratio, can be improved with sleeve kit or replacement.
Strobing the timing is pretty much the only way I know to see if the points (or the [much better than worn-out points] EI systems) are working properly. But to have any confidence in the timing plate (under a plug in the outer primary case), one must first check the accuracy of the marks themselves with a piston stop and degree wheel.

I'm sure the starting sequence is a personal thing, but here's mine:
Tennis shoes off and boots on, laced tight
Machine up on the center stand
Fuel on and tickle both sides till I see fuel
Choke on (cable loose) only if cold
Lazy kick once to suck some fuel vapor into the lungs
Key on, throttle barely open, prod the KS lever till it bumps back at a good kick angle
Send a prayer to the god of broken ankles, throw my ass up off the seat, and kick down like hell. If you weigh more than 9.5 stone, or have less than maximum compression, that last bit might be considered extreme..

When she fires: Hand or friction stop on throttle to keep the revs up, and pull choke off after a few seconds

Unless you fall in love? I fell in love before mine wd start, run, or stop, Hope you do the same.
Nothing like a sweet runner, and endless opportunities for "improvement".

As stated above ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs will not clean the pilot jet bushes,
Also it could need new needle jets

so close, & yet so far lol