1972 NORTON COMMANDO rebirth....

so I'm new to this forum but I'm not new to motorcycles..i was on the lookout for about 4years.



i finally found a original owner bike a 1972 commando..it was all there..had some minor mods
it was taken care of by a english gentleman now that he is old he wanted to sell some of his stuff
and the Commando was for sale..funny thing was it was going to be between me another guy who also wanted the bike
the owner decided to allow a mini bidding WAR.the highest bid gets the motorcycle..but i lucked out the other guy that wanted
the motorcycle said..no way and he didn't want to bid for a motorcycle.so i went and picked it up a few days later!!
i need input as to how or what level i should fix the bike?
its all there just anything old and rubber like is dried up..so I'm in the process of changing some small things just to hear the motor
and determine my next step..
any help would be welcome or info as to what in getting into..

Welcome to the forum, your definitely in good hands here.
Interesting gas tank, Ive never seen one like that.

Interesting can-thingys behind the motor too.

I think that is a Gus Kuhn tank http://gftpstore.com/Norton-Fuel-Tank-NORFTB-NORFTB.htm

First thing I wd do, is ask the PO what is going on with those canisters. If they are just compressors feeding the horns up front, they can just be removed, or cleaned up if you love them. Second thing is to get the parts book and the shop manual, so you can see what was there originally. And what was not. Find your serial numbers: frame, engine, gearbox, so you have an idea of what to expect in the books. After 4 years looking around, you must have some idea of what these bikes are all about.
Obviously all the fluids must be changed, and the electrics confirmed to work, bearings checked, etc.
Unless you saw it running lately, I'd probably not be in a hurry to hear the motor in action. Is the lubrication system ready to provide oil pressure?
If you get it going, you'll have to get it stopped. Do the brakes even work? Has the Portugese layshaft bearing in the gearbox been replaced? Pretty much mandatory.
This forum can be a great resource, when specific questions are formulated.
As for what level to take it to? Only you and your wallet can answer that one. The possibilities are virtually endless. You can spend over $400 just replacing the head steady!
More fundamental in my own case turned out to be the direction to take. Some of these guys have gorgeous rebuilds that go like hell and shine from every surface. I want mine to run right and show its age but without even a hint of rust, and I have made changes that are not "correct" for my bike, just to make it the way I like it. Others are consumed with "stock" configuration, or make improvements that are not visible, such as electronic ignition. All your call.
Looks like a wonderful project. Congrats on a nice find!

Any idea where I can get a manual for parts and service repair also

Online

http://rocbo.net/technique/norton_workshop/004.html


technical-information-how-post-photos-t2357.html


OR buy from Andover.

My suggestion is when you start doing repairs ask opinions on everything you do, well at least most everything. There are things I did on my rebuild I wish I would have done, I found out after the fact and the bike was up and running. Do a lot of search on this site to get as much info as possible.

I saw that bike too. Glad someone localized got it. Where are you from by the way? I would gladly recommend Rick Harrot from HWY CYCLES 27 Dundas Street EAST 200 feet down from Clappisons Corners.

Dave

If you are located in Northern California then some resources are Raber's parts, Fair Spairs and Old Britts to name a few. Commando Specialties on the east coast is popular as well.
Be sure to read (most of) Fred's technical articles on his Old Britts web page. You can't beat the transition rebuild article and lots of build tolerances called out.

Great find, and do let us know what the heck those cans are for. Beer?

Oops. Why did I think you were in California. Anyway, read Fred's articles.

Visiting Rick Harrit is a hoot. He's a poet and will recite if it interests you. The shop is jammed with cool British junk and the floor is pounded into the earth with many inclusions of dropped nuts and washers. Good luck with your restore.

today i took the carbs out...WTF..british bikes are weird..im comparing to japanese and italian bikes ive worked on
man..oh man..the allen bolts that go to the head are a pain in the ass..to remove let alone access..
i see the throttle cables are old and worn ..what can i expect to pay for a new cable SET?
tommorow at work im going to clean the carbs and make sure nothing looks worn or damaged
any body know where a can see images of the hoses routing etc..
some things are not routed correct..im trying to make it run before the end of the season
listen to the motor then decide on my LEVEL of resto..

First piece of advice - get a cheap allen wrench and cut or grind about 2/3's of the short leg off. Makes it easier to get the allen bolts in and out. Part of every C'do owners tool kit.

Here's a tip I posted earlier this year, with regard to those inner carb mounting cap screws:
I became so frustrated working those inner allen-head bolts that I drilled 2 holes in the frame plate just outside the big grommet area, bought a Bondhus 03111 t-handle wrench (looks like the tool number is now 13111) and now have a straight shot to those 2 devilishly-placed fasteners. Cut about 5/8" off one of the "T" handles to get some rotation clearing the frame top tube, and feel much better every time I go there.
The cut-off wrench suggested by htown16 is what you need for the outers, yes.
I found my shop manual and parts book (and a lot of other good stuff) on eBay.
Depending on how many miles are on the carbs, and how much money you wanna spend, it may prove smart to just buy new carbs. I wasted a lot of time, and a little money, re-building mine, finally gave up. The slides and bodies are both some kind of pot metal, and wear each other out easily, making the tuning process VERY tedious, if not impossible, cause you cannot control the mixture properly. I've heard also that they can stick in the open position, if they are really worn out. That wouldn't be fun.
Looks like this fellow has good prices: http://www.gregmarsh.com/MC/AmalCarbs.aspx

Torontonian said:

Visiting Rick Harrit is a hoot. He's a poet and will recite if it interests you. The shop is jammed with cool British junk and the floor is pounded into the earth with many inclusions of dropped nuts and washers. Good luck with your restore.

Click to expand...

im in scarborough ..what model are riding?

Advice would be to not try and start......but if you really want to .....change the oil and filter. Pull the sump plug and sump filter. Kick the bike over with no gas in the carbs until you get oil coming out of the banjo oil feeds going into the head (crack one fitting open). Oil the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Check the valve clearances too.

Most certainly the carbs will need a complete cleaning before she will start. Also if that tank is fiberglass, any gas you put into it will cause it to degrade and leak......flowing liquidized fiberglass to pass through the engine......say goodbye to the rings.

Not trying to be a jerk. This is what I would do if I were going to start it for the first time. If you want to part with the tank let me know via pm and I would love to buy for a wall hanger.

Dave

Located in Niagara region.

I agree with island dave, it always seems to me that you risk causing further damage to an engine in the hurry to get it running. There is more to be learnt removing the head for a look-see etc.

There are no short cuts in a project like this. Seriously. You need to be prepared to spend money, and time, on this. But the process is fun and educational and the end result is well worth it.

If that puts you off, you're better off learning it now rather than later!

some more progress I've been busy at work and don't have the time each day the carbs came out perfect cleaned all
passages inside and blew out any blocked holes etc...
uh dont laugh about the chain..im putting a new one just wanted to see if it would clean up