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1969 T120 issues

Discussion in 'Triumph (Classic)' started by chasbmw, Feb 21, 2019.

  1. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
    Adjusting the tappers on my 1969 T120 for the first time today......bit of a PIA getting the inlets “to a gnats whisker”. Decided to buy the Lazer tappet adjuster tool as might make the process of tightening down AND retaining adjustment a bit more consistent.

    Any tips on adjusting the TLS front brake? It’s pre conical hub, but currently not very effective.

    Thanks all.

    Charles
     
  2. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Check to ensure your drum is clean and not glazed, same with the brake shoes.

    Once that is all good, adjust them to the point that they JUST start to touch when you spin the wheel (on the centerstand).

    As for the valve adjustment, I use the "popsicle sticks"...
    feelers.JPG
     
  3. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
    Thanks grandpaul

    What size is the brake plate securing nut?

    Looks like I will need to find either a suitable ring spanner or a box spanner
     
  4. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    It's a big sucker. I have a giant crescent wrench that I use to remove them. So for me, the size is "adjustable". hee hee
     
  5. Triton Thrasher

    Triton Thrasher

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2009
    It’s easier and probably safer to set the inlet valve clearances to 4 thou.
    1/8th of a turn on the adjuster, from zero clearance is near enough.

    American importers sent out a service note advising 4 thou inlets, 6 thou exhausts.
     
  6. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
    I measure that nut as being 1 1/2” across the flats and my Crescent wrench doesn’t have enough room to get a proper grip......
     
  7. kommando

    kommando

    Joined:
    May 7, 2005
    There is a special long reach socket for that nut that clears the spindle, hammer and punch are the bodgers alternative.
     
  8. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
    Can anyone confirm size of the nut, it looks to me to be 1 1/8” across the flats, seem to be various deep sockets available from the usual sources
     
  9. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    I bought a large dual box-end spanner at an auto parts place (Pep Boys), they are in the section of trailer hitches, etc.
     
  10. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
    In the end I found a suitable box spanner made by Melco......

    Am currently engaged in mission creep.

    Head race bearings are toast so forks are off the bike, still got to find a way to remove rusted stanctions
    from the bottom yoke, I’ve tried using a screwdriver to prise apart the yoke but no joy yet, heat might help.

    The none working parts of the stanctions are rusted, I can’t see what these means in terms of the working areas, but I can see that I might be heading for a fork rebuild.

    Problem is the bike is a time warp bike, hasn’t been restored, but has been very well kept so I should do my best at keeping it looking the same. [​IMG]
     
  11. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    After loosening off the pinch bolts, I tap a stubby screwdriver in the slot in the yoke, then pop the stanchions with a rubber mallet or a hammer buffered with a section of 2x4 pine.
     
  12. Dellis

    Dellis VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2018
    You need to adjust the brake arm connecting rod so both shoes contact at the same time. To do this put a 9/16" spanner on each lever nut and rotate clockwise to push the shoes up against the drum then adjust the link so that the pin on either end aligns with the hole in the brake arm aligns with the hole in the rod.

    My ‘69 TR6 with this brake was good enough to lock the front wheel! I have a ‘69 Bonnie and although quite a good stopper it isn’t as good as the one on my TR6.

    Dave
     
  13. lazyeye6

    lazyeye6

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2014
    The TLS front brake on my '70 TR6R is very effective, much better than my Norton Commando with disk brake and sleeved
    master cylinder. Yes, rotate the lever nuts until the shoes are each contacting the drum and then lengthen or shorten the
    rod link accordingly to match the levers. If this doesn't work for you take it apart and see if shoes need replacement or
    hub skimmed.

    http://www.vintagebrake.com
     
  14. Dellis

    Dellis VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2018
    They do take a bit of bedding in which is worth considering if the shoes are new.

    Dave
     
  15. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
    Making progress, bought some OEM shoes at VMCC, so shoes now fitted, awaiting wheel bearings, mission creep has set in so fork stantions, bushes, seals and head races....all seems to be going together OK

    Thanks for your help

    Charles
     
  16. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Warning: keep that mission creep in check or you’ll be into a ground up resto before you know it.

    Don’t ask me how I know....
     
  17. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011

    It’s an original bike and there are not many left in good running condition......so a bit of paint touch up with hammerite!
     
  18. chasbmw

    chasbmw

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2011
  19. Dellis

    Dellis VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2018

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