1969 T120 issues

Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
Adjusting the tappers on my 1969 T120 for the first time today......bit of a PIA getting the inlets “to a gnats whisker”. Decided to buy the Lazer tappet adjuster tool as might make the process of tightening down AND retaining adjustment a bit more consistent.

Any tips on adjusting the TLS front brake? It’s pre conical hub, but currently not very effective.

Thanks all.

Charles
 

grandpaul

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
11,064
Country flag
Check to ensure your drum is clean and not glazed, same with the brake shoes.

Once that is all good, adjust them to the point that they JUST start to touch when you spin the wheel (on the centerstand).

As for the valve adjustment, I use the "popsicle sticks"...
feelers.JPG
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
Thanks grandpaul

What size is the brake plate securing nut?

Looks like I will need to find either a suitable ring spanner or a box spanner
 

grandpaul

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
11,064
Country flag
It's a big sucker. I have a giant crescent wrench that I use to remove them. So for me, the size is "adjustable". hee hee
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
2,024
Country flag
It’s easier and probably safer to set the inlet valve clearances to 4 thou.
1/8th of a turn on the adjuster, from zero clearance is near enough.

American importers sent out a service note advising 4 thou inlets, 6 thou exhausts.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
I measure that nut as being 1 1/2” across the flats and my Crescent wrench doesn’t have enough room to get a proper grip......
 
Joined
May 7, 2005
Messages
4,274
Country flag
There is a special long reach socket for that nut that clears the spindle, hammer and punch are the bodgers alternative.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
Can anyone confirm size of the nut, it looks to me to be 1 1/8” across the flats, seem to be various deep sockets available from the usual sources
 

grandpaul

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
11,064
Country flag
I bought a large dual box-end spanner at an auto parts place (Pep Boys), they are in the section of trailer hitches, etc.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
In the end I found a suitable box spanner made by Melco......

Am currently engaged in mission creep.

Head race bearings are toast so forks are off the bike, still got to find a way to remove rusted stanctions
from the bottom yoke, I’ve tried using a screwdriver to prise apart the yoke but no joy yet, heat might help.

The none working parts of the stanctions are rusted, I can’t see what these means in terms of the working areas, but I can see that I might be heading for a fork rebuild.

Problem is the bike is a time warp bike, hasn’t been restored, but has been very well kept so I should do my best at keeping it looking the same.
 

grandpaul

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
11,064
Country flag
After loosening off the pinch bolts, I tap a stubby screwdriver in the slot in the yoke, then pop the stanchions with a rubber mallet or a hammer buffered with a section of 2x4 pine.
 

Dellis

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jul 22, 2018
Messages
185
Country flag
Adjusting the tappers on my 1969 T120 for the first time today......bit of a PIA getting the inlets “to a gnats whisker”. Decided to buy the Lazer tappet adjuster tool as might make the process of tightening down AND retaining adjustment a bit more consistent.

Any tips on adjusting the TLS front brake? It’s pre conical hub, but currently not very effective.

Thanks all.

Charles
You need to adjust the brake arm connecting rod so both shoes contact at the same time. To do this put a 9/16" spanner on each lever nut and rotate clockwise to push the shoes up against the drum then adjust the link so that the pin on either end aligns with the hole in the brake arm aligns with the hole in the rod.

My ‘69 TR6 with this brake was good enough to lock the front wheel! I have a ‘69 Bonnie and although quite a good stopper it isn’t as good as the one on my TR6.

Dave
 

lazyeye6

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
834
Country flag
The TLS front brake on my '70 TR6R is very effective, much better than my Norton Commando with disk brake and sleeved
master cylinder. Yes, rotate the lever nuts until the shoes are each contacting the drum and then lengthen or shorten the
rod link accordingly to match the levers. If this doesn't work for you take it apart and see if shoes need replacement or
hub skimmed.

http://www.vintagebrake.com
 

Dellis

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jul 22, 2018
Messages
185
Country flag
You need to adjust the brake arm connecting rod so both shoes contact at the same time. To do this put a 9/16" spanner on each lever nut and rotate clockwise to push the shoes up against the drum then adjust the link so that the pin on either end aligns with the hole in the brake arm aligns with the hole in the rod.

My ‘69 TR6 with this brake was good enough to lock the front wheel! I have a ‘69 Bonnie and although quite a good stopper it isn’t as good as the one on my TR6.

Dave
They do take a bit of bedding in which is worth considering if the shoes are new.

Dave
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
Making progress, bought some OEM shoes at VMCC, so shoes now fitted, awaiting wheel bearings, mission creep has set in so fork stantions, bushes, seals and head races....all seems to be going together OK

Thanks for your help

Charles
 

Fast Eddie

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
12,348
Country flag
Warning: keep that mission creep in check or you’ll be into a ground up resto before you know it.

Don’t ask me how I know....
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
413
Country flag
Warning: keep that mission creep in check or you’ll be into a ground up resto before you know it.

Don’t ask me how I know....

It’s an original bike and there are not many left in good running condition......so a bit of paint touch up with hammerite!
 

Top