So largely do to worsening problems with my right knee I need to make my 68 BSA 441 Shooting Star as easy to start as possible. I'm want to try a electronic ignition unit & a pal said he had used some hotter coil in his that made a big differance, maybe it was a Dynacoil but I really don't remember what he said. Now because I really don't know much about what to do to achieve my goals my question to all you gental women & men is what would be the best way to go about this?? What EI should I use, should I try a modern coil ? and please don't go into anything about a mikuni. I am planning on rebuilding the Amal but I won't change to a modern carb. Thanks, Glenn.

The best way to make any BSA single easier to start is to fit a decompressor.

My brother rode one just like that for years. Maybe he'll offer some advice.

I do know that proper use of the compression lever will allow a 105 lb. little sister to start one so you might have a chance.

If it has a decompressor and is hard to start then an Electrex ignition and modern carb will make things much better as long as its ok mechanically.

Yes it has a decomp lever & I have the routine down well, this bike when in good tune will start first or second kick but that means constant maintanance so what I'm thinking is a EI and better coil will make it fire better & be less maintanance. I won't lower the compression cuz I'm not willing to part with the much loved THUMP THUMP THUMP it has. Really what I need to know is if anyone has fitted a EI to thier singles & what unit works best? Boyer? I know they make one that will work but what about the others, Tri-Spark? Do they make a EI for singles? and should I get a solid state rectifier/Regulator & take off the Zienor diode??? Someone must be running EI's on thier Goldstars or B50's any sugestions?

B50s were originally notoriously difficult starters on points. The first B50 I owned had broken the will of its previous owner trying to start it. I could start it eventually having developed a knack learning on possibly the worlds most clapped out BSA Barracuda. Fitting a Boyer transformed the B50 into a reliable first or second kick starter in normal temperatures and I used it as a daily ride around London for the next three years. The de-compressor and full starting procedure were still required and very cold mornings required the plug heating up on the stove to achieve the first start of the day. My current B50 with a Boyer is a first kick starter and doesn't have to go out in the cold! On both bikes the only other change was replacing the old Lucas rectifier with a solid state type.

The yamahaha 500 had a silly little window , which the hondaboys thought was rather clever , on the camshaft .

Wind the motor over till the thigo's lined up , and leap on it . Still amuseing to watch one stalled in a mud hole though .

The Electrex ignition is very good on the BSA singles, and in conjunction with a chainsaw type decompressor fitted directly into the head, will mean starting is a first kick operation. Both of these things have been used on BSA MX bikes for many years, and as a fair number of these bikes are running on methanol with very high compression ratios (12-13:1), they tend to be far harder to start than low compression road bikes on petrol.

Hey Glenn, I know what you're upagainst, with the love for singles.
Here's some options...
Does someone make an electric start to siut.?
Left leg kick, if the right leg will hold your weight.
Longer kick start lever.
Park on top of a hill.
Select top gear, roll back off compression and spin the rear wheel by hand.
Start in shed with electric rollers and don't stop till you get back home.
Note.. Yamaha and Honda, 600cc TT, XT and XR had an auto decompressor from kickstart to head
via cable. Worked like a dream, like kicking a 125.
There must be a way Glenn.
Good luck, AC.

Thanks AC but no reason to get that extream. I can still kick with my right leg I just want it to be healthy so it will allways start 1st or 2nd kick so I don't run the risk of tweaking my knee. I guess I will go with a Boyer EI but which one ? And next week I will see the guy who told me about updating the coil so I will ask him about that.

Try my program:

Flame on, pull the comp-release, kick the thing 5 or 6 times to get up some momentum and release the release.

Vince

Unclviny wrote:Try my program:

Flame on, pull the comp-release, kick the thing 5 or 6 times to get up some momentum and release the release.

Vince

Sounds like you're trying to start a two stroke.

gtsun wrote: I guess I will go with a Boyer EI but which one ? And next week I will see the guy who told me about updating the coil so I will ask him about that.

This site should help with selecting an EI

http://www.b50.org/index2.htm

I rode a 441 for years as daily transport. I fitted a Boyer EI (analog, because the digital was not out then) and a solid state rectifier with a good rotor to keep the charge in the battery. I used a generic 12v coil that had the resistance in the correct range (cant remember off the top of my head what it was, but that is dependent on your EI) and it produced a much hotter spark than the stock coil. It barely fit under the fiberglass tank, and I had to make a special bracket for it.

Easy starting with an Amal involves tickling, and in order to make the tickling useful the float height must be correct. Too low and it is reluctant to start, too high and it will flood easily. Wish Amal had the adjustable floats back then! Float bowl gasket thickness is important here too, since it directly affects the fuel level in relation to the jets. Stay away from the silicone float bowl gaskets - way too thick!

It sounds like you already know the decompression starting drill. For me, it was bring it up on compression, ease it over with the decompression lever, then kick through. A hard kick is not necessary, just follow all the way through.

Good luck. That 441 VR was my first bike, and I still have a fondness for her, even though she spent about 5 years in the back of the shed once the Norton showed up!