Access Norton Motorcycle Forum

Too long a wait. I've already got the solution and it's virtually free.

Thanx to one and all for the positive comments, this one has been a long time coming 'till it recently picked up speed.

Just got in my little AGM battery and fabbed up a simple suspended tray that fits perfectly behind the engine, in between the rear pair of engine mounting plates.



I made it from part of a security alarm panel enclosure; basically just had to chop off 2 sides excess, fold up one corner and drill two holes to use the same monuting holes that the regulator/rectifier uses (just off 1/2" from having perfect alignment with the two pre-drilled holes in the plates).

It is a bit of a fiddle to get the battery in and out, but shouldn't have to do that for quite some time.

I really like how the oil tank came out; it's a first-year Commando center mount "square" 'Jerry can' type. I simply re-shaped the upper mounting tab to curl back to an existing featherbed frame tab, then welded on two lower tabs that a pair of strap clamps catch on either side down low. 3-point mounting, at least 1/4" clearance to any adjacent structures, and the pickup/drain at almost the lowest spot on the tank.



Lastly, the slightly cheesy keywitch mount. I was wondering how I could make the Manx seat cut-out work for more than just crotch ventilation, then I figured...

Creative place for your key there grandpaul. Build is really comming along and looking good. Cj

Looks great GPZ, and a little different than most Triton builds.

Keep up the good work

Webby

They're all "a little different".

I'm late to the game, I've wanted to build one for 15 - 20 years, just never had the resources before. This whole deal started with my friend Mark almost getting screwed, then ending up with a spare featherbed frame.

Someones loss is someone elses gain !....
It's like that sometimes Paul.




Seen at Phillip Island, The Plum coloured frame looked very nice.
AC.

That "plum" color sure looks like classic Triumph "Amaranth Red" (also called "Oxblood" by the Chevy Corvette clubbers)

My friend got back, and called me to come on in anytime and get back on the lathe and mill; it took me almost 7 minutes to drive the 5 miles to his house!

First order was to trim the shoulders on the front brake plates to fit the wheel between the forkjs without binding them up; his Bridgeport may be old, but it sure produces accurate cuts-



Next came the single alloy split keeper. I found a nice alloy lug that was just big enough to chuck up in the lathe and went to it-



Yes, I know I could have set up the angle traverse and cut the bevel using straight cuts across the length of the stock; this was easier, and it's soft alloy. Calculating the angle and setting it up properly would have taken me an hour, this took 2 minutes.

A big plus was that the length of the pattern keeper I was copying was exactly the length of the bit's width. One cut to the final thickness was all it took. I simply held the pattern bit up to one of the lathe jaw's face and aligned the tool with it.

Step 1 complete.



Next, over to the band saw and a quick cut right down the middle produced two potential donors. I cut the shoulder off the first one and took some measurements-



The slightest of accidents with a belt grinder trashed the better half, so it was on to the other half-



Not perfect, but it's secure (of course my camera decided it was all done, so apologies for the cruddy phone photo)-

I hope these pistons don't see the light of day for a LONG time (except on occasion through the spark plug hole, of course)-



It's too hard to make out from this photo (autofocus kept focusing on the outer edge of the fins), there is right near 3/16" gap with the second-thinnest silicone o-rings atop the pushrod tubes; should squash in place nicely-



A little anti-sieze on the M.A.P. stainless stud threads (if anyone has an issue with that, take it up with Marino Perna)-

Cleaned up the rocker shaft ends, slipped the o-ring tool on, then the o-ring, a squirt of oil, then tapped the shafts home easily-



Hmmmmm... I think I'm capable of turning out a better-centered "tophat" spacer than whoever is making these for M.A.P...



In this shot, you can just see the tophat spacer underneath the wierd allen fastener that screws onto the center head stud; all special M.A.P. stuff. You can also see the secondary breather system tapped on the left exhaust rocker inspection cap and blowing through a one-way reed valve like the ones I make for the Commando-

Most of the oil lines are done, notice the cartridge type oil filter just to the right of the return line (black tube w/ alloy cap)-



Simple clips to steady the carbs (one each)-



Coming along nicely now that the top end is done-



Oil cooler up front is mounted with the supply line connected, just lacks the return. I've got a design for a head steady cleat that I need to fabricate tomorrow...

The punchlist is getting pretty short now...

Got the oil cooler & oil lines finished. Path is: oil tank to engine main pump inlet, (through engine circuits) scavenge pump outlet to oil filter inlet (cartridge outer surface), to filter outlet (from inner core), to oil cooler, back to oil tank return connection with feed line to rockerboxes. Depending on the performance and flow, I might have to go to a high volume aftermarket oil pump.



Engine looks pretty decent, I still need to tack on the patent plate-



Finally, it looks like a bike...



Not much left to get to the start-up point; main thing I'm missing is petcock nipple fittings, and I need to re-orient the kickstart shaft to engage at a higher angle so I can get in a decent kick. Sucker has mighty good compression!

It's been a pretty one-sided project up 'till now; I finally turned things around (literally), relocated the rearsets to coexist with the kickstarter, pipes, and linkages, and snapped a quick pic of the primary side of the bike-

It looks like a really great bike!

The finned primary cover and red paint look killer- I like your taste in machinery.