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Tickle T-5 .

Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby acotrel » Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:41 am

I'd still be interested in what the specification steering geometry was for the works 1962 500cc Manx , - rake - yoke offset, trail, wheel size ? I don't believe I will ever find an unmodified bike to measure.
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby nickguzzi » Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:18 am

I thought the "works" team was disbanded in the early 50's? Only "production" racers were made after that? Until the final demise in '62 - '63.

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby worntorn » Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:50 am

I have a friend who owns two unmodified Manxes, a 59 and a 61, I should measure them.
I thought the steering head angle for the Manx was 27 degrees, so that is what I made my project bike at. The 27 degree figure was given to me by Terry Prince, who built the first 30 or so Egli Vincent frames for Fritz Egli. Terry said that when he and Egli were planning the design of the first frame, they decided to go with a head angle of 27 as this was a proven ideal angle, the same as one of the best handling bikes ever built, the Featherbed Manx.

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Rohan » Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:50 pm

You should measure them.

From discussions here before, all featherbeds were said to be 26 degrees.
The 750 Commando was 27 degrees.

If anyone is a member of the NOC, someone can supply them with a featherbed frame drawing.
This is said to be half of it (!)
http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-cha ... e-half-bmp

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Rohan » Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:53 pm

nickguzzi wrote:I thought the "works" team was disbanded in the early 50's?
Only "production" racers were made after that? Until the final demise in '62 - '63.


Correct.
Sort of.
So Alan will be searching a long time....

Doug Hele and Co did of course do some works specials in the early 1960s, like the Daytona bikes and 650 domiracers,
that used slimline frames.
Paul Dunstall ended up with these, be interesting to see what he knows/knew about them...

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Matt Spencer » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:17 am

A ancient 70s Motorcyle Maniacs mag stated the rake was 27.5 for manx , 26 for wideline & 24 for slimline . from memory . Though in that order if not exact .

Obviously the jig for each varied . Saw the other day something saying Manxes were heavier tube than Inters . 16G Vs 18G , saying the Inter frame was lighter .
The Japanese response to ' styling ' , was to add more .
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Rohan » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:02 am

None of that sounds right at all Matt.
Throw all the bits of paper up in the air again, and see how they land this time...

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Matt Spencer » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:59 am

None of that sounds right at all Matt.
Throw all the bits of paper up in the air again, and see how they land this time.

Being niether an inebrite or an Australian , I wouldnt know . Sounds like youd better have another beer .
You sound like a school teacher . Someone who couldnt get a real job if they tried ?

' WE ' have found by concensus that you can debate minuate for ever . STICKING a tape measure on them might help .
BUT , a generally knowledeable and accurate maGAZINE CONSIDERS EACH TYPE TO VARY , aS STATED .

Just in case anyone IS intrested in reality rather than concensus . Otherwise we'll all end up with Camels instead of Race Horses .
or is that penny farthigs instead of decimal currancy .
The Japanese response to ' styling ' , was to add more .
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Matt Spencer » Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:24 am

Image

Image

Image

Or WAS it the WIDELINE at 24 & the Slimline raked out more - with the MANX 27 . :lol:
the N.O.C. seems to consider both road chassis to be Twenty Four Degrees .
Last edited by Matt Spencer on Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Matt Spencer » Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:27 am

Image

:shock: :x adresss aledgedly , for ' a bit more ' as its TO BIG in the pixie dept. http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-cha ... e-half-bmp

maybe itll resize , if you hit it , THOUGH its ONLY the Bottom Half WITHOUT the Steering Head . :x

Image
The Japanese response to ' styling ' , was to add more .
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby johnm » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:26 am

Now I would be very pleased to see the complete set of those drawings !!!

I own what I think is a replica slimline frame. - It has a 1956 number stamped on a slimline frame which is a bit out of sequence :-) One day I should sit down and measure it all up.

But the main reason I want to check the frame is that it handles extremely well and the rider rates it over any other featherbed he has ridden. But I would very much like to know what the original numbers were.

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby acotrel » Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:26 pm

Thanks Matt, and I've grabbed a copy of the your photo of the pristine manx.
My friend has a very fast Triton with a manx frame. I asked him the question and he said without hesitation that the rake is 24.5 degrees. I've never known him to be wrong about anything in relation to his bike. I know what 27 and 26 degrees look like on the Seeley and the TZ Yam. respectively, the manx is much steeper. I'd take notice of the NOC long before I'd listen to Rohan.
Have a look at the angle on the forks on my bike to the right of this post and compare it with the forks on the manx in Matt's photo. - The Seeley looks like a bloody chopper.
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby acotrel » Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:52 pm

johnm wrote:Now I would be very pleased to see the complete set of those drawings !!!

I own what I think is a replica slimline frame. - It has a 1956 number stamped on a slimline frame which is a bit out of sequence :-) One day I should sit down and measure it all up.

But the main reason I want to check the frame is that it handles extremely well and the rider rates it over any other featherbed he has ridden. But I would very much like to know what the original numbers were.

John


The easiest way to check the frame is by using a magnetic base protractor. If you are racing you should buy one - very useful for checking out the bikes of the fast guys as long as you are not too obvious when you do it. Replica manx frames made in Australia for racing usually have 26 degree rake, and handle like Suzuki two strokes - no long sweeping access to corners, you just front up and tip in. I was once involved with building a triton with one - it ended up winning many historic championships. The guy who owned it also has a Drixton Aermacchi 350, it has extremely steep rake, and absurd offset fork yokes. I commented to him about the huge offset, and he said it is the secret to it's good handling.
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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Rohan » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:50 pm

acotrel wrote:Thanks Matt, and I've grabbed a copy of the your photo of the pristine manx.


'Pristine' model of what Manx though. ?
That doesn't even look like any recognisable year of manx.
A real hotch-potch of bits, in fact.
Still a nice bike I'm sure though...
Last edited by Rohan on Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tickle T-5 .

Postby Rohan » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:12 pm

Matt Spencer wrote:Saw the other day something saying Manxes were heavier tube than Inters . 16G Vs 18G , saying the Inter frame was lighter .


Saw who and where saying what = details ??

531 tubing was THINWALL HI-TENSILE TUBING.
The 500's (Manxes) got heavier gauge than the 350s.
I have a bicycle made out of something very similar, and its chief claim to fame is that it is LIGHTWEIGHT.

It would be odd indeed if the Inter was lighter, not being made out of such tubing.
The Inters are not noted for being especially lightweight either.
Even the mudguards were steel, in quite a heavy grade....

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