mudplugger wrote:firstly, on kicking it over for the first start the oil pressure went up to 60+ psi, on starting, stopping and starting again it settled at 20psi and seemed to drop on revving,
Three possible causes of a sudden drop in oil pressure can be due to the crankshaft oil seal inverting (lip turns inside out), the OPRV could have stuck open, or a small piece of dirt or metal swarf stuck under the feed pump ball valve.
mudplugger wrote: the oil return was, and still is, impressive coming back into the frame return,
If the crank seal does become inverted, then a certain percentage of oil will go straight to the sump without passing through the crankshaft so you would still see a good return flow, however, this is just one possibility.
mudplugger wrote:secondly, the forks have been re built with new seals, new stanchions, I am sure new springs as well.
Who rebuilt the forks? You might be sure they are new springs but are you sure they are the correct springs?
mudplugger wrote: After compressing, they don't return to full height, I have to pull them back up to full height. I have loosened off the front wheel, bounced about and tightened clamps.
I don't seem to have any bits left over, but it seems that a spacer or something has been missed on my part.
There's no spacer in the standard T140 fork.
A couple of suggestions.
The damper O-rings (97-4003) can be the cause of a 'sticky' fork action. There are better phenolic replacements for the standard O-rings.
Which type of fork seals?
If they are the original '78-on 'self-aligning' or 'leak-proof' type with interference-fit metal 'retainers' (like a large washer above the seal) then the retainers must be fitted so there is a gap below the retainer so the seal is free to 'float'. If the retainers are pressed down hard against the seals it can cause the forks to stick.