Sorry Norbsa, i didn't get the thread on the killswitch for some reason , could you send it again.
Regards Mike

Last bit, eighth post down in this thread.

The kill switch is another good place to use a relay. The relay will hold in with reduced current from the kill switch if it is a little corroded, but the primary circuit of the relay will always transmit full voltage to the Boyer. Plus you can mount the relay out of the weather!

Thanks for your help fellas, i will attack it on the weekend.
Mike

Hi Ron,

The kill button is normally closed, when pushed it's open. A relay is normally open until powered, then closes. If you connect the kill circuit directly to the relay won't the relay be biased at rest creating a current drain? How do you get around that?

Once you turn the ignition switch off there isn't any power going to the kill switch anyhow is there.
Mike.

I believe what dave M is describing is normally known as a 'change over relay', these and other relay types being recognisable by the numbered pins, in this case being 30-85-86-87-87a.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.u ... elays.html

Mike: If you don't know, a fully charged 12v battery will show AT LEAST 12.6volts. 12.0 volts is partially discharged. Electronic ignition systems are very particular about proper voltage. In the automotive world, I have found that vehicles with bad alternators will lose the ignition when voltage drops below 11.5v, on average. The old ones with points will run sometimes as low as 4.5volts before quitting.

David,
I use Bosch style relays. Working from memory, I took the feed from the negative terminal of the battery through a fuse to the "30" terminal of the relay and from the "87" terminal of the relay to the Boyer. The white/yellow wire from the kill button ('71 or later) goes to terminal "86" and terminal "87" is sent to ground.
In this manner the relay is energized when the key is turned on which in turn feeds the Boyer. De-energizing the relay with the kill button opens the circuit to the Boyer.
These relays will trigger with as little as 150 milliamps.

Thanks everyone for their very helpful input, your depth of knowledge is astounding. As Ron & Norbsa suspected earlier it does appear to be a shagged battery(only a month old) it is discharging acid through one of the filler caps and wont hold a charge, i was perhaps thinking of a dry cell battery. I pulled the kill switch apart and managed to get it back together, it appears fine as does the circuitry, any thoughts on a dry cell battery
Thanks Mike.

Not only does low voltage throw off the Boyer but excess voltage will also,good luck. Ride safely, James

Thanks James,
Did a voltage check on the battery, charging at 12.8 volts, a little high, a load test at 104 cca, recommended 90, also the battery level is just a little over full, hence the spillage, but it is over charged a bit but i wouldn't have thought it would be enough to make any difference.
Regards Mike

Well i checked the timing on the weekend 28 deg. before t.d.c. which you all know is about right for points not electronic, so i got a mate to sit on the bike in neutral with the clutch in and took it to 5000 rpm to reset the timing, it got to 4000 and she popped and coughed from there on till we set it at 31 deg. b.t.d.c. and she ran as sweet as a nut once we were on the money, also resoldered the wires at the plate as they looked a bit dicky, she now seems to run a lot smoother and starts a lot easier.
Thanks for the help. Mike