So from the other thread we've looked at how to secure the spindle. There are numerous stories of beating the spindles out. Since we don't want the spindle to move but also not rust how do you protect the spindle (aside from using a SS spindle)?

Coat it with something like this:


Just a rust preventive paint?

I would just be sure to keep it well oiled and be sure you have nice new seals fitted, Also don't pressure wash the bike as I have seen some people do. And maybe don't ride through big puddles, LOL LOL.

I have been thinking about using something like this:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1145 ... GUN_FINISH

I have also been planning to stop by the local gun shop and talk to them about what kind of finishes they are providing these days and what kind of cost are involved.

Hortons Norton wrote:I would just be sure to keep it well oiled and be sure you have nice new seals fitted, Also don't pressure wash the bike as I have seen some people do. And maybe don't ride through big puddles, LOL LOL.

So, ironically in theory spindle should be dry except where the swingarm bushing are. If you trust the Oilite you may not need to add more oil.

And I trust that the Norton factory people also knew the oil lite bushings would soon enough go dry,
and so they said to add a heavy oil somewhat regularly, just in case of course!

highdesert wrote:And I trust that the Norton factory people also knew the oil lite bushings would soon enough go dry,
and so they said to add a heavy oil somewhat regularly, just in case of course!

How do you explain the MkIII configuration of the swingarm lubrication then?

Huh? The thing lives in a tube full of gear lube and we're worrying about rust?

BrianK wrote:Huh? The thing lives in a tube full of gear lube and we're worrying about rust?

My point is that the spindle should not move so why should it be covered in a lubricant? Seems counter-intuitive...

Only worry about rust when the gear oil all runs out... swooshD try using "Quad Ring O-rings" instead of the regular O-rings and make sure that you test fit your swingarm with feeler gauges between the fit up of sintered bronze bushes and the rear engine mount. do this without the O-rings in and try for about 0.005" gap. Put shims between Dust cover outboard side until you get that Gap.
this gives your O-rings a little more sealing tension against the assembly when it is fitted up and driving down the open road.
my 2 cents,
Regards,
CNN

Isn't the point to keep down the friction with the bushings, which do move? Sheesh, I obsessed about getting the fit right when I replaced the bushings. But that's another thread in a galaxy far, far away....!

The cradle is steel, so it will rust without lube. The spindle can be replaced with SS. I made the SS move because my spindle and cradle had rusted and had also oblonged the cradle hole, so I had to have the cradle reamed, a new oversize spindle (SS) and reamed bushings and extra bolts in the cradle and spindle so it will not move. I plan on keeping everything lubed so rust will not form in the cradle again. But then I have the old style, not the new "never lube" ones. Just my 2 cents.

Dave
69S

CanukNortonNut wrote:Only worry about rust when the gear oil all runs out... swooshD try using "Quad Ring O-rings" instead of the regular O-rings and make sure that you test fit your swingarm with feeler gauges between the fit up of sintered bronze bushes and the rear engine mount. do this without the O-rings in and try for about 0.005" gap. Put shims between Dust cover outboard side until you get that Gap.
this gives your O-rings a little more sealing tension against the assembly when it is fitted up and driving down the open road.
my 2 cents,
Regards,
CNN

I don't see shims listed in the Parts Book. Are they specific to the swingarm or just generic?

No shims on mine....

Dave
The shim spacer I get from McMaster Carr
its not a Norton Part so its a Mod.
Regards,
CNN

I pulled my spindle over the weekend. Yeah, it was an adventure in moving. Amazingly there was very little corrosion despite the fact that there was nothing in there and the O-rings were so hard they felt like bakelite.

It is probably over-kill but I am wondering about plating it with something to make the process a little smoother...if you know what I mean.

Maybe something like this:

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/bnen.html

The question I have about this is I have to wonder if adding a couple thousandths of an inch is going to require machining the bushings and tube. Anybody have any idea what the tolerance is on this fit now? Thoughts on it? I am not a big fan of using stainless steel to swap everything out, but the idea of plating some of this stuff (like iso bolts) appeals to me.

Russ