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I'm using Progressive shocks and springs on my '74 and they're fine. Different spring rates are available to suit rider weight and expected payload.

I really like progressive suspension. Have them on a Santa Cruz downhill mountain bike . Starting to have 2nd thoughts on the Works Performance shocks, as I've just read a couple bad reviews. Both reviewers noted poor customer service and leaking issues.? Waiting to hear back from Wilber's. Where did you get your Progressive shocks?

Congratulations Maylar.
You have the shiniest seat knobs I have ever seen!
The one in the photo looks like a little mirror reflecting your image back at us.

I have the Hagons, my only complaint is riding solo they are pretty firm, at lowest preload. But two up the ride is nice. I have the Landsdowne front end treatment with home made teflon bushes, the front end is luxurious. Funny I never noticed the rear being harsh until I got the front sorted? Your bike is spotless Maylar, I hope you don't trailer it around. Sorry mate, please don't take offence! But are your progressive comfortable, I have them on my Shovelhead and they really transformed the old truck, now I can ride all day on the Shove and still walk afterward.
Cheers Richard

I put a set of Ikons on the Commando and they do touch the chain guard slightly, they were used and off a modern Bonnie, so swapped out the springs for 215's and its very nice to ride....I pinched them for a while and used them on my BMW racer and they worked well on that too.
Koni dial a rides are the same and I got parts off Ikon to rebuild a set of Konis.
Easy to rebuild, I posted on ADV rider on how to do it.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=808690

Hey Stockie, what's the Landsdowne front end treatment?

Snorton, a member in England is the brain behind these works of art. There is plenty of info on here or google. But in a nutshell, they replace the Norton dampers and rods with an adjustable pair, via needle valves, on side is rebound, the other compression like most moderns. If your forks are mechanically sound, i.e. not bent or sticking these are the TITS.

Cheers Richard

maylar wrote:I'm using Progressive shocks and springs on my '74 and they're fine. Different spring rates are available to suit rider weight and expected payload.

Do you happen to remember the model number for those progressive shocks?

I've been using the low cost NJB's, apparently handles by an ex Girling engineer. They are cheap and need plastic inserts to adapt to the Norton 3/8" lower bolts and they are a little soft with no pre-load but on the 2nd setting they work really well. The chrome is rubbish like Hagons but I would rate them as better. Not in Ikons/Konis league but for the price they are good value.
On the front end I just swopped out my cheap RGM progressives for newly manufactured stock Andover springs and what a difference! A little bit harsher but they don't rub inside the stanchions and the movement is so much smoother.

I did a bit of research when building up my classic racer BMW last year, and one of the guys on our local forum is the agent for Ohlins and he is happy to explain about suspension.
He dislikes so called "Progressive ' springs as a poor 70's work around. The theory I gather is that the spring resistance increases as more force is applied..... BMW's have very long travel forks with softish touring springs, guys have played around with oil weights and springs for years.
I modified mine with Racetech Emulators which vary the oil volume on compression as opposed to the fixed orifice that damper rod forks have. This coupled with linear springs makes for a much improved ride over stock and progressive.

The Ohlins shocks are also available in classic black with no piggy back reservoir and the DIFFERENCE is they have both compression and rebound damping therefore the springs can be lighter......however they are are twice the price of Ikons.
I have a set of Lansdown internals and they effectively do the same thing as the Ohlins, one fork does compression one does rebound.( I have yet to fit them)

My old Bevel drive has a set of Works progressive fork springs and Works Trackers, If I knew now what I knew then I would have gone Racetech and Ikon with the correct springs for my weight.....I don't ride it hard or often enough to justify Ohlins.

Well thats what I have learnt about suspension......works well on my BMW...it handles great.

cheers
John

B+Bogus wrote:The Manual states 13" between centres, but I've seen 12.9" mentioned also (no biggie!)

Ikons perform very well, and are well worth the investment.
I've got a pair of Falcon shocks ready to put on my proddy racer, but as I haven't built the bike yet I can't comment!
They build to order and aren't as expensive as you'd expect - depending on what your requirements are, of course.

They're still not cheap, though. It depends on what level of performance you require - Hagons are OK for a 'daily rider', and still make the correct type for the Commando.

Got any pics of those Falcons? I emailed them but haven't heard back yet. Did you get yours thru Minnovation?

72Combat wrote:I did a bit of research when building up my classic racer BMW last year, and one of the guys on our local forum is the agent for Ohlins and he is happy to explain about suspension.
He dislikes so called "Progressive ' springs as a poor 70's work around. The theory I gather is that the spring resistance increases as more force is applied..... BMW's have very long travel forks with softish touring springs, guys have played around with oil weights and springs for years.
I modified mine with Racetech Emulators which vary the oil volume on compression as opposed to the fixed orifice that damper rod forks have. This coupled with linear springs makes for a much improved ride over stock and progressive. cheers
John

Re; "guys have played around with oil weights and springs for years."

You can only do this ( change oil weight) IF you can dismantle the rear shocks.
Girling used to make racing dampers that had this, but are no longer made, since Hagon took over their business,

I ordered a set of these: http://www.njbshocks.co.uk/

Hoping they arrive today. My friend has some and says they work quite well and are a good value. I also like the fact that the NJB fellow is retired from Girling. I'll post my thoughts after I get them mounted. I'm running original fitment shocks at the moment, the ones that have been on the bike since it was new.

From the site:
"After 24 years in a number of technical capacities with Girling, Norman Blakemore volunteered for early retirement at 50 years of age. He formed his own company and is now able to provide a range of motorcycle shocks specifically developed for pure competition applications."

I like the exotic stuff and I am reasonably sure overall performance of Ohlins and Works is better. But these look the part and are quite a bargain compared to that fancy stuff. Anyway, going to give them a try.

Has anyone used these? I am thinking of ordering a set, just under $100 shipped.
http://www.tecbikepartsusa.com/

I got my NJBs in. They are spitting images of the stock Girlings. I had to grind the top bushings' steel sleeves slightly to fit in between the frame mounts, but other than that they go right on. Have to use these (provided) plastic sleeve things around the bolts as the steel sleeves on the bushings are bigger than the bolts. They came with a bunch of extra rubber bushings with different IDs but none were sleeved with steel. So I used the plastic buffer things that go over the bolts to make them a better fit in the steel-sleeved bushings already installed in the shocks. It was all in baggies that came with the shocks. There were 12 rubber bushings, 8 washers, and these plastic sleeves. Also a preload spanner.

Anyway, took about 10 minutes to swap them out. Like I said, they look identical but have spring preload adjustment, which my stockers did not.

I've only got a few test miles in but they feel more compliant and less harsh on square-edge bumps. I haven't cornered it very hard or ridden two-up yet, but my short ride showed that these are an improvement over originals with 15,000 miles on them. They definitely have more rebound damping than the stockers. I'll get another ride in this afternoon and relate the experience.