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Ready for paint

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Ready for paint

Postby Ron L » Sat Mar 25, 2017 12:52 pm

Three early frames just back from sandblast ready for epoxy primer. Put back all the tabs, battery box, and rear fender loops the "customizers" cut off in the chopper craze. You can see how they are all brazed and not welded.
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Ron L
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Re: Ready for paint

Postby CanukNortonNut » Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:15 pm

Ron L,
Great to see the start of a few new projects. 8)
Keep us posted.
Cheers,
Thomas
On Any Sunday...A motorcycle is what ever you want to make it. Turn it on, and you can give yourself a real thrill...
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Re: Ready for paint

Postby kentvander » Tue May 16, 2017 6:47 pm

Any of these frames for sale? I have one P=11 scrambler (dirt bike) and 2 engines. Sure would like to put together a 2nd P-11 but can't find a frame.

Can anyone help?
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Re: Ready for paint

Postby lcrken » Tue May 16, 2017 9:10 pm

Very nice! Always good to see quality work.

Ken
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Re: Ready for paint

Postby Ron L » Wed May 17, 2017 5:23 pm

kentvander wrote:Any of these frames for sale? I have one P=11 scrambler (dirt bike) and 2 engines. Sure would like to put together a 2nd P-11 but can't find a frame.

Can anyone help?


We have several P11's to complete, so we are in the same situation. Paperwork is essential. At this point we are concentrating on the ones with clear titles and frames that are reasonably salvagable. As these projects are completed, there may be parts or basket cases to liquidate. As of now, we are not selling anything.
Ron L
'73 MkV 750 Roadster
'74 850 Interstate
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Re: Ready for paint

Postby Bernhard » Thu May 18, 2017 3:57 am

[quote="Ron L"]Three early frames just back from sandblast ready for epoxy primer. Put back all the tabs, battery box, and rear fender loops the "customizers" cut off in the chopper craze. You can see how they are all brazed and not welded. (quote)



Sorry, I have to correct you to avoid any confusion, we have had this discussion elsewhere before about 1960s frames-they are NOT brazed-technically they are SIF bronze welded which melts at a HIGHER temperature than brazing :!:

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Re: Ready for paint

Postby Ron L » Thu May 18, 2017 7:12 pm

Bernhard wrote:
Sorry, I have to correct you to avoid any confusion, we have had this discussion elsewhere before about 1960s frames-they are NOT brazed-technically they are SIF bronze welded which melts at a HIGHER temperature than brazing :!:


Since I am not a welder by profession I tend to use the word "brazing" to mean a metal-joining process in which two or more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a filler metal into the joint, the filler metal having a lower melting point than the adjoining metal. While soldering is similar but using a lower temperature. Welding, to me, joins two metals at a temperature sufficient to melt the work pieces. Readers may take exception to these definitions.

I am aware that the frames were originally joined with a filler commonly known as SIF bronze (a tradename for a filler rod of copper, manganese, silicon, tin, and zinc). However, for replacing mounting tabs, battery boxes, etc. common brass brazing rod should be sufficient.

I apologize if anyone mistook my statements to mean we altered or modified the frame structure with brass rod.
Ron L
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'74 850 Interstate
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Re: Ready for paint

Postby hrwat1 » Wed May 31, 2017 4:31 pm

Ron,

The frames look great. You wouldnt happen to have the dimensions/measurements on the Brace/rear loop?

My P11 is meant to be an early high piper but previous owner had made numerous similar modifications and it would be great to put ot back 100 percent.

H

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Re: Ready for paint

Postby Ron L » Tue Jun 06, 2017 5:06 pm

hrwat1 wrote:Ron,

The frames look great. You wouldnt happen to have the dimensions/measurements on the Brace/rear loop?

My P11 is meant to be an early high piper but previous owner had made numerous similar modifications and it would be great to put ot back 100 percent.

H

Sorry for the late reply. The rear tube was made by my partner from 5/8 OD thin wall tube (I don't know the thickness). It measures very close to 12 inches in length and was bent to match an original on another frame. We left the tube a little long and trimmed it to fit nicely before brazing/gas welding in place. The tabs were added last using the rear fender as a guide to clamp them into position before brazing.

I hope this helps.
Ron L
'73 MkV 750 Roadster
'74 850 Interstate
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