nortnlvr, I could not find it on the site. Did you contact them?

Diablouph wrote:nortnlvr, I could not find it on the site. Did you contact them?

I sent them an email, be glad to forward to you.

The Boyer's timing will be all over the place without steady power. If you have any intentions of starting and idling the bike, I'd revert to points as the first step.

I have just done that with my Norton Hunt maggie, Sparx elimanator, have 3 main power, brake and tail light wire so only 5 wires in the main wiring harnest, very neat and not much to go wrong and 1 earth wire but didn't run it in the main wiring harnest all works good and a hidden switch for the maggie kill switch, very easy job to do and neat and all wiring heat shrinked...

Great nortnlvr, I would love to see it. It might be better if you could post in the thread for all to see. Also, I would love to see some Pics of mag instillations. Any one have some?

Diablouph wrote:Great nortnlvr, I would love to see it. It might be better if you could post in the thread for all to see. Also, I would love to see some Pics of mag instillations. Any one have some?

Here is a link to Rask Cycle that has the diagram
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc16b.html

nortnlvr wrote:

Diablouph wrote:Great nortnlvr, I would love to see it. It might be better if you could post in the thread for all to see. Also, I would love to see some Pics of mag instillations. Any one have some?

Here is a link to Rask Cycle that has the diagram
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc16b.html

So you're going to replace the battery in the drawing with a capacitor or have you decided to keep the battery?

No, I'm trying to replace my ignorance about motorcycle electronics with knowledge. So far, I haven't found a GOOD book on the subject. Know any?

Diablouph wrote:No, I'm trying to replace my ignorance about motorcycle electronics with knowledge. So far, I haven't found a GOOD book on the subject. Know any?

I have one somewhere around here.... Give me a bit of time and I'll find it for you after dinner.

" Motorcycle Electrical Manual " by Haynes.

willh wrote:

nortnlvr wrote:

Diablouph wrote:Great nortnlvr, I would love to see it. It might be better if you could post in the thread for all to see. Also, I would love to see some Pics of mag instillations. Any one have some?

Here is a link to Rask Cycle that has the diagram
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc16b.html

So you're going to replace the battery in the drawing with a capacitor or have you decided to keep the battery?

What are the A-hr requirements with this setup? i.e. how low of an A-hr rating is sufficient?

willh wrote:

nortnlvr wrote:

Diablouph wrote:Great nortnlvr, I would love to see it. It might be better if you could post in the thread for all to see. Also, I would love to see some Pics of mag instillations. Any one have some?

Here is a link to Rask Cycle that has the diagram
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc16b.html

So you're going to replace the battery in the drawing with a capacitor or have you decided to keep the battery?

I will just remove the battery, however, I plan to hook up quick disconnects so I can attach, detach the battery. I'll carry the battery in my pocket.

If you're doing a cafe and you don't want to see it, you could hide one of those tiny batteries almost anywhere,(in seat hump, cafe fairing, behind tranny, between engine and tranny, saddlebag, toolroll, etc.) and save yourself the trouble of removing it. Just an idea.

I Highly Reccomend even a tiny battery to kick start a Boyer and likely others too.
Its really hard to kick fast enough to get over 10.5 v to fire Boyer brain at right time or at all. A capacitor helps to storage some voltage between the alternator spikes.
With a dead battery in circuit may be impossible to kick or roll start till disconnected.

I've had a side cover come off and battery fail out in a learning curve ride.
Made mistake of pulling over to investigate and couldn't start. A farmer I knew
stopped and gave me a run up to 25ish when alternator was sufficient.
Got home keeping it rev'd up to stay lit. That was prior to Ms Peel 1.2 ah
battery and drilled out everything.

If just for starting voltage shoot could just click together two 9 v's and hide anywhere, even in headlamp. Replace every few gas fill ups.
Wish they made something to fit in handle bars.

hobot

I suppose the Boyer would have the same problem that it has with the electric start Mk III's - when the voltage drops below a certain point, the spark advance gets unreliable. That makes me wonder if running one of the newer Boyer amplifier modules wouldn't at least help with that problem - a Mk IV or one of the digital ones. They all will work off the old rotor/stator. This is an upgrade to electric start Mk III's. Some of the cycle supply places will sell the amp box separately.