Oil feed, pressure gauge and threads

[Diamondjet]

Parker NB-4-062 is an N series nylon tubing with a id of .125" and an of of approximately .25" (which is the od of my stock lines on a 1973 850). The burst pressures are 2000 psi @ 73F and working pressure of 500 psi @ 73F. Will this fit the barbettes on the rocker oil feed banjos? I've read here in the past that some say they will fit if heated first....another posted that they must be fitted cold in order to assure they don't loosen? I sure don't want to spend $100+ on this oil line when there are other parts I need.

[DogT]

Diamondjet,

Read the second post in this britbikes thread.

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthrea ... #Post66924

Dave
69s

[Ron L]

How many lines will 100 feet of tubing make? At least 10 (with a lot of waste). Recycle the banjo fittings. Total cost is less than $3 each.
http://www.anythingtruck.com/commercial/airb_hose.html

As I said before, a diesel mechanic friend of mine saves the scrap for me and I have some lines on my bikes that are over 15 years old. I used a heat gun as I had no luck forcing it over the barb cold. No failures.

No question braided stainless is the final answer, but if you consider the cost difference. You could make a new line every year and still be ahead.

my $0.02

[Norton-Villier]

I was told by a NORTON dealer back in the 70s to put tubing in boiling water get bango started then put both back in and push it on After it cools blow water out of line Phil

[DogT]

Ron,

Thanks for that link, I think MSC will sell it cut in 10' sections for about .42/foot which is about double the price for 100'. I don't know if they have a minimum order or what the shipping cost would be, but it shouldn't be much. I'll find out when I try to order some. I didn't have any problem driving the banjo into my old pipe with the flaring tool and a rubber mallet. I tried holding it in my hand and it is impossible that way. I am sure Ludwig's method of drilling a hole in some wood and cutting it in half would work too. I did find you had to be very careful to drive it into the pipe exactly straight. Personally, I would be reticent about using any heat because I can get the banjos in without it and they are very tight, but if you haven't had any problems, great. I know when I took them apart with heat, the pipe was ruined.



Dave
69S

[Per G]

Per G, What kind of oil pressure switch did you use? I wanted to do the same but was worried it would be lit to often as the pressure gets low at idle. Thanks, Chuck.

Chuck,
I assume there are many pressure switches that can be used but I use a switch that is listed to fit older Audi 100 1.8 (and many others).
The make of my switch is KW. There are several numbers listed on the box:
Oil pressure switch 500 008
8 012510 137451
Bosch 0 344 101 082
LUCAS SOB 507 (it is actually listed as SOB )

I cut a new thread to fit it to the existing threads in the cylinder head.

I can't recall the pressure figure for the swith but it does not go on even on very low idle. Actually goes off at a got push at the kick
The oil pump is restored to "better than new" condition and the cylinder head is also fixed so I guess this helps to keep the oil pressure good.

Best regards,
Per

[Hortons Norton]

Thanks Per, I Always liked the idea of a light instead of a high pressure line to the bars.

[Per G]

Chuck,
Yes, in my opinion this is the most reliable way of doing it. Only one pressure line left and a very simple and non-expensive system.
The original style indicator light fitted in the headlight also looks "original".

Cheers,
Per

[Berticus]

For future reference, I made a double length banjo bolt and attached a temporary oil pressure gauge to the rocker feed. After I'd messed about for ages connecting a gauge I saw RGM sell a gauge and line already made up for £20. Sometime soon I'm going to replace the original oil feed line with a nylon one and in the longer term I'm going to try fitting an electrical pressure switch. Thanks for all the advice chaps.