Hey guys,
SwooshDave has one. I got one too. Its for the Norvil style rearsets.
My switch doesn't activate the light until the pedal is fully depressed... hard.
Is there anybody out there that has discovered an adjustment for this mystery switch?
Thanks
J. Doggg

OK then,
12 hours, 27 looks, but no replies. I guess this piece isn't used vey much.
Alright then, let me re-phrase the question:
If you have rearsets, what kind of rear brake light switch are you using?
How is it mounted and actuated. Pics if possible.
I will post mine tommorow.

J. Dogggg

SD, I have Mick H rearsets which have an adaptor/brake pedal mount that retains the stock switch. You can just see the switch in this pic mounted at 50 deg angle and operated by tab on the rear of the pedal.

Surfdog wrote:OK then,
12 hours, 27 looks, but no replies. I guess this piece isn't used vey much.
Alright then, let me re-phrase the question:
If you have rearsets, what kind of rear brake light switch are you using?
How is it mounted and actuated. Pics if possible.
I will post mine tommorow.

J. Dogggg

Someone's had too much kona coffee and isn't running on aloha time.

If it helps, and it won't I didn't get very many responses either.

Keith1069 wrote:SD, I have Mick H rearsets which have an adaptor/brake pedal mount that retains the stock switch. You can just see the switch in this pic mounted at 50 deg angle and operated by tab on the rear of the pedal.

Ditto! Stock cable, stock switch. Great functionality.

Was the cable from Norvil also? Did you try asking them?

Russ

On Ms Peel with John Tinkle rear sets I was able to mount the
brake cable holder-peg mount so factory brake cable was a straight
shot at the drum shoe lever. This might make the inline switch
more stable adjustable, don't know as I never adapted factory wimpy
rear switch or universal spring tug switch I'd gotten for this.


Can blow up photo a bit more from here is ya care.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1383202 ... 1179EnkEUv

hobot

Yes Russ,
The cable was from Norvil.
They don't take email technical questions.
They are 12 hours time difference from me (hawaii). i.e. noon = midnight.
They provide an international phone number for tech support.
They provide a 1 hour window when the tech is standing by that number.
Something like 4pm in the afternoon for them.
That translates to 4am for me.
Nope I haven't asked them yet.
Ha ha ha.
Cable was expensive.
Old Britts has pictures of them on their webpages.
I shoulda got it from Fred and Ella.
I'll need to take it off, take it apart and try to figure it out.
The good old tried and true way for everything Norton.
J dogggg

Surfdog wrote:Hey guys,
SwooshDave has one. I got one too. Its for the Norvil style rearsets.
My switch doesn't activate the light until the pedal is fully depressed... hard.
Is there anybody out there that has discovered an adjustment for this mystery switch?
Thanks
J. Doggg

Hi Surfdog,
I read your post just right now. When I bought my bike, I had the same problem. I managed to solve it but I'm afraid I'll have to check out how I did it... I'll be back soon - maybe tomorrow.

Paul wrote:

Surfdog wrote:Hey guys,
SwooshDave has one. I got one too. Its for the Norvil style rearsets.
My switch doesn't activate the light until the pedal is fully depressed... hard.
Is there anybody out there that has discovered an adjustment for this mystery switch?
Thanks
J. Doggg

Hi Surfdog,
I read your post just right now. When I bought my bike, I had the same problem. I managed to solve it but I'm afraid I'll have to check out how I did it... I'll be back soon - maybe tomorrow.

Here's how Paul did his.



Shouldn't the brake cable run through the muffler mounts? Looks like a severe angle on the cable.

hobot wrote:On Ms Peel with John Tinkle rear sets I was able to mount the
brake cable holder-peg mount so factory brake cable was a straight
shot at the drum shoe lever. This might make the inline switch
more stable adjustable, don't know as I never adapted factory wimpy
rear switch or universal spring tug switch I'd gotten for this.


Can blow up photo a bit more from here is ya care.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1383202 ... 1179EnkEUv

hobot

Whoa Hobot!

Is it just me, or does anybody else blush seeing a dignified lady like Mrs. Peel, lying on here side with her bottom end exposed for the world to see?

Nothing in this universe makes sense. Its not supposed to... You get to construct your own concepts if you are lucky... Unlucky if you believe what some one else tells you is the truth.

Well, was best view I could find on the rear brake cable run.
I'm ashamed to admit to some sensitivity on dropping my fine companions.
But my game plan is to use up everything around me and go out feeling fine.

That was a Very Very Good Day on Ms Peel, the last front rod of triangulated
rod linkage was fitted in the woods and owner and friend
were hot to trot on their dirt-trail bikes in raavine and whopptydoo's
feeling sorry for me I could follow on heavy road bike so was
offered spare dirt bike or ATV, but whoowee only think I couldn't
do just as well on faster was hop up on the huge tires. Tip over
happened getting to bored following the narrow paths so flicked
of trial across raw woods to hit a stump with only LH frame rail.
Next time out will clear that stump no problemo.
OK I'll take off big fairing and hard bags for any rough play.

I can't be an atronaut, nor professional fighter pilot or base jumper
in rocket assisted wing suit, so a close 2nd for G's of Glee >>>

Safe Journeys,
hobot

swooshdave wrote:Shouldn't the brake cable run through the muffler mounts? Looks like a severe angle on the cable.

The cable is too long for this :



@ Surfdog: the switch is a very simple construction but it works in an "opposite" way. It's activated when the brake pedal is not depressed : a black plunger ensures that the metal ring inside the switch is removed from the two contacts (and so the brake light goes out). So if you have to push the pedal to far down before the brake light goes on, move the switch more backwards and if that's impossible, you can modify the plunger like this :

Hey Paul,
Thanks for the input.
But I think I have a different setup.
That picture in the last post looked like a stock switch mounted against the back of the pedal/lever.
Mine as the topic suggests is an Inline switch on the brake cable itself.
Its held in position by the cable housing and the cable itself runs through it.
Can't move it, unell your talking about something internal to the switch.
I have yet to yake it off and apart.
But that is my next step.
Heres some pics to show you guys what I'm talking about.

I tried to buy one from Old Britts, and they wouldn't sell it to me. They said that they were too much trouble. Too many returns. I took the hint and fixed the flange that holds the switch on the brake pedal.

Glad to hear Mrs. Peel is O.K. I just figured that Hobot had killed her with all the hell he puts her through, and he was getting ready to give her a Christian burial.