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gearbox play

 
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swensosc



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:01 am    Post subject: gearbox play Reply with quote

I've been trying this summer to get my primary drive tensioned properly, and have run into some difficulty. I've been running a belt drive for a couple years with no trouble. Last fall I noticed my final chain getting tight, so I would adjust things, and it would be okay for a while before tightening up. So then I bought a left-side gearbox adjuster and put that in thinking it would solve the problem, but it didn't. Now I'm wondering if the problem might be that the hole for the top gearbox mounting bolt is worn. That would explain why it would start out loose enough, but get tighter, even though the gearbox adjusters are keeping the bolt locked in place. So I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this, and can anything be done to fix it? Thanks for any info.
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cash



Joined: 10 Nov 2006
Posts: 419
Location: west cumbria

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually find the final drive pulls the gearbox back and tightens the primary.
Non-the-less, try, with the top bolt just nipped, over tightening the primary chain then slacken it off to the correct tension and lastly fully tighten the top bolt. Now set the rear chain. All the backlash will be taken out of the hole preventing the gearbox moving forward.

If you know what I mean??
Cash
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Ron L



Joined: 27 Feb 2004
Posts: 1101
Location: Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are using both transmission adjusters to set the belt tension, then I don't see how the top bolt could move. The bottom mount possibly.

Is there a loose enough fit in the adjuster banjos that allows the transmission to twist in the frame? Does the belt run true? Is the belt too tight? It will get tighter as primary gets hot.
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debby



Joined: 15 Apr 2004
Posts: 890
Location: Boulder, CO

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We need ludwig to join this discussion. I'm pretty sure I saw him post once about having the mounting holes in the housing bushed to take up the slop.

Debby,
chaindrivegirl Razz
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zotz



Joined: 15 Jul 2007
Posts: 31
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understand the concept of bushing the mounts to get rid of slop but have trouble understanding how the dual tensioners could work. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me that you can twist the transmission when it is sandwiched between 2 plates and then bolted at 2 points. Especially the bottom mount which is not slotted and even more so if you've bushed the holes to remove slop. I would think the whole assembly would try to pull itself straight when you tighten everything up, and if you did manage to hold it skewed with the adjusters there would not be complete contact between the faces of the gearbox and mounting plates.
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swensosc



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think maybe the dual tensioners are working fine, and the top bolt isn't moving. But if the hole is a little oversize, then the gearbox could still move some front to back. To get my primary belt adjusted, I took a ride with it loose. People always say make sure your primary isn't too tight or you'll frag your gearbox bearings, so I try to err on the side of looser. But there's such a thing as too loose, and you can tell when a belt drive is too loose, because it will flap like crazy, or even skip. So I rode, tightened it up, repeated until I got it just tight enough that it didn't flap. Then I tightened up all the adjusters and the mounting bolts. But after my next long ride, I check the belt and it's pretty tight again. So I loosen it up a tiny bit, and of course, it starts flapping. Pretty frustrating. I think I'm going to tighten it up to where it doesn't flap, and call it good enough. If it seems too tight after that, I'll just leave it and hope for the best.
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The Unapproachable Norton Commando

At the end of 1967 the Norton Commando was announced.

The Norton Commando was greeted with a certain amount of scepticism because on first sight the commando appeared to comprise of the old Norton Dominator twin cylinder engine mounted at an inclined angle in a set of new cylinder parts.

It was not realized that the new Norton Commando Isolastic method of engine suspension damped out all engine vibration and produced a machine which had uncanny smoothness for a vertical twin. In due course the critics were silenced and the Norton Commando had the distinction of being regarded as the first of todays so called superbikes. There can be little doubt that the original design concept of the Norton Commando has proved correct, since comparatively few modifications of any real consequence have been made since production commenced during 1968.

Now nearly 40 years later Norton Commando riders like us are a breed of our own, and as far as we are concerned its still more fun to go for a blat on the old Norton Commando, and fast. As a Norton Commando owner and enthusiast, my goal here is to promote and give credit to those who keep the Norton name going.

It is more deserving to give credit to the Commando itself, for after all these years it continues to be respected. The original Commando designers like John Favill are those who deserve the credit for developing this incredible motorcycle.

The Norton Commando Roadster and Interstate of the late seventies, never died. Although the Norton Villiers factory dispersed the tradition lived on. Today Kenny Dreer in the USA is developing the new 952 CC Norton. What a great looking bike this is, and its engineering is still based on the original layout. It will be interesting to see how the new 952CC Norton does in todays tough motorcycle market. One thing is for sure, I would own one if I could afford it.