I have a helper one day a week, today was it!

In between directing the action and taking photos, I was working out the project framework, timeline, parts list with numbers, and setting up the master spreadsheet file. It helped that my phone wasn't ringing (much)...

Coincidentally, I got calls from TWO forum members with Norton-related questions.

Paul, It looks to me like the primary chain adjuster can only push the gearbox forward and prevent it from being pulled backwards, any rearward movement seems like it will have to be done with this adjuster loosened off and the final drive chain used to tension the primary chain and then the G/box studs tightened and the final drive readjusted, is this correct? If so it seems less than ideal and I am inclined to fit an additional adjuster on the right side mounting plate.

Dave, you are correct. I'm not sure that klink will want to do too many mods, but that would be a recommended one.

Paul, Thanks for the confirmation, I managed to source the right gearbox and plates and adjuster for my own project but this adjuster system seemed counter intuitive. I'm still collecting parts as they emerge on e-bay and elsewhere. I am watching this build with considerable interest.

I'm really stretching out my one mug of coffee these days...

Timing side ready to start in-



Tranny removed-



Thickened tranny mount plate on the timing side-



Primary chain adjuster is wierd, works counter-productive. You have to loosen everything off and use the rear axle adjustment to take up the slack! I think we ought to investigate modifying the existing adjuster to Commando type, and installing a second Commando adjuster on the right for better stability. Anyway, tranny mount plates removed-

Some hamfist previously working on this bike tore the oil pressure relief screen-



Timing cover off-



Timing cavity sludge buildup; at least the oil was in decent shape-



Mag chain was a bit knackered-

Oil pump seal was torn up pretty badly (sorry for the dark photo)-



Magneto removed with auto advancer unit-



Timing gear all removed (except crank pinion)-



Managed to get the crank pinion to budge about 1/4", then this-

Exhaust rockers & valve gear looks fairly clean-



Intake end looks even cleaner-



Couldn't find my 1/4" Whitworth spanner anywhere, had to grind down a 14mm Craftsman box-end to get the 3 underside head bolts undone! It must be "ruin some tools" day...

Head gasket is a conglomeration of several very thin copper sheets, some torn-



Pushrods showed some scuffing; so far it looks like someone has been inside this here engine...

Head removed-



Piston tops look typically "coked"-



.050 oversize?



The pistons are pretty sloppy in the bores, and the blemishing on the cylinders together seem to indicate .060 over pistons & rings are in order, along with a refinish hone to size.

Combustion chambers are decidely sooty, I blame the Mikuni carb!

Jugs off-



Lift your skirts!

Rear ends-



Faces-



Actually, not bad at all.

Cam lobes look good, no flat spotting at all-

Aforementioned cylinder wall blemishes will clean up easily-



Cam followers (tappets) have slight flat spotting, pretty typical-



Nearly there; the crank was "wet sumped", so we'll have to have a good close look at the oil pump faces. Significant sludge; previous owner wasn't into oil changes-



Crank is in great shape, zero surface rust-

I can smell the old oil from here.

Right side rod shells show some mild issues-



Left side looks similar-



Yep. They've been into the bottom end as well. The big end shells are .030 undersize-



Journals look great, zero scuffing. The shells did thier job-

Right side sludge trap almost totally clean, just a bit of scum on the outer edge-



Left side has a bit more crud, but not bad at all-



That's about it for the engine-



All in all, no suprises. Pretty nice when nothing is broken or badly bodged.

That's not bad at all, from the looks of the outside of the bike I thought the engine would be toast.