I have a dedicated 10" buffing motor & several differant wheels. Just wondering if the pro's have differant wheels for specific compounds? In the past I used one wheel for everything. Just changed compounds. Bad idea?

If you do volume work, it's a different wheel for each different compound.

DIY guys, all on the same wheel.

Things that I have learned the hard way. Use one compound per wheel, clean the part before changing to a finer grit (soap and water seem to work fine) otherwise you will contaminate the next wheel with the courser grit and you never get the part looking the way you wanted. If you only have one wheel to use it must be cleaned before changing grit. A old saw or hack saw blade helps to clean it off, but best to have a 2nd set.

gtsun wrote:I have a dedicated 10" buffing motor & several differant wheels. Just wondering if the pro's have differant wheels for specific compounds? In the past I used one wheel for everything. Just changed compounds. Bad idea?

What brand buffing motor do you have? details?
I am looking at a Caswell http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/34hpbuffkit.html
I'd perfer to buy a machine that will last many years and work well than worry about the bottom line pricing.
thanks!
kurt

The eccentrics get 2 or 3 wheels (coarse, medium and soft) for each compound.

I got a harbor freight 3/4hp for about $80 delivered. It seems OK, but doubt if it would last with continuous use. I get my wheels and compound from Caswell. I use different wheels for different compound and clean the item between buffings.


Dave
69S

Yes, I use different wheels for each compound. Not only to prevent contamination but also to optimize the results of each step. In general, the finer the compound the looser the wheel.

What brand buffing motor do you have? details?
I am looking at a Caswell http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/34hpbuffkit.html
I'd perfer to buy a machine that will last many years and work well than worry about the bottom line pricing.

If you will be doing a lot of buffing and want good performance and longevity, you might want to consider this:
http://www.tptools.com/p/746,79_1-1and2-HP-Baldor-Buffer-and-Enclosed-Stand-Packages.html

The Caswell unit would be fine for occassional work.

Personally, I despise buffing and would rather buy a cheap motor for small jobs and farm out buffing for a complete restoration.

Pictured below is my favorite polishing tool. It is quick and easy to get into hard to reach spots.



It turns 2400 RPM and is an old powerhouse, as it is nearly impossible to bog down no matter how hard you bear down on it. What I like best about securing the piece to the bench and working from above is that it makes it easy to see what I am doing. I will clean the wheel by running it over a sharp edge between different compounds (like a large, stiff putty knife in the vice). Aluminum is soft enough that you will leave marks in it while buffing, the trick for me is to back off on the pressure for the last pass, just pressing hard enough to take those marks out.

I am not trying for a mirror finish, the last thing I want is to see my face when I look at my bike. But the pics below is what I can get from this machine in about 20 minutes of messing around.




I am sure this would not pass inspection for many, but it works for me. I have spent a lot of hours polishing metal that just didn't hold up in the elements (mostly on my boat), so I figure I gotta balance the looks with what I am willing to take out in the world and use.

Russ

Now don't laugh. But wouldn't this work for the occasional maintain polish?:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/de ... 3&v=glance

Thanks for the advice & tips. I have had pretty good success over the years but was wanting to do better. I allways used a saw type cleaning tool between compounds but not contaminating wheels or buffs with differant compounds has really helped. I'm ok with my results & like them not quite chrome like bright any way. If I could learn to post pictures from my Photobucket account using my I-Phone I would. I have the app just not sure how to do it yet. Glenn. Thanks for the advice & tips. I have had pretty good success over the years but was wanting to do better. I allways used a saw type cleaning tool between compounds but not contaminating wheels or buffs with differant compounds has really helped. I'm ok with my results & like them not quite chrome like bright any way. If I could learn to post pictures from my Photobucket account using my I-Phone I would. I have the app just not sure how to do it yet. Glenn.

I love the diversity of the Norton owners and each approach to the problem. I think Juneau, Alaska has the best get er done approach. I also love the "eccentrics" approach. I must admit I never considered buffing until my Honda buddy put me onto it a few years ago. He would use his motor and wheel free roaming on the ground. I went to his house initially to buff some brass knobs.I had a sore back for a week after using his wheel. I also launched numerous knobs before I was done. I now use a beautiful old grinder motor on a stand with about 8 inch pads. I still manage to launch some bits but try to hold on as best I can. I am not eccentric about changing wheels for different compounds or turning the piece into a chrome wonder. I would say I practice the get er done approach. Follow up with a hand polishing with some Mothers and the finish stays good for about a year.

sns wrote:Now don't laugh. But wouldn't this work for the occasional maintain polish?:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/de ... 3&v=glance

I've tried a variety of polishing buffs in electric drills and never had any luck. They just don't spin fast enough to do the job. Soft creams splatter everywhere and need to be wiped up by hand afterward anyway. Hard compound bars don't work at low speeds. Cotton or foam pads on a 3" air polisher is the best thing I've found so far but it slings compound and fuzz all over the bike. The angle grinder idea presented here I'm sure will work but beware of touching the center nut to your aluminum.

After many years of detailing my Norton I'm resigned to hand polishing with Autosol or Mothers when parts are on the bike, and doing them propperly anytime they come off:

=ve been using my table top drill press w the pulleys set to the highest speed. i take it outside to polish and avoid the mess in the workshop. under 100 bucks at most places.