Welcome to the Access Norton Forum. Login as a VIP member to remove the advertising banners.


MK3 Restomod

Member's Norton Restoration Projects

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby Son of Siredward » Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:30 am

Looking good Ken!
Did you end up purchasing the mag wheels? Pretty good deal.
Son Of Sir Edward
User avatar

Son of Siredward
Posts: 138
- Images: 0
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2012 12:33 pm

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby worntorn » Mon Oct 03, 2016 6:24 am

Looks good Ken

Will this primary setup require a custom made primary cover?

Did the crank extend out to the outboard face of the rotor or did you use some sort of deep nut to pick up threads?

Glen

worntorn
Posts: 3419
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:43 pm
Location: Langley, B.C.

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:53 am

Son of Siredward wrote:Looking good Ken!
Did you end up purchasing the mag wheels? Pretty good deal.


Yep. Should be here Tuesday.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:06 am

worntorn wrote:Looks good Ken

Will this primary setup require a custom made primary cover?

Did the crank extend out to the outboard face of the rotor or did you use some sort of deep nut to pick up threads?

Glen


It will require a custom primary cover. It would have anyhow because of the starter brackets.

I used the stock Commando sleeve nut for the rotor. The rotor is approximately the same distance out on the mainshaft as stock, but because the stator is further out, I am looking at whether I can space the rotor out a bit more to match. I think the alternator will still work adequately as is, but if I can line up the rotor and stator better, I will.

If I had been willing to keep the 32 tooth front sprocket that comes with the starter kit, this wouldn't have been quite as complicated. But I really think I'm going to need the taller primary ratio to stay within the clutch's torque capacity.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby grandpaul » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:53 pm

Once you are certain what width you need for the pulley, you can maybe shave the alternator stator stand-offs down a bit, THEN space out the rotor. The more bite you have with the rotor nut, the better.
GrandPaul
author "Old Bikes"
too many bikes to list, including:
952 Prototype, MkIII Interstate, Combat Dunstall, Triton
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
grandpaul
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 9523
View Photo Album - Images: 30
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:11 pm
Location: Laredo (south) Texas

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Mon Oct 03, 2016 7:25 pm

grandpaul wrote:Once you are certain what width you need for the pulley, you can maybe shave the alternator stator stand-offs down a bit, THEN space out the rotor. The more bite you have with the rotor nut, the better.


Unfortunately, I've already done that. The stator is about as close as I can get it to the pulley already. I do have room to move the rotor out a little, and still have lots of thread engagement. As it is, the nut is almost bottomed out on the internal threads, so I have a little room to play with. But if I wanted to get the rotor centered in the stator, I would have to make a longer sleeve nut. I don't think I'll really need to do that. Part of the limitation is the design of the MKIII stator mount. If I want to make a new mount from scratch, I can get the stator a little closer to the pulley. Doesn't seem worth it.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby grandpaul » Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:40 am

Yeah, a longer sleeve nut is a good idea, it's been done (here on AccessNorton, I think)
GrandPaul
author "Old Bikes"
too many bikes to list, including:
952 Prototype, MkIII Interstate, Combat Dunstall, Triton
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
grandpaul
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 9523
View Photo Album - Images: 30
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:11 pm
Location: Laredo (south) Texas

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby Fast Eddie » Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:42 am

Les Emery's Norvil in the UK sell longer sleeve nuts off the shelf.

Although I imagine it'd be quicker and easier for Ken to make his own!
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
Fast Eddie
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 3479
Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2013 12:48 am
Location: Oxford, England

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby worntorn » Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:59 am

lcrken wrote:
Son of Siredward wrote:Looking good Ken!
Did you end up purchasing the mag wheels? Pretty good deal.


Yep. Should be here Tuesday.

Ken


At 28 pounds front and 32 pounds rear with tires etc, how do the weights compare with stock MK 3 wheels?

Glen

worntorn
Posts: 3419
Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:43 pm
Location: Langley, B.C.

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:28 am

I'll weigh them and post the data here

what-wheels-weigh-t25506.html

when I get them. I try to post the weights of the wheel with bearings and axle spacers, but no tires or disks. The weight of tires and disks varies too much, depending on personal choice. This way I can compare the weights of the wheels themselves. I've posted the weight of a stock MKIII front wheel, but not the rear. I have a bare rear, but no spare sprocket to weigh with it. It seemed to me that I should weigh them as a package, since there are no alternative sprockets. I'll see if I can also post weights of some combinations of wheels with sprockets, disks, etc., or maybe just the weight of the various disks, sprockets, and cush drives. Maybe compare tire weights too.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Wed Nov 02, 2016 8:27 pm

A little bit of progress today. Still waiting for a front pulley from Norvil, but I decided to do ahead and trial fit the engine. It looks good

Image

but didn't stay in long. Turns out I located the hose fitting on my read valve breather a little too close to the transmission. It fits, but the hose would be rubbing on the transmission case, so it's back out for me to move the fitting a little further to the left. Should be pretty simple.

Image

It's not a lot of progress, but Nigel has shamed me into at least posting something.

Actually, I have got a bit more done. I've finally got the mag wheels stripped enough to take to the shop that does the fluorescent crack inspection. Even if I decide not to use them, I want to know if they are still good. If so, they bring a pretty good price from the race bike restorers. And I've almost finished drawing up the fork yokes, so should be able to start on them soon. No CNC here, just mill and rotary table, so it might take a while.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby Fast Eddie » Wed Nov 02, 2016 9:57 pm

AHA .. it worked.. !

Glad to see you back on it Ken!

Ref the breather... why not just turn it upside down and route the hose under the transmission?

You'd gain the clearance and also have a neater hose routing, no?
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
Fast Eddie
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 3479
Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2013 12:48 am
Location: Oxford, England

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby Danno » Thu Nov 03, 2016 4:42 am

Or possibly you could hard-pipe it up past the trans case? Would make hose clamp access a little easier, too.
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
Danno
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2211
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:42 am
Location: Southwestern Illinois

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:25 am

Thanks for the suggestions, Nigel and Danno, I could probably plug the existing hole and tap a new one on the bottom, but it's no more work to plug it and move the fitting over a bit on top. Can't just invert it as is because it's not symmetrical to the mounting holes. I might consider making a longer fitting though. I hadn't thought about the easier hose clamp access. The next one of these I do, I'm going to use a different reed valve that will let me make the whole thing a bit smaller. I like running the hose routing directly up to the stock fitting on the oil tank, similar to the stock routing. Seems like going under the trans and then back up to the top of the tank would be more complicated. I had planned to make a custom aluminum oil tank, but in the interest of time, I think I'll just go with the original. Nothing really wrong with it except the wimpy mounting rubbers, and I can change those.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

Re: MK3 Restomod

Postby lcrken » Tue Nov 15, 2016 11:00 am

I removed the reed valve breather and relocated the hose barb. Also thinned the breather block a bit for more fore and aft clearance. Plenty of room now.

Image

This is a shot of the right side at this time.

Image

I've been working on the top mount. I'm using an old replica PR mount that I got from Les Emory a couple decades ago. As usual with a lot of his bits, it required some work to make it actually fit correctly, but it's looking good now. Just waiting for a couple of fasteners to arrive to install it.

I'm still waiting on a larger front pulley from Norvil. Discovered it was not their fault it hasn't been sent. I originally paid for it some weeks ago by credit card, and then sent a second payment for the shipping charges by paypal. Normal procedure with Norvil for overseas transactions. Just discovered that paypal never sent the money for shipping. Turns out that you can't send a payment in another currency with one transaction. You have to first tell paypal to make the payment in the other currency, wait for them to decide what the exchange rate is, and then go back to their site and confirm that you still want to send it. I missed that second part. I have now confirmed the payment, so I should hopefully be able to get on with the primary drive and starter installation soon.

When I get back in town next week, I'll drop off the mag wheels at the inspection company to be checked for cracks with a UV dye penetrant process. If they are good, they get painted gold and I start fitting them to the bike. If they have cracks, it's back to decision time again.

Ken
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
lcrken
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 2712
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:08 pm
Location: Southern California

PreviousNext

Return to Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests