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Ron L wrote:

How is the starter removed? I removed the two philips screws but the thing would'nt budge am I missing something?

Remove the primary cover screw that is directly below the rearmost screw from the starter. (There are three screws holding the starter).

Cheers thought there was only two. My starter removal is for inspection as its not engaging.

For inspection only - right. Sorry, I guess by the discussion of blanking plates and the fact that the bike is a one-kick starter I ASSumed that you had decided to permanently remove it.

Cheers thought there was only two. My starter removal is for inspection as its not engaging.

Then don't stop at the starter because your problem is no doubt with the sprag clutch or anti-backfire device and you will need to remove the primary cover, alternator stator, rotor, and stator mount. Hopefully your sprag is not toast. It's currently a $200 item.

Now if someone knows a jobber who will cut a deal on price, the part is REGP4127 (3C) from Renold, BWX1310145 (3C) from Ringspann, or DC4127 (3C) from Stieber. Maybe we could work out a group purchase? I have been unsuccessful so far.

Anyway, you often have problems with it engaging properly and several vendors recommend replacing the primary sprocket and drive gear with the spag.

MexicoMike - Is it becoming clear why many guys want to just remove the starter?

What are the #'s for the drive gear and sprocket?
http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g12.html

Engine sprocket - 06-4681
Item 32 http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g11.html

Starter drive gear - 06-4731
item 19 http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g12.html

I have had some luck with glass beading the friction surfaces of these parts. YMMV.

I made my own out of a piece of alloy skid plate tapped with three 1/4x20 holes and them mounted the horn to it by drilling a hole in the center. That way, the bulge doesn't look so lonely.

Danno wrote:I made my own out of a piece of alloy skid plate tapped with three 1/4x20 holes and them mounted the horn to it by drilling a hole in the center. That way, the bulge doesn't look so lonely.

I have a spare MK3 innercase which is reshaped (removed the bulge and then flatwelded) to the leaner looks of the pre MK3 chaincase. It is for sale, if you are interested just let me know