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Mk111 Project

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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Wed Apr 20, 2016 2:15 pm

No biggie. Will pull the head soon .
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Tue Sep 27, 2016 9:31 pm

Pulled head and barrels. Looks like both black rubber intake valve seals were hard as a rock. One was off of the valve end and riding up and down with it . Lots of carbon to scrape off because of this but cleaned up well. Piston rings gap good rear position on top rings but both lower rings gaps were gapped on the sides instead of opposite of the top one. Walls look glazed. I'll get a honing done ,refit the rings re:manual and fit new intake valve seals. The flame ring headgasket was not leaking. :?
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby grandpaul » Wed Sep 28, 2016 6:29 am

Good to hear you're back on it.

Keep it up...
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Wed Nov 02, 2016 4:16 pm

Rightside barrel had a gouge so rebored to .40 oversize. Now need to investigate high isolastics vibes.
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Fri Nov 11, 2016 6:03 pm

Isolastic washers were dry as a bone under their rubber covers , so sprayed them ( all 4 ) with Silicone lubricant. Moved the adjusters a little bit to set front and rear at .008 clearance. The front was at .006 and the rear .009 . The head steady will be replaced by a Dave Taylor unit when I put the barrels and head back on. Also I noticed that both the front and rear isolastic adjustable ends are located on the timing (R) side of the bike. My manual shows the adjustable ends as such : Front is timing side , rear to be on primary side. Should I be alarmed :o by this or not. ? Remember this bike vibrates more than other Nortons so I'm hoping to just lube and adjust.
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby L.A.B. » Sat Nov 12, 2016 3:08 am

Torontonian wrote:I noticed that both the front and rear isolastic adjustable ends are located on the timing (R) side of the bike. My manual shows the adjustable ends as such : Front is timing side , rear to be on primary side. Should I be alarmed :o by this or not. ?



The Mk3 front adjuster must go on the timing side, however, rear adjuster would normally be on the primary side but as the rear fixed abutment and adjuster are the same lengths they can be fitted either way but it will be slightly more difficult to adjust with the adjuster on the timing side as the battery tray bracket is wider that side.
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Sun Nov 13, 2016 1:58 pm

Good. Who wants to reverse the rear iso if it's not necessary. Frame was powder coated so this must be when it went in reversed.
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Fri Jan 20, 2017 8:24 pm

Winched the MK 111 upstairs with the help of Manse James (Our O.N.O. President ) and Robert Pytlik (Big Money Wasted ). Pulled all bodywork and exhaust system and battery beforehand. Going downstairs will be a different scene come spring what with barrels and head and carbs back in place refurbished ( Weight factor ). So I'm adding a breather valve. Tonight put in the new polished SS timing bolt after a struggle removing the original . Heat and cold (ice cube ) worked. Rear brake push-rod rubber cup must be replaced. Tips ? Also how to bleed rear brake properly after with new fluid ? Air filter foam was crumbling to bits. The handlebar assembly right twistgrip side remains sloppy on the bars. Thoughts ? Other than that all is proceeding well and my leg is healing. We leave soon. Indonesia. :)
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Danno » Sat Jan 21, 2017 4:36 am

That rubber cup is included in a rear master overhaul kit. Brake bleeding is straightforward. If the switch pod clamp doesn't hold the pod solid on the bar, add a couple winds of electrical tape. You can do the same with a twistgrip.
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby grandpaul » Sat Jan 21, 2017 10:12 am

Danno wrote:That rubber cup is included in a rear master overhaul kit. Brake bleeding is straightforward. If the switch pod clamp doesn't hold the pod solid on the bar, add a couple winds of electrical tape. You can do the same with a twistgrip.

Be careful when ordering brake master cylinder overhaul kit, inquire as to the exact contents. The last kit I bought did NOT include the plunger gaiter!
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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Deets55 » Sun Jan 22, 2017 4:38 am

I found that by using a syringe and force bleeding from the caliper works best. Then I bleed again, but this time in the normal way. I also think by leaving the pistons all the way in the caliper reduces the amount of air in the system prior to bleeding. Also pay close attention to the cylinder depth in the master cylinder. Too far either way will cause the brakes not to work properly. It can be as little as one turn either way that will cause a problem. I also use red rubber grease that is recommended for brake systems to lube the seals and pistons. Good luck.

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Re: Mk111 Project

Postby Torontonian » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:07 pm

Thanks. When we get back in the spring I will be selling off a lot of pre-75 parts , also my 72. I can't kick anymore , I now have osteoporosis which doctors are reversing with V. D3 and calcium diet and sun and mild weight exercise. The MK111 is looking good , loaded in new stuff. :)
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