Can somebody give me the distance between the pivot point and the cable attachment on the cluth lever? I'm using a late model Triumph perch and it is one Conan clutch SOB in spite of have the clutch stack set up properly. I'm thinking I may be getting more leverage with my setup and need to do the Atlas modification on the clutch rod actuator.

By chance, inside the gearbox, is the lever the clutch cable is attached to fully, "up"? As in it had not fallen upon installation?

That's a common problem with replacing the original clutch lever and perch with aftermarket items or ones from other bikes. I'm going from memory here, because I'm not close to my Nortons at the moment, but I had a similar problem years ago when I replaced the original control on my Production Racer after a crash. I put on a Tomaselli replacaement, and it would have taken a gorilla to use it comfortably. If I recall correctly, the PR came with a 7/8" spacing between pivot and cable end, and that gave a very reasonable pull. The Maguras and Tomasellis had anything from 1 1/16" to 1 1/8" spacing, and that was way too little leverage for the Commando clutch. I eventually found a Doherty lever meant for earlier British bikes that had the 7/8" spacing, and was perfect. I think the later standard Commando controls with switchgear and mirror mounts, may have had a 1" spacing, but I'm not sure of that one.

Ken

just checked mine on a stock bike. it looks like 1.125 from center of piviot bolt to center of hole for cable barrel.

Thanks, the Triumph spacing is about 1.4, maybe 25% difference. Not as much as I thought. Think I'll go ahead and modify the clutch rod actuator but that my not do it.

"Thanks, the Triumph spacing is about 1.4, maybe 25% difference. Not as much as I thought. Think I'll go ahead and modify the clutch rod actuator but that my not do it."

Expect lever pull reduction by 2/3 and a nice broad engament with the modified actuator. And a cable that lasts forever!

Is it possible to simply modify the Commando actuator instead of installing one from an Atlas? If so, how is it done. I need all the ease of pull I can get! Thanks

You bet.
http://atlanticgreen.com/images/clutcharms-2.jpg
More reading.
http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm
Make sure the actuating ramp is very even and smooth when you're done.

Commado clutch set up properly should be smooth and fairly light lever pull. Apart from the other good advice given, if the clutch centre splines are badly worn, the plates hang up on these and make lever pull difficult as well as dragging the clutch.

Mick

TVMI ! Looking at the picture and measuring it, the length seems to be increased by welding (?) on a section near the tip. It would seem to be easier, without a welder, to buy an Atlas part. Has anyone actually modified one? I had not considered the levers being a source of increased pressure but my bike does have replacement levers of an unknown make installed.

sidreilley wrote:TVMI ! Looking at the picture and measuring it, the length seems to be increased by welding (?) on a section near the tip. It would seem to be easier, without a welder, to buy an Atlas part. Has anyone actually modified one? I had not considered the levers being a source of increased pressure but my bike does have replacement levers of an unknown make installed.

I see what you mean about lever #1 looking shorter than the Atlas, but #3 and #4 are also Commando levers and they appear the same length as the Atlas. Could be the angle of the camera. I made the modification myself and it did do what Dave said that it would.

http://atlanticgreen.com/images/clutcharms-2.jpg

I looked at that picture again and it really appears to be a matter of the photograph. The levers look like they get larger going left to right. Anyway, Domiracer lists the lever for $30.

https://www.domiracer.com/comersus/stor ... duct=86213