That brake master cylinder is a Tokico part, typical Kaw/Yam/Suz/Hon bit, depending on the model/year. Thier newer 4 & 6-pot stuff is pretty nice with tiny master cylinders and full floating rotors, but purists will DEFINITELY frown!

DogT wrote:Here's what I know about rear mudguards, which is not much.
Dave
69S
edited to show mudguards all from the front.

Thanks for the info. It's always good to learn more about these machines. My bike is a May 1970 build, and the mudguard on the right in my pic (matches yours) is from it. The two upper holes mount to a secondary curved plate that attaches to the frame gusset near where the rear loop starts. Not sure if this is present on later machines: You can see it just below and behind the gusset in this not so good pic:

[EDIT: May 1970 dispatch according to NOC records, frame plate stamped D/69]

rightstickshift,

If you have or can get some pics of the later 69/70 rear guard mounting, I would appreciate it. My early rear guard is in bad shape, the blue one and it has a lot of bondo on it, the other one is in fairly good shape and if I could put it on my bike with the later mounting, it would be easier to get the later rear guard chromed. I'm not sure what parts I need to get the later guard on, mine mounts between the shock tops. Then I need to get the parts to mount it, which from what I've seen is a plate that attaches to the frame down by the horn, below the battery tray?

I have a friend not too far away, I need to go and see what his mounting is like, it's after mine.

Dave
69S

I'll see if I can get some pics and measurements of the bits from mine tomorrow afternoon.

RSR

Hi Matt Spencer so if the forks are Roadhoders how are they identified and are they salable ?. I want to run a TLS front brake so do I change out the lower legs on the forks and fit new ones to suit or is it better to start fresh. have been thinking about the frame not being the right type so maybe the bike had a accident at some stage and changed out the frame and front end , so someone made a good attempt with the ID plate and rivets ,well done, or can the bike be CORRECT other than the front end ? did Norton on the off chance do this type of thing ?.( The idea of a twin disc is nice through ). When i brought the bike it was to be matching numbers and a Norvil front disc arrangement , the bike was complete and all assembled but was told it was a project and the bike had been in that form for a long time.

Theyre DEFINATELY ' Roadholders ' ( NORTON , the worlds Best Roadholder ) Hence , factory designation ' Roadholder'
Suspension . The ones with steel covers have wee ' ROADHOLDER ' brass badges . I think I epoxied on mine , along with the
' Norton ' engraved gear box inspection cover , the 2 in round one , two screws & breather 1 mm hole .

DO NOT discard the forks ,

He has done a coustom bearing spacer tube in the front hub , Id think , to take the Norton Axle . Theres ' a wee few '
variations in lower ( alloy ) legs . Youve got some ' Twin disc ' ones there . IF youre throwing them out , throw them at ME.

Serially , ' One ' needs to acertain the use to which the machne is to be put . A drum will only slow you down a bit over
80 mph , One Stop from 120 and its a bit frazzled . Heated use in mountain passes could result in flying lessons overshooting
a bend over the revine , 20 + stone + baggage .

That Cowboy's ( ) Purple people eater , is to me the Ideal Steve McQueen Hoon Mobile ( NZ definition of Hoon, Not Aus .( Aww , That was a Hoon ( of a ride )) . So , Youve got the Coveted Early Triple Clamps , Ordinarilly fitted with rubber
boots , to keep the grit anhileateing the seals / bushes / staunchions .


The front wheel is NO ISSUE for the moment , BAR being robbed of Four Spokes ( Dang Japs ) ( countem , 36 ?? )

Early sidecovers are those hard edged things fit inside the rear seat brace area ( like Purple )

A flash Italian master cylinder would be an upgrade . Drum only superior if ALL youre rideings on Gravel .

Early spec is 3.00 19 Front ( Bar SS which is 20 ) IF youre finding a rear rim , Id find a WM3 18 , ( Yokohama 4.70 Knobbly )

A keen Kiwi could knock up a set of side covers from Fibreglass , between Beers .

Fairly difficult to scrape the two pipes up there . The SS has one Ea Side .

Late iso rubbers , dust covers , ( probly allready fitted ) Carbs if Junk , IGNORE . FIT NEW .( Scoured bodies / slides Loose )

I prefer Points , BSA A 65 30 deg 6MCa . ( marked " 15 " , norton marked " 12 " )
And if you ever want to see another BEER , If the COILS are marked ' 6 V ' , Throw them in the Tide .Worlds worst coils .
Possible to develop severe coplexes running 6 volt coils ( marked on base )

Pretty Basic . No Big Hammers , No Tantrums !

Invercargill.... Isn't that where Burt Monroe of the Indian fame came from?

They used to say they were 50 years behind the rest of the world down there . Explains a few things , like 1922 Indians

http://www.burtmunrochallenge.com/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-M5ZOiuOJf8

SOUTHLAND is the Provance , Invercargill a Town .

Yeh its real Bert Munro territory down here, its a great week down in New Zealand's Mainland, true Southern Man Territory not for the faint hearted or north islanders. Yeh it wasn't that long ago when the dust blew down the main street and a persons mother and father where brother and sister or so the rumor has it but seriously the towns only mildly backward but thats Auckland, we in the City of Invervagus are a highly intelligent society of friendly,fun loving,evolutionary, forward thinking bunch of good buggers, thats why i choose this forum of like minded enthusiasts to help myself through this fun time of restoring a true English classic on the other side of the world or just a good yarn no matter where your from.

Third Line , sounds like ' the Media ' . , used to be viewed , early seventies , that the world ' was going downhill with
the throttle stuck & the brakes didnt work ' , but was unaffected down in those parts . Everyones ' Affected ' in the E.C.B.
these days , the smart ones were planning to get out then , to avoid the steamroller A.R.C. and Amalgamations .We had
a election sign , with " Say NO to Fat Cats & Beaurocrats " up the hill come election time .Hows young Tim the Mayor ,
his concreteing days are past , or has it evolved to another level . Cold snap at the moment according to the weather fivecast , and in Mid Summer too . Must be a Conspiracey , there all complaining its not snowing in the U.S. Theyll think
you lot have made off with it .

Check your P.M.s ?

DogT wrote:rightstickshift,

If you have or can get some pics of the later 69/70 rear guard mounting, I would appreciate it. My early rear guard is in bad shape, the blue one and it has a lot of bondo on it, the other one is in fairly good shape and if I could put it on my bike with the later mounting, it would be easier to get the later rear guard chromed. I'm not sure what parts I need to get the later guard on, mine mounts between the shock tops. Then I need to get the parts to mount it, which from what I've seen is a plate that attaches to the frame down by the horn, below the battery tray?

I have a friend not too far away, I need to go and see what his mounting is like, it's after mine.

Dave
69S

Dave - I am rebuilding my 1970 Roadster - and must admit that up till now I thought the "S" and the Roadster were identical apart from the exhausts. If it helps, my rear mudguard is the same as the chrome one you showed in your photo (one on the right). It attaches in three places: 1) - at the rear of the seat frame loop - using a "U" type bracket that also conects to the rear light fairing 2) using the saddle type bracket which bolts to the bulkhead on the frame behind the battery and the 3) (which I think you are asking about) to the two bolts which come from the back of the battery tray and which also hold in the place the doubled horn bracket.

The parts book for the 69/70 models is mute in this area (and a number of others!) but the two bolts are 1/4" UNF by 1" long. They start at the small bracket welded to the back of the battery tray - pass through the horn brackets and then go on to pass through the rear mudguard followed by a small aluminium plate and are finally all held together by nyloc nuts. There is quite a collection of plain washers, star washers, plain nuts and nyloc nuts there - if it helps I could trawl through my shed and try to photgraph them for you.

Let me know if this is what you wanted to know - and if it helps I will go and find them - however it is sub zero outside at present and threatening to snow - so "I might be a while"!!

All the best, Mark

Thanks Mark,

No don't worry about any pic, I've figured it out. My friends 133061, Jun 69 was undoubtedly an S model and he has the rear guard like yours with the bracket off the web. Mine is 132031, Apr 69. So sometime in between there they switched the rear guard and mounts. Mine only mounts with 2 bolts off the bracket between the shock tops and only the centre bolt from the horn bracket like you describe, with plenty of nuts and washers with the bolt coming from the front. My guard also reaches down a bit farther than the new one.

Although my rear guard is the only one I've ever seen mounted like that. Right now I'm using a chromed 71 guard, but it's missing the notch for the pump and I had to drill 2 holes in it for the bracket between the shocks, plus it's flat on the top, not round like my old one.

I'm thinking I'll get my old guard repaired and chromed at some point, if it's not too dear, since I've got all the parts.

Dave
69S

OK Dave, glad you've got it sorted.

Trying to fathom these early bikes, with the lack of detail in the parts book, is sometimes a bit like doing archeology: trying to piece together the small bits you have to make a complete story.

Good luck with it

Cheers, Mark

I was lucky, mine came complete in 72 and I kept all the parts. However, I always thought the Dunstall valve covers were standard, I'd never seen any others until later. That 68 spares book leaves a bit to the imagination, and I've found some mistakes.

Dave
69S

Well back on the nett now that the kids used all the internet over the holiday break. Just made a few inquiries at a bike shop in my local town that deals in Norton bits and pieces he has offered a straight swap for a latter frame with yokes to suit and he wants the front end as well and willing to exchange stock parts as well. is this a good idea.