Welcome to the Access Norton Forum. Login as a VIP member to remove the advertising banners.


Getting the Matchless on the road

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby OzT » Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:34 pm

hi, can someone advice me how to wire a kill switch on the SR1 mag please? I know I need to run something to earth somewhere on the LT side but if someone coudl point to an article somewhere or tell me how here please?

Thanks in advance..... :)
Ed
1973 Norton Commando 750 Roadster
1959 Matchless 500 single
User avatar

OzT
Posts: 55
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 7:38 am
Location: Chessington, England

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby Rohan » Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:49 pm

You need to add/connect a wire to the wire that goes to the points.
And run it up to the handlebars, to a kill swicth.
When the kill switch connects your wire to earth, it takes away the power = no spark.

So your kill switch is usually not connected, and when it does connect it earths out the maggie.

This only works for the SR1.
Many other magnetos have points that rotate, which complicates it somewhat.
Twin cylinders are (mostly) a different kettle'o'fish again, although the SR2 is as above.

Rohan
Inactive
Posts: 8217
Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:30 pm

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby Rohan » Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:51 pm

P.S. Don't you have a valve lifter ?
Thats the usual way of killing a single ?

It can't go very far when you let all the steam out....

I distantly recall that the SR1 had an insulated connector for the condensor, that was also external to the casing.
Thats where the kill switch wire would go to ?

Rohan
Inactive
Posts: 8217
Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:30 pm

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby OzT » Sun Jun 18, 2017 3:30 pm

Right, long time since the last post but only last week I actually finished the bike, got it insured and on the road! Was really really great hearing it thumping down the road. After a few miles and clear of traffic, come you a lovely sweeping left hander that goes down to the dual carriageway, open the throttle and back went zig zaging down the road. Luckily I managed to stay on and get the bike to a halt on the side of the carriageway. I had ripped my rear inner tube valve out. thought I had checked/replaced everything forgot about my 35plus years old inner tubes! I have managed to get front and rear tubes and on the bike now, yes I replaced the front one as well though I am keeping it got emergencies. So next week hopefully I will go on a decent ride!

thigs I did:

the SR1 mag. turned out was a combination of condensor and bad HT leads. Now all good. I even wired up a cut out switch from the back of the mag just in front of the barrel. now no more having to choke the bike to a stop with hand over the air intake.

I did in the end take the barrel off. Wished I had waited to wire the cutout AFTER I took the barrel off, been much easier! But checked the rings, took them off and clean them and checked gaps, big end, all good. Oiled the rings put all back on.

Brought new head bolts and also, and this made a huge difference as it did blow a bit before, new head bolt washers. I torqued it down to just over 28 lb/ft, 52 nm.

Took ages to get all old rust out of the tank, and then coating it with some stuff I got from Amazon as the first time I just put petrol in it just started rusting again within a few weeks.

Complete clean and reset of the concentric carb.

New cables all round.

Then just general tidy up, cleaned the clutch, had trouble with the rotor scraping the alternator and getting the chain case very hot, but cured that now. Checked wiring, only need a new headlamp bulb.

Now only a few things not 100% right. But going to take the bike out for a longish shakedown run next week and see what happens.

what's not 100%

My head light only goes on dip, not main, even though the warning light does come on. this is because the push and twict end connector does not line up with the 2 solder blobs on the bulb. Have added a thin piece of metal to the bulb solder high beam side and sometimes it connects, but run the bike for a few minutes and no high beam again.

I have started leaking, at standstill, oil out of the drive side bearing! Never ever done that before, and I have had the bike since 1976! Either I have started wet sumping and oil now goes over the bearing, or the 20/50 oil I am using is not good for it and I need to get straight 50. I have checked and clean the breather, seems good to me. maybe 20/50 oil now not as good as it used to be in the 70s?

My side stand needs taking off and put under a press to see if I can straighten it. It has got bent over the years, probably from riding off with it down and hitting the road on my first left hander. But it's such a bugger having to remove the whole primary case to get at the bolt thru the frame. But on the side stand it looks as if the bike's going to fall over, needs a handy curb to put the stand on! :)

I think that's all the known problems, none making the bike a non runner but not good.

Anybody got ideas on the oil to use, 20/50 or straight 50, the oil seeping out the drive side bearing and trouble lining the head lamp bulb up with the connector?

anyway, here's how the bike looks now with the new proper handlebars.

Image
Ed
1973 Norton Commando 750 Roadster
1959 Matchless 500 single
User avatar

OzT
Posts: 55
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 7:38 am
Location: Chessington, England

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby OzT » Sun Jun 18, 2017 3:37 pm

Oh one other slight problem I am having and I don't understand.

My clutch. It only engages right at the end, just before I reach the end of the lever. I have checked the push rod, there's a bit of play on it, there's a slight gap on the cable when at rest. But when I pull the clutch in, no worries it disengages perfectly gear changes no cluncks.

but it doesn't engage again until right at the end, where by then I have opened the throttle expecting to bite before then and it loosk and sounds silly lol!

I have run out of ideas what other adjustment there are. It's an AMC clutch to go with the gearbox. All plates are a bit worn but not bad at all.

As I said, I adjusted the push rod by screwing in the centre screw till it touches the rod then back off, the clutch cable itself has about 1/8 inch play on it, but the clutch doesn't engage till right at the end of the release stage. I'm out of ideas, help!
Ed
1973 Norton Commando 750 Roadster
1959 Matchless 500 single
User avatar

OzT
Posts: 55
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 7:38 am
Location: Chessington, England

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby grandpaul » Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:48 am

Cool old bike with a 4-year gap!

Sounds like something might be "hanging up" on the clutch actuation, then popping into place at the end of the lever release.
GrandPaul
author "Old Bikes"
too many bikes to list, including:
952 Prototype, MkIII Interstate, Combat Dunstall, Triton
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
grandpaul
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 9743
View Photo Album - Images: 30
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:11 pm
Location: Laredo (south) Texas

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby OzT » Mon Jun 19, 2017 1:17 pm

It's almost like I am one plate short grandpaul, but I am not. Was fine before but no idea now. I am 99% sure I have the adjustment correct but something obviously not right.

will work on it, when it gets cooler! Too hot in the garage at the mo!
Ed
1973 Norton Commando 750 Roadster
1959 Matchless 500 single
User avatar

OzT
Posts: 55
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 7:38 am
Location: Chessington, England

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby Triton Thrasher » Sat Jun 24, 2017 8:13 am

If the clutch doesn't slip or drag or strain your wrist, don't try to fix it.
User avatar

Triton Thrasher
Posts: 1085
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:27 am
Location: Thurso, Scotland

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby Rohan » Wed Jul 12, 2017 3:28 pm

Check that the clutch pushrod can operate smoothly in both directions. ?

Nortons reportedly drilled the mainshaft from both ends, and they don't always meet neatly in the middle.
This can cause the clutch pushrod to bend in operation, and may cause binding.
The solution may be to cut the pushrod into 2 or 3 bits, and harden the cut ends.
May cause a bit of trouble extracting them, if needed...

Could be your cable action going overcentre though, check carefully ?
Didn't Nortons (AMC) alter this to improve this ?

Rohan
Inactive
Posts: 8217
Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:30 pm

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby Triton Thrasher » Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:16 pm

With regard to inner tube failures- the tyres should have higher pressures than the values in the old handbook. Tyres are different nowadays.
User avatar

Triton Thrasher
Posts: 1085
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:27 am
Location: Thurso, Scotland

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby grandpaul » Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:02 am

If you are going to cut your clutch pushrod, make sure to use a ball bearing in between the 2 segments.
GrandPaul
author "Old Bikes"
too many bikes to list, including:
952 Prototype, MkIII Interstate, Combat Dunstall, Triton
User avatar
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
grandpaul
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 9743
View Photo Album - Images: 30
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:11 pm
Location: Laredo (south) Texas

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby Onder » Sun Jul 16, 2017 6:03 am

Question on the bars: how tall are you?
Im not very so I prefer low flat bars and always have.
Tall bars seem to make bikes a bit squirrelly steering-wise.

Nice bike. Do thinks correctly so you dont have to walk home.

Onder
Posts: 1157
Joined: Tue May 11, 2010 5:16 pm
Location: Albany, NY

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby N0rt0nelectr@ » Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:55 am

OzT wrote:cheers John for that, so it seems 30 years ago when I junked the half width hub for the (better looking) full width hub I actually did the right thing? No both front and back are 19 inch wheels, the stays were what I could find to put the new stainless guards on.

Going to have a bash at the SR1 mag. It was working before I put the bike away and it is really quite simple I think, just a bunch of copper wires going round a magnet and a coil in there. Heck if MacGyver can make a radio receiver/transmitter from nothing more than a match box, bits of copper wire and a Swiss army penknife sure I can take the mag apart and maybe see something wrong?
Or not....

Never know if you don't give it a bash I reckon!

I'm going to leave the piston in the barrel. the cylinder has no rust, still a film of oil, and I think the rings will be ok. I haven't got a ring compressor and putting the barrel back on has always been a case of balancing it on thumbs of two hands while I push the rings closed one at a time with a small screwdriver, bugger when it comes to the cords oil rings! I know the big end's solid, went to the local engineering shop before I put it together last time to push the pin out and the bearings were good. after taking the head off and realized I didn't need to is holding me back from pulling the barrel up. Though I have a nagging wee bloke sitting on my shoulder, think he's called common sense, that I should just lift the barrel off to have a look.

This week I'm going to make sure the wiring's ok with the battery on. one reason I rather stick with the mag, no worries about having a good battery to start!


The SR1 mag is almost bullet proof. External condenser easy to get to points sweet.I have one on my 55 AJS 18s. Just hook up a plug to the plug wire and give it a kick, it might just surprise you. The wiring is as simple as it can be, which makes life a lot easier.

John in Texas
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
N0rt0nelectr@
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 336
View Photo Album - Images: 7
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:15 pm
Location: Texas & Arizona don't ask

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby N0rt0nelectr@ » Sun Aug 27, 2017 10:20 am

I picked up a 63 G80 in June and as I slowly work out its issues. Needed to flush the oil tank but didn't have access to a parts washer. Picked up some "Super Clean" at Walmart comes in a 1 gal jug in the automotive area. It is a non petroleum based cleaner / degreaser. Took the small pump out of my wife's table top fountain, set it in a plastic tub and filled up the tank. let it run for several hours moving the hose from opening to opening, feed, return, vent that sort of thing. Make sure you wear rubber gloves as that stuff will take the natural oils right out of your skin. The tank is clean and the paint is still good.
John in Texas
Access Norton VIP Paying Member
N0rt0nelectr@
VIP MEMBER
Posts: 336
View Photo Album - Images: 7
Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:15 pm
Location: Texas & Arizona don't ask

Re: Getting the Matchless on the road

Postby OzT » Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:09 pm

Image


Hi guys, bile been running well last couple of months, since the puncture I have had usual teething problems but all fixed.

Until this one. Last couple of days bike had oil all over the head after a fast (well 70mph) run, discovered now it came from that hole in the photo in the rocker box. that is the other end of the oil feed into the rocker, between those 2 dabs of red hermitite.

Anyway, never really noticed that hole before, but guess it's from drilling the oil feed gallery to the valves. Now when I rev it oil comes out.

Has anyone got a rocker box handy they can have a look for me please? I suppose there was a plug there originally, but whet did it look like? don;t think there's threading in that hole but was it a plug into the hole or was it a plate?

I have googled the net intensively, looked at many pictures of rocker boxes, looked at manuals online but no mention of pluging that hole. I

If no one has any ideas think I will just glue a plate over it to stop oil coming out, and also to keep the pressure I guess to keep the valves lubed!

many thanks guys!

cheers

Ed
Ed
1973 Norton Commando 750 Roadster
1959 Matchless 500 single
User avatar

OzT
Posts: 55
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 7:38 am
Location: Chessington, England

PreviousNext

Return to AJS & Matchless

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests