I've been using inexpensive RK 530 chains (about $30) on my Commando with good results and change them once a year at that price. For X ring chains DID VM series are highly rated, have one on another bike and it works well

1up3down wrote:The guy just wanted to know what size chain to buy for his STOCK sprockets, that's all.

DogT wrote:I wonder if this will get as long as some of the oil threads?

Dave
69S

Freaking hilarious. You guy's crack me up.
That all I wanted to know. The 520 is the stock chain and what I should buy.


Just kidding. I'm just yankin' your chain.

When we started the prototype testing, the bikes had 1/4" chains. Back then we didn't have the "clever" stuff with O rings, etc. I had the 1/4" chain break when doing about 105 mph on the test track. We'd found that we needed to do a chain tension adjustment about every second tank of gas. and were really pushing hard for a wider chain.

It was my understanding that the 3/8" chain became standard equipment before the bike ever went on public sale.

In the 1950s and 60s, there was a product on the UK market whicn had a graphite-loaded grease in a flat round can. You took the chain off the bike and rolled it up into a spiral'. Then you put the can of grease on the kitchen stove and heated it until it liquified. Once it was liquid, you put the rolled-up chain into the can and let it cool. When you took it out of the can, the chain was loaded with the graphite lubricant. Put it back on the bike - good for another 5000 miles. There may have been a competing product that used molybdenum disulphide instead of graphite.

bluto wrote:I've been using inexpensive RK 530 chains (about $30) on my Commando with good results and change them once a year at that price. For X ring chains DID VM series are highly rated, have one on another bike and it works well

This is the exact same brand chain I took off. Been looking online and they are all rated for like 400cc max.
So going to the cheap chain is maybe not such a good idea.
I'll pay for the right chain to handle this bike.

I ran both 530 standard chain and 520 O-ring chain on my race Nortons for years. Nothing wrong with the stock 530 chain as long as you don't mind a little maintenance now and then. I liked the lower maintenance of the 520 O-ring chain, but with the limited mileage race bikes see, it wasn't a big deal. I originally went to the 520 to give me enough clearance for a larger rear tire. On a race bike you also save a little weight, part of it unsprung, by going to the 520 chain and sprockets, but I doubt it's very significant.

There's no difference in strength between the same make and model of 530 vs. 520 chain. The extra width of the rollers doesn't add any strength. The big difference is in chain and sprocket wear. The narrower 520 will wear out the chain and sprockets faster. Not sure if that matters much with steel, but with the aluminum rear sprockets I was using, the 1/4" 520 sprockets wore noticeably faster than the 3/8" 530 bits.

I'm still running a normal 530 chain on my street Commando, but I don't put on a lot of miles any more. If it was daily commuter, I'd probably go with the 520 just for the low maintenance of the O-ring.

Frankdamp, it was a yellow and blue tin similar to a round biscuit tin and calle d Duchams, we used it a lot in NZ with our Brit bikes and first MX'ers before we knew much about O ring chains. you put the whole tin on the stove on medium to low heat with the chain in the tin, when suitably liquid enough , pull the chain out, drip dry and cool down, and very sticky. Let tin cool and solidify contents, replace lid and store until next needed.
Regards Mike

Stiring chain in metal or graphite dusted grease is bar none the best way to get economy out of chains but should properly be flushed first in paraffin/kerosine/diesel first. Ain't just 520 drum teeth that suffer before their time.

STD 530 chain about 100 links, the heavy duty 530 will probably rub

I like that Chain-Wax product.Just apply as directed when chain is warm.I dont think that the maintenence on the
standard chain is a problem.
YING

I ordered a new brake drum as the teeth were really worn.
I haven't looked at the front sprocket But I would imagine it should be replace as well, no?
I'm pulling the primary today. Next stop, the trans for bushings and bearings.

frankdamp wrote:In the 1950s and 60s, there was a product on the UK market whicn had a graphite-loaded grease in a flat round can. You took the chain off the bike and rolled it up into a spiral'. Then you put the can of grease on the kitchen stove and heated it until it liquified. Once it was liquid, you put the rolled-up chain into the can and let it cool. When you took it out of the can, the chain was loaded with the graphite lubricant. Put it back on the bike - good for another 5000 miles. There may have been a competing product that used molybdenum disulphide instead of graphite.

One was called "Linklyfe", it was available into the 90s in fact I'd be surprised if it wasn't still around. Nothing made you feel like you were doing the right thing by your chain than pulling it out of the vat of molten molybdenum disulphide. Definitely something you did when your significant other was not around, if the kitchen stove was your source of heat.

Gary

(Quote) In the 1950s and 60s, there was a product on the UK market whicn had a graphite-loaded grease in a flat round can. You took the chain off the bike and rolled it up into a spiral'. Then you put the can of grease on the kitchen stove and heated it until it liquified. Once it was liquid, you put the rolled-up chain into the can and let it cool. When you took it out of the can, the chain was loaded with the graphite lubricant. Put it back on the bike - good for another 5000 miles. There may have been a competing product that used molybdenum disulphide instead of graphite. (Unquote)

I bought a tin of Putoline Chain Wax a couple of years back. It is different to the old Duckhams product, IIRC, seems to be graphite loaded and is not a grease, but a wax which is solid at room temp. Heat up the tin and contents, coil the chain in, and let it get good and warm, just like the Duckhams. I think you have to be careful to make sure that the chain itself gets warm in the tin, as well as the contents. This tin will last me a long time, and I do the chain annually , as work committments keep me off the bike much more than I like. This on a stock 530 chain.

So every 530 chain I have found on the web has had a rating not to exceed 500cc.
I looked at RK, EK Bike Master, DID. So whats a boy to do.
I by no means pull hole shots, wheelies or the like but I do ride fast thru the turns.
So just any std 530 chain for around $40 will do?

http://www.oldbritts.com/alt_065441.html

Probably Rabers up the road from you will have it too. Maybe even Phil in San Jose. Or your local bike shop.

Dave
69S

Guido wrote:So every 530 chain I have found on the web has had a rating not to exceed 500cc.
I looked at RK, EK Bike Master, DID. So whats a boy to do.
I by no means pull hole shots, wheelies or the like but I do ride fast thru the turns.
So just any std 530 chain for around $40 will do?

The cc ratings on current chains are generally conservative and are for modern bikes that make way more power per liter than the classics also the modern 530 chains are probably stronger than what came on Commandos back in the 70's....I did break a chain on a Commando way back then but have not on the one I ride now with a RK 530