lrutt wrote:There is a guideline that says to buy the best example you can and start with that. Otherwise you will likely end up in the red.
I disagree. As examples:
It costs the same amount to powdercoat a frame in good shape as a rusty one.
It costs the same to paint a fair tank & sidecovers as it does to paint a really scratched up faded set.
It costs the same to replace worn out rod bearing shells as it does to replace only slightly worn pieces.
It costs the same to clean out a fairly decent engine & sludge trap as it does filthy, grimy ones.
It costs the same to replace good used tires as it does to replace totally bald ones.
It costs the same to....
...well, you get the picture.
I feel if a person is looking to do a total restoration, they should start with the least expensive, RELATIVELY COMPLETE rolling project bike as possible. A barely-running but rideable bike is a great basis for a total restoration for someone looking to say they "did the whole thing"; the fact that it's running is a big hurdle, and you know the critical parts are all there since it's rideable .
PLENTY of folks have "ended up in the red" even when starting with VERY NICE "donor" bikes. The restoration game is not a money-maker; I'm only persisting in it because I have the luxury of being debt-free (except some credit card debt), and loving to do what I do. If I had to be servicing a mortgage or even a typical car payment, I might be working 8 to 5 to make ends meet.