Porno delight. What will this crank be put into to stress it?

It is going into the new 914 cc motor to replace the worn out 880 in my fuelie bike. 45000 miles now and it is sounding kinda loose. Jim

comnoz wrote:It is going into the new 914 cc motor to replace the worn out 880 in my fuelie bike. 45000 miles now and it is sounding kinda loose. Jim

And what kind of rods are those?

Carillo?

Hortons Norton wrote:Carillo?

Yes they are Carrillos from several sets I had made up for my racebike years ago. They are .5 over stock length and go with short pistons. Jim

Is there bushings in the small ends of those rods?

914 sroker fuel injected super duper everything else, hm, yum, that'd fast shove you into hinged handling on nice sweepers, I'd highly recommend while deep into it to put your talents on rump rod and see if it don't make you crazy as me never looking back, as no one going be passing you when there's any leaning involved. My guesimate is 66 lbft , 87 hp.
What redline are you going to respect?

Your flywheel is similar to Peel's. That round rim just begs to be a load bearing jump rope resisting surface. Alas surface translation speeds eliminate normal rotating elements like rollers or bushes, oil vaporizes so fast it pressurized the gap and diesel explodes and metal to metal contact returns the alloys to elemental states beyond gas phase straight into plasma phase of matter with the electrons all striped off. Air/gas bearings can/t take the flex shock loads of big twin hits, it ain't no turbine. If sacrificial babbit material was in close relation to the flywheel the exploding softer/lower melt pt. metal would repel and greatly resist crank jump rope, for a time at some excessive rpm. Maybe with Norton head only a boosted engine could flow to those rpms.

There is another way with no metal surface translations nor central bearing via planetary/elliptic gears messing in pure linear to rotory motion. Forked big end rods required.

RennieK wrote:Is there bushings in the small ends of those rods?

They are copper [?] plated small ends. Done before plain ends with DLC coated pins were common. I will be using DLC coated pins also. Jim

[quote="comnoz"]Great, I love porn. As long as it's dirty motorcycle parts.


And here is the 91 mm crank ready for the new engine I am building for my bike.
It weighs 24.5 lbs. 2 lbs more than a stock crank. It is balanced to 60%.




Jim, I take it this is the crank for your current engine rebuild, do you have any more photos of the crank dissaembled showing how the counter weights are retained ?
Also, with the offset on the bigend what bearings do you end up using ? doesn't weaken the crank any more than a std one ?

Splatt, This is going in the new motor I am building. Yes I have been concerned about weakening the crank by it's offset grind. To try and make up for some of what I have removed I installed 2 1/2 inch bolts and a heavy walled tube through the journals. Time will tell if that is going to hold. The counterweights are bolted to the crank with 3/8 inch flathead screws. Rather than posting more pictures I will just give you the link to my photobucket. Look in the projects folder and you will see all the crank pictures I have. Jim

http://s658.photobucket.com/albums/uu31 ... 2QQtppZZ20

What VW engines are these special cranks taken out of?
How does the engine sprocket attach to the PTO part of the crank?
How would the crankcases be modified to utilise a centre bearing?

pouchy750 wrote:What VW engines are these special cranks taken out of?
How does the engine sprocket attach to the PTO part of the crank?
How would the crankcases be modified to utilise a centre bearing?

The cranks were made from 1/2 of a 1.6 liter Volkswagon Rabbit diesel crank. The drive sprocket is attached by a ring of 5- 5/16 inch bolts.
For the center support I built a 3/4 inch thick aluminum plate that was split horizontally with 4 bolts to hold it together over the center main.
In my first design, it was attached with bolts run radially from the outside of the case after machining and welding in bosses.
The second design had the center plate sandwiched between the two case halves after removing the correct amount from the flange.
The first design worked better but required too much welding which weakened the cases resulting in cracks.
There were also two long studs that run from the center support through the barrel with nuts in countersinks under the head gasket.
This is a picture of one of the cranks installed in a second design support. The cases in this picture were cut from billet but I also used a similar support in stock cases. You can also see the crank pulley. Jim

More - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAQuljp- ... re=related

comnoz wrote:

pouchy750 wrote:What VW engines are these special cranks taken out of?

The cranks were made from 1/2 of a 1.6 liter Volkswagon Rabbit diesel crank.

What did you use for main bearings ?
The center main would be easy to use the VW bearing, but what about the ends ?

Is the stock oiling system adequate ?
Thanks.
Ian

Ian,
I used the VW bearings on the ends also. I made a steel bushing with the VW ID and the Norton OD and made a special tool to press the bearing inserts in from the side. I removed the tang from one shell and cut a relief in the bushing for the other tang.

I used a custom built oil pump in the stock position for pressure and another pump in the mag area for scavenge. Jim