grandpaul wrote:Spend $50 more and get braided stainless steel with chrome banjos & button head banjo bolts.

So it's $75 so you won't feel bad about spending more for the stainless braided one?

grandpaul wrote:Spend $50 more and get braided stainless steel with chrome banjos & button head banjo bolts.

The plastic original type do have some advantages. The braided stainless act like a hacksaw on anything it touches from the vibes. Also never had a plastic oil line leak, but my stainless a while back leaked from the banjo connections..got it stopped.

Dave,

I've always been a proponent of twin 32mm Amals on my combat. This week took delivery of a used 34mm Mikuni setup.
W will give it a try. Already fitted it up and the air filter delivered doesn't clear the original cleaner backing plate. May need to find a shorter K&N.

illf8ed wrote:

grandpaul wrote:Spend $50 more and get braided stainless steel with chrome banjos & button head banjo bolts.

The braided stainless act like a hacksaw on anything it touches from the vibes.

The kit from Old Britts has a clear cover to prevent the marring.

Old Britts stainless rocker feed lines have a heavy clear plastic coating.

grandpaul wrote:Old Britts stainless rocker feed lines have a heavy clear plastic coating.

What he said.

swooshdave wrote:

Speaking of which, why is this $75? Three banjos and some plastic tubing...

Ouch!

http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/

065561 ROCKER OIL FEED PIPE £ 22.48

With VAT, shipping etc it may get to $50? I chose to stay 'original' here as the braided hose with stacked banjos looks less pleasing to my eye, at least.

Just my ha'pennyworth (VAT & decimalisation not included)

B+Bogus wrote:With VAT, shipping etc it may get to $50?

There's no VAT (17.5%) added to items sent outside the EU, although of course for some countries, there could be import duty to pay when it arrives?

CLeaned these up a bit. They still were a little greasy. Need to finish the gearbox before the inner can go on. Luckily the alternator studs are still attached.

Are those hairline cracks radiating from the center stud hole on the backside?

Typical evidence of former improper spacing of the stud/case clearance AFTER tightening the 3 main crankcase screws. Worse examples also exhibit cracking at the 3 screw locations.

grandpaul wrote:Are those hairline cracks radiating from the center stud hole on the backside?

Typical evidence of former improper spacing of the stud/case clearance AFTER tightening the 3 main crankcase screws. Worse examples also exhibit cracking at the 3 screw locations.

Good eye. But if you are familar enough with the cracks back there you already know that they are just the casting marks.

OIL TANK

So I started the next part, the oil tank. I pulled out the fuel tank and seat and started to see how it'd fit together.


First good news is that there is plenty of clearance for the headsteady (which is still unfinished but let's not go there...)




The traditional Proddy mod is to trim or fold over the top seam of the oil tank. What I really need is to get all the mounts (fuel and oil tank and seat) and really see where everything will sit.



Oh, and if I am going to mod the way the oil tank mounts. I hear the stock setup is less than desirable.

I hit a few parts with some spray paint. The ends of the center stand mount where left un-powdercoated so I touched them up. Also the side cover mount.



And I need to start thinking about the oil lines before I get too far.



Does someone have a clear guide on which lines go where? Hey, let me answer my own question...
http://www.oldbritts.com/oillines.html

oops

pvisseriii wrote:This oil line diagram is a good guideline and is pretty much all you or I need, but I wish i could see it in the early 72 version.

Preferably this general area.

I'm pretty sure it's exactly the same aside from the oil pickup location. Routing of lines, etc. is identical, I believe.

yikes