In Australia there are a few specialist frame and fork straighteners.
Perhaps if you ask one of the local racers or race teams they may be able to recomend a reputable engineer.
Ed Milich at bimotacagiva.com would be worth an email, he's in LA I think and races Cagivas and Guzzis.
I know that with a Ducati they like to have the frame with the engine and swing arm and back wheel together, thats how he did my Mk3 too.
If you plan on having it checked or straightened profesionally, I wouldn't take it to anyone other that a specialist.

Regards Graeme.

Graeme is correct. Nobody would argue having the frame checked by a profesional with Commando experience is good advice.
But it would be interesting to know how many folk on the forum do this? Especially the guys that do a lot (Granpaul..?).
I am not a profesional restorer, just a shed dweller, so I took this route...
I inspected the bike prior to strip down, for signs of damage or repairs to the frame....kinks, welds etc...I also aligned the back wheel to the front wheel and checked they were in line...no offset. I also looked from the back at this point and checked the back wheel was parallel to the front wheel in the vertical plane...i.e. looking for a twisted swingarm.
It all looked good. (These alignment checks are crucial) I continued to check for damage during stripdown that would concern me, especially around the headstock, for signs of a front end impact and found none.... so I powdercoated it and built it up.
I can let go of the bars on the move and the bike is rock solid, but maybe I was lucky.
I did strip an Ironhead sportster and had it straghtened without needing to repaint once though...

I just lay it out on the shop floor with a straightedge and level. As Stu says most damage tends to be visible, fork stops take a whanging in a front ender.
You can check the neck with a plumb bob.
Norton frames used to be so cheap I just changed them out but now I'd probably have one straighened if I found damage.

When I first got the bike the front end was on and complete (see first picture). I assume no front end accident. If I recall the bike was probably taken out of service due to a blown gearbox I seem to remember a bunch of gearbox parts in a pail.

The frame looks really good no kinks or dents, I will give it a good eyeball before shoving it out the door. Thanks.

Usually if one front end stop is caved in that's a hint. The two times that happended to my Commandos it mooshed the right hand one.

You can start by checking the frame for these dimensions:
http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norton_workshop/img/f/f04.gif

(These are for a 750 frame, an 850 has a 62 degree headstock angle)

That must be from the workshop manual? I recall checking the head angle by puttin a pipe through that just fit. Then I measured it with a protractor.

Her's a thread along the same lines......

newest-member-with-few-questions-t4309.html

My brother sent a box of parts. Flat rate from the US Post Office is a good deal. 23lbs for $15. And my sister-in-law got rid of a bunch of plastic shopping bags...





Front disk (needs a little care)
Rear brake drum
Front iso (MkIII friendly)
Swingarm spindle
Oil filter kit (I think this converts it from the stock filter to a more readily available model)
Muffler brackets
Misc. stuff.



And the bad news, one of the switch covers was broken during shipping. I actually remember sandblasting this one MANY years ago. With any luck I should be able to find another one, perhaps at a swap meet.

If you're wondering what the numbers on some of the bags are, it relates to the Group number in the parts book. When I took the parts of the bike (MANY years ago) I tagged and bagged them. Inside the bag is the part number I wrote on a piece of paper. Back when my handwriting was legible.

Good luck Dave. By the way, where did the tank come from?

I may have some switch gear spares.

Rob94010 wrote:Good luck Dave. By the way, where did the tank come from?

I may have some switch gear spares.

I believe Waldridge, who may get them from The Tank Shop.

I have to look more closely at the switchgear and see what's needed.

Frame and other parts dropped off for powdercoating. Be about two weeks. This is the guide I sent along. We'll see how good they follow it.



Also having the front disk blasted and then I'll take it to get turned. Then painted. Any recommendations on what to put on the bare metal of the pad sweep area to protect it until it gets used?

Blue low-tack masking tape.

grandpaul wrote:Blue low-tack masking tape.

Luckily I have some in my tool box. Thanks!

You'd darn well better hustle if you hope to have that sucker put together by AHRMA @ PIR!