Color tune

by **splatt** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:51 am

O2 sensor is way more usefull ,also way more expensive, when using O2 sensor you see why MIKUNI make so many needles and needle jet configurations.

by **batrider** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:53 pm

As I remember the directions say not to rev it up because the glass could pop out. Thanks for posting about these things. I forgot I have one somewhere around here and could sure use it on my Matchless single right about now. Useful for resetting the idle after a carb has been resleeved. They were a good deal on eBay when I got one a few years ago. Mine was new but maybe 20 year old stock.

EDIT - Found my Colortune 500 and read the directions but there was nothing about running at high RPM, however none of the tests they mention are done with the engine at high RPM. I do seem to remember reading about this though... Never mind....hate to start an Internet myth.

Was really stuck to the foam inside the case and had a devil of a time taking it out.

by **speirmoor** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:16 pm

What is considered good combustion colour?

by **batrider** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:21 pm

"Bunsen blue" they call it.

Orange is too rich. Just like a Bunsen burner.

by **swooshdave** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:55 pm

batrider wrote:As I remember the directions say not to rev it up because the glass could pop out. Thanks for posting about these things. I forgot I have one somewhere around here and could sure use it on my Matchless single right about now. Useful for resetting the idle after a carb has been resleeved. They were a good deal on eBay when I got one a few years ago. Mine was new but maybe 20 year old stock.

EDIT - Found my Colortune 500 and read the directions but there was nothing about running at high RPM, however none of the tests they mention are done with the engine at high RPM. I do seem to remember reading about this though... Never mind....hate to start an Internet myth.

Was really stuck to the foam inside the case and had a devil of a time taking it out.

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/colortune.html

by **batrider** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:22 pm

Good to know this. My booklet seems ancient by comparison and only deals with idling, but the unit looks identical.

by **montelatici** » Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:27 pm

Don't buy it. It is useless, frankly unless you have a dyno. I bought (and still have) one about 25 years ago. Unless you can watch when the engine is under load, you will only optimize your idle mixture.

by **Flo** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 5:48 am

montelatici wrote:Don't buy it. It is useless, frankly unless you have a dyno. I bought (and still have) one about 25 years ago. Unless you can watch when the engine is under load, you will only optimize your idle mixture.

I agree, but you can't knock it for idle mixture. Useless for anything else. Only reason I have used it for the idle is because I already had one so it didn't cost me anything.

by **maylar** » Sat Sep 04, 2010 6:03 am

I have one, but my Norton likes a bit more rich mix than the "ideal" spot, so the tool is only a guide for the starting point. On my brother's inline 4 ricer the color tune is the only way to get 4 cylinders set up right. It really does work.

Be aware that the tool comes with a plastic shroud tube for viewing the flame, and if you let the engine get too hot the tube will melt into a gooey mess. DAMHIK.

by **commiedommie** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:34 am

I use mine just to set up the idle mixture but I find it prefers to be a bit richer than the Colortune suggests. A problem I'm having is that after running it for a few minutes the spark starts to track across the (quartz?) window and it has to be allowed to cool down before it will work again.

Back in the 70's I had an early model Colortune before the specific bike Colortune was introduced. It looked more like a regular spark plug where what is normally white insulator was all clear material. One day when using it to set up my Dommie Monobloc there was a loud bang and the clear part of the plug shot past my ear. Since then I've always been reluctant to raise the revs above idle when Colortuning!

by **hobot** » Fri Oct 29, 2010 7:18 pm

For last decade on other lists I've learned that Color tunes are at best usless and at worse give wrong reading. Can not be used to tune but for idle mix. By gosh and by golly trail and error if only way to go on our old bikes. Even Comstock EFI don't use no stinking Color tunes which likely can't read right with new lean clean burn gasoline. Only extra expensive wide band O2 sensors give useful reading outside of WOT. If nit picking on old school plug chops, even that really requires cutting plug open to see base of porcelain.

A side note on heat range selection, thermal stain should show up on plug side of the electrode bend. Some soot on plug thread rim flat is desirable finding.

hobot

by **john robert bould** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 12:25 am

Colour tunes are a complete waste of time! The old plug chop is infact a better indication. Unless you can see what's going on under all throttle positions . Simply reving the engine on its stand is no good. Engine load and slide openings will produce rich and weak mixtures, but because these are short you donot notice them. As long as the overall effect is average "correct" .

batrider wrote:"Bunsen blue" they call it.

Orange is too rich. Just like a Bunsen burner.

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