OK...the manual says 70 and to aply the rear brake.

We applied the brake, took it off the centre stand, and had my buddy sit on the bike and the torque wrench still spun the tire before clicking!

Am I missing something?

Thanks

STOP! More to follow.

The book is old and 70ftlb has been shown to shear the circlip behind the clutch locating washer. 40 foot lb',s and a dab of blue loctite is optional.
Put it in High gear will help with torquing.

Thanks

I backed it off and came inside as it didn't seem even possible to get it to 70.

At times like thta I usually come inside and consult those with more experience than I

Bubberstone wrote:OK...the manual says 70 and to aply the rear brake.

Yes, A lot of broken brake cables have come from this method.

Is the 40 Ft lbs for the rotor nut as well

I take it your primary chain is still in place? Wedge a piece of wood between the sprocket and the chain. No need to apply the brake and you can get all the torque you need.

Bubberstone wrote:Is the 40 Ft lbs for the rotor nut as well

60-70 ft lbs for the rotor nut.

Thanks guys...great help . Maybe I'll get this heap on the road one of these days.

Hm, my first 'wisdoms' on this disappeared. Anywho mostly covered above.
BUT if you tried to get 70 ft/lb on it, then likely have already boogered the wimpy circlip. Order a few as should replace about each time clutch serviced.
When you feel the clutch nut start to seat but still able to turn nut some more,
that's the circlip being bent over. I use a 'bent into a curl' dental pick to fish it out.

hobot

slupdawg wrote:I take it your primary chain is still in place? Wedge a piece of wood between the sprocket and the chain. No need to apply the brake and you can get all the torque you need.

I would not do that although many have done it. Wedging wood of something of the like between the chain and gear introduces a tremendous amount of pressure on the chain and shafts. Enough pressure to pull the gearbox over and totally out of wack. The adjuster being on the other side cannot support such force even with gearbox bolt tightened. Stretching the chain is also possible. You may get away with it but I would not advise it.

If I've a wheel mounted I place my seemingly undue stress near the rear rim spoke nipples with hammer handle or stout wood stick. If no wheel on then Big vice grips to grab chain or wood block to wedge chain. If you can put on enough torque to injury the spokes nipple or twist up transmission gears then you've over torqued the sprocket nut or clutch nut. 70 lb-ft is ridiculous as there in little side loads to push sprocket or clutch off - everything is spined - so just good enough to not come off is the off the manual goal. Clutch nut is prone to come undone though so 40 lb-ft sounds good to me with any grade loctite. Even with stud strong red loctite you will not have any trouble undoing the clutch nut at 40-50 lb-ft.
You got to vice grip chain pretty tight but you'd have to hurts you hands to injure chain but for outer finish. You can also wire a big kink in chain and let that roll to a jamming stop. Avoid 3-4 ft long breaker bar eh.

hobot

hobot wrote:If I've a wheel mounted I place my seemingly undue stress near the rear rim spoke nipples with hammer handle or stout wood stick.
Clutch nut is prone to come undone though so 40 lb-ft sounds good to me with any grade loctite. Even with stud strong red loctite you will not have any trouble undoing the clutch nut at 40-50 lb-ft.


hobot

I have bent spokes doing that and if resd loctie is used an impact will be needed to get it off in the future. Use the Blue and a good tab washer.

Alternatively, use the 06-1015 clutch locking tool (with a long lever attached if necessary) when tightening/loosening the clutch or rotor nuts!
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/SI%20Se ... 0Tools.htm

L.A.B. wrote:Alternatively, use the 06-1015 clutch locking tool (with a long lever attached if necessary) when tightening/loosening the clutch or rotor nuts!
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/SI%20Se ... 0Tools.htm

i find these tools to be pretty useless as made - the handle bends way before the required torque - but you can drill a large hole in it and mount a large bolt (or two) and use this to put a wrench or some other device to hold the clutch assemble while tighting the clutch bolt. I also find blue locktight works best for holding the clutch nut in place (you can skip the goofy washer and just use a lock washer with the locktite too if you don't have one) - its easy to determine if the nut comes loose while motoring, which i had happen before the suggestions above with the locktite - your clutch will need constant adjusting, and if you pop off the inspection cover you'll see the clutch assemble rise/move off the shaft when the clutch is applied -