you can use the same shim at both locations. the inner side between inner and stud to stop from pulling the whole primary case out of line. not all need shimming on the inside but you can try it this way, (between the 2 halves ) shim it till you have approx .010 gap without the O ring at the parting line. this way all the pressure is not trying to bow the outer case inward.

kwoody51 wrote:Looking at the diagram it appears the shim is not between the inner and outer cover but between the stud on the engine and the inner cover. I'm visualizing how the inner cover could be bowed in or out based on its length and mounting points.

So is there sometimes a shim needed between the inner and outer cover as well?

[quote="bill"]the strange thing is they seem to be coming in vogue over your way. guess you lot are slow to see a fad

[quote="SteveA"]

Oh! I don't know Bill...Easy Rider was made in 69 so it didn't get into British cinemas until some time in '70.....I was 16 or so and took a job pumping gas to get my first powered (two) wheels....The local cafe racer boys used to come in to the gas station to fill up....

Nortons, Dommis and such really, Tritons and Triumphs....all clip ons, rear sets...stock tanks and seats mainly.....studded jackets, new fangled jet helmets...

Then one by one they showed with ape bars, even still had the bare clip ons still on the fork legs, turned out to substitute for extra lamp mounts, but without the lamps...and still with the rear sets....probably because they no longer had the standard kit. Must have made for a interesting riding position....I guess they were in such a hurry to follow the fad they had to fit the bars straight away rather than do the whole thing.....

And from '70 then it only took about 2 1/2 years for Norton to come up with the Hi-Rider....another 6 months to get in show rooms....pretty rapid by new model standards

But that bit about the Hi-rider on Andover Norton's site is interesting....only about 50 sold...and apparently some of those were modded to sell as Roadsters, so maybe it was the Norton importers that fitted that tank, seat and smaller bars?....but by the comment on the headlamp, don't ride it at night

The mounting stud is bolted to the engine cradle. Due to manufacturing tolerences the inner cover is shimmed to take up any gaps when attached to the engine cradle. If not for the stud it would be "free-floating' on the right and nothing to support the weight. The shimming---if indeed needed---goes here---on the back side---facing toward the engine cradle--the shim/shims are placed on the shank of the stud---then the inner cover is installled. When the mounting bolts are torqued to spec--the inner case "should" be nice and snug ---not tight---not loose. This is where I go to the right side of the bike--use a long flat bladed screwdriver and try to spin the washers---this tells me --"by feel" if the shimming is correct or not.
As far as placing a shim on the stud "inside" the case to shim the outer cover to .010"---? This is the mystique of the whole Norton community. Everyone, including myself, has their own particular methods and procedures they follow while performing these routine services and repairs---and-----they are all correct as long as the end result works.
Sometimes while working on the Nortons i recall the movie "Flight of the Phoenix". Out of the ruins of a crashed airplane--a German Toy maker manages to assemble parts to create a flying machine to fly the survivors to safety. IN NO way would the FFA ever allow this thing to get off the ground let alone declare it airworthy---but it worked for them.

I never put a shim between the inner and outer cover. Just torque the outer cover bolt to 25 ft/lb like it says in the manual. Plus I do add a bit of silicon in the groove at the bottom before the o-ring to keep the oil in it's place. Works for me.

Dave
69S

The front sprocket in the primary cover is giving me some fits, is there a trick to get it off..... other than beating it silly?! I've got a proper sprocket puller and I applied some heat to it. I've already indented the little hat that goes on the end of the puller so I'm a little weary to twist it too much more, but can if that's what it takes.

Thanks for the help!!!

If you have the sprocket puller installed and have it tensioned pretty snug---what I have done is take a brass or solid aluminum drift and a medium ball peen and give the sprocket a good rap on one side---this sometimes will jolt it just enough to break the taper fit and the sprocket will pop right off.---Don't tap both sides---just one side you don't want to force it on any tighter. When refitting----be sure the tapers are clean---and dry. Also i use a new toothed washer when refitting ---and torque to specs.

With the primary off , you have good access to the 3 bolts that hold the engine to the cradle .
Make shure they are (very) tight . Also a good time to check if the gearbox sits straight in the craddle : check crankshaft and mainshaft for parallelism . put a dab of silicone over the hole where the selector fork spindle threads in ..

I'll give it another try tonight, I did take a hammer and punch to the sprocket, but I was hitting it all around. I'll give it some heat, tighten up the puller and beat the crap out it.

Sounds like I am on the right track, just wanted to confirm

Unless you have an Oxy/Acyl tanks to heat it quickley---using just plumbers propane heat will only heat up both the sprocket and the crank at the same rate--usually no heat is needed---just the puller and a sharp rap on the sprocket will pop it off.----Unless---someome used locktite or epoxy to install it with----then--you may have a problem getting it off---just don't damage the crank.

It's off! When it came free I swore I broke one on my puller bolts or the sprocket, it was that loud

Glad to be done with that hassle, hoping the rest of the process is smooth going