Tulsaalva wrote:Can you tell me about how thick and how wide the strap needs to be, L.A.B.?

I don't have an original tie strap handy, but I would guess around 3/4" wide by 3/16" thick would be fine for steel or stainless steel? Maybe a little thicker for aluminium but I don't think it's that critical although it may be more likely to fracture than a steel one?
I expect alloy C channel would work OK?
I'd probably go for the stainless option myself, in fact I may very well end up doing just that, as the strap that came with the tank that I have is just a piece of rough steel.

I thought I'd show y'all a picture of the ol' Bonny as it progresses on it's way to breathing fire again.

As y'all can see, I've painted the red panels on the UK tank black and fitted it.

I removed the wide American bars and replaced them with BMW R90S bars. They actually aren't BMW bars. A friend made them for me. He used his jig for the BMW "S" type bars but made them with 7/8" tubing instead of 22mm. They fit perfectly after a lot of adjusting of the master cylinder so it would sit upright.

The seating position is perfect! Exactly what I was looking for. Now I'd like to find a fairing much like the old R90S or something like Paul Dunstall used to make. Any suggestions, y'all?

I'm really beginning to like the Special and looking forward to putting some miles (actually, kilometers... the speedometer is still the one that was on the bike in Germany) on it! I can see, though, that I'm going to have to beat Fifteen (He'll be sixteen on Saturday and legal for over-250cc motorcycles.) to the keys. Should I require that he spend an hour polishing for every hour he rides?

I owe a huge "THANK YOU!!!" to this website. Otherwise the bike would still be gathering dust in the storage building.

Next comes the Long Range. The squirrel-chewed wiring will make it a more difficult project, I fear.

Al

Tulsaalva wrote:I'm really beginning to like the Special and looking forward to putting some miles (actually, kilometers... the speedometer is still the one that was on the bike in Germany) on it!

That's good Al. It all seems to be coming along quite nicely.

Tulsaalva wrote: I can see, though, that I'm going to have to beat Fifteen (He'll be sixteen on Saturday and legal for over-250cc motorcycles.) to the keys. Should I require that he spend an hour polishing for every hour he rides?

Over 250cc!

He'd only just be old enough to ride a restricted 50cc (moped) on the road displaying 'L' (learner) plates until qualified, in the UK at sixteen after completing a CBT (compulsory basic training) course! And then only allowed a restricted 125cc at seventeen.
If he passed the A2 motorcycle test then he would be restricted to a 33 BHP bike for two years, so he wouldn't (legally) be able to ride the Bonneville until he was at least NINETEEN!
I would tell him how lucky he is that he doesn't have to abide by the UK (I think Europe [EC] is much the same) regulations, -and that's got to be worth at least two hours polishing! http://www.apexmotorcycletraining.co.uk/licences.html


PS
I'm curious to know if you received the files (manual & parts book) that I emailed to you?

I did receive the emails with the files attached, L.A.B., but haven't been able to download them. It gets about half-way through when the prompt "Timed Out" appears. I don't know if it my Macintosh or if the files are too large.

I appreciate your efforts. I am able to get by with the Factory manual and a Clymers. I'd appreciate your mailing address, if you don't mind. I'd like to send you a little "thanks" gift.

Al

Fifteen (his name on this board will change to Sixteen on Saturday.) took the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Beginning Rider Course shortly after he turned fourteen. The completion certificate, along with a successful written test, licensed him to ride a 250cc (or less) motorcycle with some restrictions.

Under Oklahoma law, a fourteen year old rider:

1. Must wear a helmet.
2. Can only ride between 3:30AM and 9:00PM. (The early hour is to allow kids to have a newspaper delivery route.
3.. May not carry a passenger, and,
4. For the first thirty days must have a motorcycle-licensed driver with him, either on another bike or in a car. After that he is able to ride on his own.

Since I'm a former MSF instructor, I worked with him after he passed the MSF course, in our neighborhood, fine tuning his control of the bike as well as evasive maneuvers, traffic safety, good braking techniques, etc. I must say I'm pleased with his progress and his maturity in riding.

At age 15.5, a teen in Oklahoma can get a limited learner's permit for a car. He must pass the written test and have a licensed driver, over 21, in the front passenger's seat. At the time he had the auto learner's permit added to his license, the DMV left the motorcycle endorsement intact but failed to include the 14 year old restrictions. He never took advantage of the mistake, though.

We started him in the family mini-van with automatic transmission, went to his older brother's '87 944 automatic, and then my 928S five speed to teach him to shift gears. Fifteen's car, an '82 924 five-speed, a project car I've owned on for years, is almost ready. It has new brakes, braided stainless steel lines, Pirellis, "silber-blau" paint, interior, tinted windows and body rubber throughout. I also have a '78 924 automatic that is finished except for paint, which I hope to do this week if the weather cooperates. Our agreement is that he must drive the '78 auto until it is sold. Then he will get the '82.

I don't know how we would deal with high school if sixteen-year-olds couldn't drive. Our sons, during football season, have to be at marching band practice at 6:50AM daily. They have a practice on Tuesday afternoons, Thursday evenings and a football game every Friday. Band practice begins in July and runs through November if the football team makes the State Championship playoffs, which they always do. This year we won the State Championship. When one includes trips to private music lessons, Jazz Band practice, Rock Band practice, the music store for guitar strings and reeds for their wind instruments, Latin Club, and German Club meetings, chauffeuring them around would be a real hassle!

Al

L.A.B. wrote:

I would tell him how lucky he is that he doesn't have to abide by the UK (I think Europe [EC] is much the same) regulations, -and that's got to be worth at least two hours polishing!

I did tell him that and suggested he read this thread. I think he'll do that after school today. Our sons are very lucky kids!

Al

Tulsaalva wrote: It gets about half-way through when the prompt "Timed Out" appears. I don't know if it my Macintosh or if the files are too large.

OK, I have an alternative that I will try...

Tulsaalva wrote:I appreciate your efforts. I am able to get by with the Factory manual and a Clymers. I'd appreciate your mailing address, if you don't mind. I'd like to send you a little "thanks" gift.

Well! That's very kind Al - Thanks very much!

Tulsaalva wrote:At age 15.5, a teen in Oklahoma can get a limited learner's permit for a car. He must pass the written test and have a licensed driver, over 21, in the front passenger's seat.

17 is the UK minimum age to drive a car, and a learner must also be accompanied by a qualified driver in the front passenger seat. Our theory test is taken later on though and must be passed before the practical test is taken.


http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Dr ... DG_4022547

Tulsaalva wrote:chauffeuring them around would be a real hassle!

That's more or less expected over here now I think, but of course the distances travelled over here in our small and somewhat overpopulated country would be nowhere near as great?
Not that youngsters would be able to drive to many UK schools anyway, as there would probably be nowhere to park!

Gentlemen,

The Special is finally together with a new battery and fresh fuel. The fuel is the highest octane available, 91 octane. All lights work except the turn signals and the brake light but that should be pretty straight forward. I'll get to that later.

Sixteen and I cannot get it to start. It ran just fine when it was parked in 1998. My brother put it in mothballs so I'm not sure what he did but it ran beautifully when he did it.

There was no fuel in the tank or the carbs when we started to bring it back to life so I assume Billy drained both.

There appears to be no spark. I tested it the same way I test 924s, by properly hooking up a timing light and, in this case, kicking it over. We get no flashing light from the timing light.

Kicking may also be part of the problem. Sixteen has never kick started a motorcycle before and I, haven't kicked a bike since 1969. It was an old Triumph 500 and started quite easily during the year I owned it. Can y'all give us some tips on starting techniques and where to start troubleshooting the spark problem?

When Sixteen kicks, there are two "notches." He easily kicks through the first, but compression stops him from going through the second "notch."

I'm going to go back down to the garage and try taking out a spark plug, grounding it against the head and watching to see if there is spark. I'll let y'all know the results.

I have found a young mechanic here in town who knows the new Triumphs but hasn't a clue about the classics, so it seems we're on our own. Years ago there was an older fellow who worked on them but I haven't been able to find him. I'm still looking.

Thanks a lot, y'all! I look forward to your replies!

Al

As your T140 is a 'D' model, then it should have a Lucas 'Rita' electronic ignition system fitted, and should also be a Negative Earth/Ground system? Unlike previous T140 models that were +ve Ground.

Obviously if as you say, there is no spark, then you will need to check the wiring and connections to the Rita (type AB11?) box, and also the pickup wiring? As it has sat for so long then it could have developed an electronic fault, but I suggest you check through all the wiring first? And check that the battery power is actually reaching the Rita box?
Bypass the ignition and kill switches if necessary, to see if that makes any difference?

The "two notches" sounds like your valve adjustment is off and you have better compression on one side than the other.

Check 'em.

Trace your 12 volts as suggested, bypassing switches as needed to complete a good circuit.

Battery voltage is important.

L.A.B. wrote:As your T140 is a 'D' model, then it should have a Lucas 'Rita' electronic ignition system fitted, and should also be a Negative Earth/Ground system? Unlike previous T140 models that were +ve Ground.

Right you are, L.A.B. on both the Rita ignition and the negative ground. I have a spare unused Rita if it is needed. I hope not!

Obviously if as you say, there is no spark, then you will need to check the wiring and connections to the Rita (type AB11?) box, and also the pickup wiring? As it has sat for so long then it could have developed an electronic fault, but I suggest you check through all the wiring first? And check that the battery power is actually reaching the Rita box?
Bypass the ignition and kill switches if necessary, to see if that makes any difference?

As mentioned above, I have other electrical problems, the turn signals and brake lights. These, of course, would not affect the ignition, though.

Thanks for the tips; I'll check it through.

Al

grandpaul wrote:The "two notches" sounds like your valve adjustment is off and you have better compression on one side than the other.

Check 'em.

Trace your 12 volts as suggested, bypassing switches as needed to complete a good circuit.

Battery voltage is important.

Thanks, Grandpaul! I would never have thought of the valve adjustment as a factor.

The battery is new. After I added the acid I put it on a "battery tender," designed to maintain voltage in a battery sitting for a period of time, for about a week. It should be very strong.

I'll also check to see if the squirrels harvested any nest-building material from the wiring like they did on my old Commando. I haven't seen any evidence of that so far.

Does anybody have any tips for Sixteen on kick-starting techniques? My faded memory tells me there was something about finding the top of the compression stroke before kicking. I tried kicking it over myself but my 134 pound, sixty-eight year old body is just not equal to the task.

Also, I seem to remember that the bike can "kick back" if the ignition timing is off. Is this true and, if so, can it cause serious damage... like a broken ankle or something?

Al

Righty-O. Find TDC of a compression stroke and nudge just past it a touch.

Then, stomp on it with your weight shiftng to give it all your weight.

I weighed 130 for most of my Britbike iding years, and have only put on 10 or 12 pounds in the last 10 years; I never had a problem kickstarting a properly tuned bike, and not a lot of problem kicking fussy ones. It's all in throwing your weight correctly.

Also, once the bike is running right, you shouldn't kick it on the stand, you shoud kick it free-standing. A bit trickier on the balance, but easy once you get the hang of it.

grandpaul wrote:Also, once the bike is running right, you shouldn't kick it on the stand, you shoud kick it free-standing. A bit trickier on the balance, but easy once you get the hang of it.

Is this to avoid damage to the center stand, Grandpaul?

Al