Guys,

Since the weather is so crappy, I am going to have my tank acid dipped and re-sprayed. The PO used that nasty Kreme tank sealer and I want to get rid of it as well. I have a good paint guy here is St. Louis but I need to supply him with the decals that will be clear coated over. From your experience, where is the best place to find these?

Johnnymac wrote:Guys,

Since the weather is so crappy, I am going to have my tank acid dipped and re-sprayed. The PO used that nasty Kreme tank sealer and I want to get rid of it as well. I have a good paint guy here is St. Louis but I need to supply him with the decals that will be clear coated over. From your experience, where is the best place to find these?

Ask him his he can use stencils etc for tanks/sidecovers - if he's a good painter glossing over the decals wouldn't be the best (see Brents paint job's in the for sale section for reference etc)

I am sure that he can paint it using a stencil. I am sure there is an added cost to doing so. I will check.

So I guess my question now is:

Where is the best place to get a stencil AND decal?

Got my die-cut decals from Old Britts. I wanted it stock appearing so no stencils for me.

I saw one post where the guy sprayed the tank gold, the same color as the script, and then used pin stripe tap and a decal to cover the gold and the painted the tank black.
When it was dry he removed the pin strip tape and the decals to show the gold underneath and then clear coated it. Sweet look and no raised "Norton" lettering.
From the factory they did the pin stripe by hand but used a decal for the script.
I'll be doing my tank also this spring and will use the gold underneath method because when I did it this last summer the decal bubbled.
Sanding off all that base and clear coat was a bitch. I'm not going thru that hell again.
Maybe I didn't let the base coat gas off enough, I don't know.

Granted, painting over decals is not a great idea because of the possibility of bubbles, but if you want to try, I got some peel and stick on decals from NZ jcmiller@xtra.co.nz They are not rub on like the Andover or Old Britts ones and are a bit more substantial. They will take 2 pack paint according to the distributor. I just use my decals over clear coat, but I find the Andover ones gather dirt around the edges from the glue where the NZ ones don't. I got 2 complete sets for about $30 delivered.

It's nearly impossible to get a double colour, like black with gold outline on Fire Flake Blue without hand painting unless you use decals, or pay to have someone hand paint it.

Tank is NZ, panel is OB or Andover.



Dave
69S

DogT wrote:Granted, painting over decals is not a great idea because of the possibility of bubbles, but if you want to try, I got some peel and stick on decals from NZ jcmiller@xtra.co.nz They are not rub on like the Andover or Old Britts ones and are a bit more substantial. They will take 2 pack paint according to the distributor. I just use my decals over clear coat, but I find the Andover ones gather dirt around the edges from the glue where the NZ ones don't. I got 2 complete sets for about $30 delivered.

It's nearly impossible to get a double colour, like black with gold outline on Fire Flake Blue without hand painting unless you use decals, or pay to have someone hand paint it.

Dave
69S

Not only bubbles but some decals lift (or melt) w/ certain types of paints - though i'm sure the norton decals we all get are of high quality or tested and approved

You can also contact Andre at www.reproductiondecals.com
He bought and restored my old Commando and offers Norton decals on his website. He can also do copies of your originals if they're not listed.
His products are widely regarded as the best quality by the Jap restoring crowd, as that is what he does the most of, but since buying my Norton, he's started doing some Brit stuff as well.

Stock decal is proud of the paint surface if going factory.
Can clear coat over most any of em w/o an issue but DO NOT expect to cover thick enough to ever get rid of evidence its a pastie and not painted on more effort way. If you attempt to clear coat thick enough to make it look like a stencil then better study up on hi end paint chemistry and tech - as bad looks can happen. In long term its easier to remove evidence of a stencil than decal. Most sign makers can make stencil no as easy as printing out text.

Thanks Guys. I ended up going to the Die cut ones from Old Britts. I called them to inquire about their transfers but they said that the no longer sell them as they get very brittle with age.

I dropped my tank off at the shop today where it will be dipped in acid and completely stripped down to the bare metal. Finally no more Kreem in my tank. I'm going to start from scratch. The tank will look good as new in a few weeks.

My Interstate used waterslide decals on the sidepanels and vinyl decals on the tamk - I masked and sprayed the pinstripes.
Now kicking myself for not using masks for the tank logo - the lumpiness is quite noticeable compared to the sidepanels, where the VMCC-sourced decals just melted right in... with no yellowing.





When I finally got a credible fireflake blue on my Roadster tank I used masks throughout - including a pre-drawn sidepanel pinstripe mask.
!00% pleased with how it turned out - I'm not looking for 100% 'correct', but as correct as it can be whilst remaining a practical ride (including 90mph on the M6 in January rain to go to the Leyland Vintage Club show with my learning-not-to-scream 12 year-old daughter on the pillion).

Being 2-colour made life more interesting, but what's life without a challenge?

Andy,

You painted those 2 colour logos on the FF Blue? If so could you explain how?

Dave
69S

DogT wrote:Andy,

You painted those 2 colour logos on the FF Blue? If so could you explain how?

Dave
69S

Dave,
After I lacquered the flake (around 5 coats) I masked the black using a stencil I prepared earlier.






Once that was dry I flatted it off to get rid of the inevitable ridge left behind by the mask, overlaid a smaller stencil, masked the pinstripes and sprayed the silver.



After flatting off the silver another 2- 4 coats of lacquer went on, with the emphasis on building it up around the graphics.

Some fairly aggressive sanding of the area over the graphics followed, then final polish.
If I'd been charging by the hour....

The die cut vinyl decals can be cleared, but beware of adhesion issues. My procedure is to apply a light coat of clear on the paint and let it dry over night. Then apply the decal and scuff it all, including decal, with Presta Scuff Stuff - a paste equivalent to 1200 grit. Then finish the clear. Not doing this step can lead to clear lifting off the vinyl.

Cool. I have been told by painters that to paint a 2 colour logo is not feasible. Maybe it's the time/price involved. I may play around with it if I can make the stencils. I'd like to do my original colours of black with metallic gold outline on my FF blue on the tank and gold with black outline on the panels and use the very early Norton font on the tank.



Dave
69S