Here is how I would do it. Lay the bike carefully on it's right side. Put your knee on the frame just behind the rear shock. with your right hand, pull up on the frame loop. You'll have to pull pretty hard but around 2 or 3 hundred pounds of pull should do it.
So, seriously, I would wrap the frame in masking tape and then build a wooden piece to go into the rear loop. Using deck screws I would sandwich the rounded piece of wood into the rear loop. Then build a similar wooden piece to go right where the rear shocks mount. On this one I would take in both sides with a piece of wood between the shock mounts. Screw a 2 x 4 across the top long enough to also connect two wood blocks on the outsides of the shock mounts. Now, drill a 1/2 inch hole down through that set of wood blocks at about the center of the frame. Then drill the same dia. hole through the wood blocks mounted around the end of the loop. Bolt a 2 x 6 on its side across both sets of wooden blocks sticking out the back of the frame at least 6 feet or so. Now strap the bike to a wall on its right. Pull the 2 x 6 away from the wall until the frame is straightened out!! That should to it.
Cheers.

Whoa whoa whoa... save yourself the time and headache, don't chip or burn your powder coat by attempting to bend or cut or weld. Here is what you do to the frame:

Nothing.

Here is what you do to the FENDER. Sell it on ebay and use that money to put toward a fender that has not been drilled for mounting. You see where I am going with this... Line up your fender, drill and shim if need be.

I walk the path of least resistance

Just checked my frame rear loop..its 1/2 over to the right! are they all the same?

OK, everyone check their frame rear loop and report back.

I did try moving the rear fairing over when I was installing it, but it just didn't seem to want to go, I even tried bending the guard and all I got was a dent in it under the loop. I was blaming it on the guard, but it's the loop and the farther back you go the more it's out.

The Nortons are all so different. I got one of comnoz's breathers, and my frame brace by the sump plug is so close I couldn't install it. He said it's the only one he has had returned. Just my luck.

Dave
69S

DogT wrote:The Nortons are all so different. I got one of comnoz's breathers, and my frame brace by the sump plug is so close I couldn't install it. He said it's the only one he has had returned. Just my luck.
Dave
69S

Cycle World March 1971
"Two modifications differentiate the 1971 Commando frame from the first one. The crossmember underneath the engine has been moved forward slightly to facilitate quick removal of the sump cap..."

As opposed to the slow way which is to pull the engine? At least they got the important things right, it's straight where it counts..

I can get a box end spanner on the sump plug but not a socket. Just enough clearance to get the spanner on it. Jim's breather was just too big. I suppose if I had the gumption, I'd move the brace, but it's a bit late now.

Dave
69S

Been meanig to say , on a ' race hack ' was fairly standard to rn a plug in ( brazed ) rear loop , That'd be the 'next size down ',
so disapearing into the bushes backwards , the lighter ' sacrificial ' rear loop takes the impact without bending the chassis .

AND , yours is ' 3/8 in. ' off centre , reading the ruler , 3/8 per side = 3/4 total , but its only half that ' over ' .
The Big Check should be if the front area is ok , a few bits of wood taped / rubber banded on. Vertical , to BUTT a ruler against will get a few accurate measurements to your centerline datum . A bit of Builders String or Fishing line , tied off
tensioned , is moveable and easy to adjust and SIGHT along. Chalk line of a block of wood & spacer , run along the main tube , even if it gives two parrallel lines , you know the C/L is half way bertween / Splits it .

Engineers supplies have Engineers Chalk ( like a Builders Pencil , rectangular X sedtion ) and Injuneers dip it in oil
for marking old rusty steel , to economise on wear . Wont go on anything smooth then though .

AND you really need a STEEL RULER , with the ' zero ' datum , on the end , so it reads from what its butted against .

Bare Frame , Looping String lines from A to Z gets a spider web , standing clear , if all the lines line up , It would appear to
be Straight . Youre Laughing .

AS FOR SLEDGEHAMMERS , Olde Perry had me hold a Commando fram down while he assulted it with a Large Rubber Sledgehammer . Talk about bricking , thought Id get the Frame in my teeth .
Trade Secret ; You need a Rubber Sledgehammer .

Dog T is correct his loop to drawing is out, mayby due to some past fall over?
must admit my rear fender is slightly twisted making it look worse than it is, infact my mate give it a firm pull and held it. looked good, only to spring back again!

AS FOR SLEDGEHAMMERS , Olde Perry had me hold a Commando fram down while he assulted it with a Large Rubber Sledgehammer . Talk about bricking , thought Id get the Frame in my teeth .
Trade Secret ; You need a Rubber Sledgehammer . [/quote]

really
They definitely used a sledgehammer on the frame I had straighten out at the front end on a Motoliner jig- my ears are still ringing

Had the bike out today for a run and got back, started fretting about that darn rear loop. I already tried bending the tangs on the seat that go under the rosettes, so I figured I can bend the metal without the powder coat flaking off. I bent the dickens out of the seat tangs to get them to line up. So, here's how I proceeded, hobot style.



6 lb. maul, 2x4 blocked from front of frame loop to garage door frame, greasy rag over the place I'm going to whack, and place 2x4 over the rag and give it about 6-8 well placed whacks with the maul. Did it in stages to see if it was working or messing up. First few didn't seem to do much, but as I got to about 8 it seemed to start to move and appeared right. Put the guard back on, and it seems to line up pretty good. I think there is something strange about the guard though, even though it lines up with the frame center tube, there is still a bit of bend. It's visible in real live more than in the picture which looks pretty good.



Anyhow, I thought all youse guys would like this one.

Dog

Not perfect but darn near. I could live with those results. Good job Dog!

pvisseriii wrote:Not perfect but darn near. I could live with those results. Good job Dog!

Mine as a nasty bend in the guard, proberly the way it left the factory..not a problem ...just looks naff from the rear!

Your frame is bent from having both exhaust pipes on the same side. When you crack open the throttle all the thrust is on the left!

a walk in the park, I did it on my T140. Stout lever (I had 2" x 1/4" wall square tubing laying around, 6' long) and an Ancra tie down strap back as far as you can get it. Pad with old leather gloves and have several motobud's hold the bike. Go easy, it bends easy. Check, adjust as needed.

Just adding my 2 dollars worth here, the rear loop maybe bent on it’s own, or the whole chassis maybe bent.
Have you checked the wheel alignment with a straight edge
Also the headstock is vertical