Teledraulic fork rebuild

Classic Mechanics

I am looking over the parts drawing and deciding what to order prior to Teledraulic overhaul.
These parts in green look like what I need - seals, rubber pieces, leather pieces, fiber washer, plastic bush, etc.
anyone complete this Teledraulic refresh task recently?

Contact Steve Surbey at AMC Classic Spares. He should have everything on the shelf.

Mike at Walridge may have the goods, too, but Steve is the AMC specialist.

The biggest hassle is sliding the forks back in the the triple clamps, as you have to compress the fork springs. The ideal setup is to use the tool that threads into the fork tube and draws the tube into the triple clamp, but you'll figure something out ;-)

BillT said:

Contact Steve Surbey at AMC Classic Spares. He should have everything on the shelf.
Mike at Walridge may have the goods, too, but Steve is the AMC specialist.
The biggest hassle is sliding the forks back in the the triple clamps, as you have to compress the fork springs. The ideal setup is to use the tool that threads into the fork tube and draws the tube into the triple clamp, but you'll figure something out ;-)

Click to expand...

Thank you Bill, I do forget about AMC Spares and Steve has a great parts list on line as well.
I copied the pages regarding Teledraulic forks.
And I yellow highlighted the items that I think I need.

Yes, that should cover it. If you're replacing the steering head bearings, pack them in grease as you place them in the races. That should hold them in place until you've got the steering head re-assembled. Get a few extra bearings, too. Those little 3/16" balls are easy to lose. I got mine at a local hardware store at something like .18 each, so got 60. It's only if you don't have extras that you'll lose one ;-)

Also, If I remember, the races aren't marked, but it will be evident which ones go where. Just replace profile for profile.

Most of those parts will be fine when you take the forks apart. All you will really need are the seals and bushes. I'd go with the bronze. Things like fiber washers can be sourced at your local hardware store.

With the 56 balls: A greased cardboard toilet paper tube fits the headstock perfectly and will keep the balls from rolling down into the frame tubes when you replace them. I left it in for future times. This was on a '66 G80CS which has the Teledraulic forks. There is a nice tool to pull the fork tubes up into the yoke. I sure needed it because the external springs prevent grabbing the fork tubes to push them up.

Russ

Thanks Bill and Bat, good info.
I see a Teledraulic fork tool on Ebay UK for about $100 shipped to USA
I think you could fab this in no time flat with threaded rod found at Lowes....with exception to the threaded insert for the fork stanchion tube top.
What is this fork stanchion thread?
I don't have any old fork caps laying around...so?
I also see Steven has a tool listed as a B2141A fork puller for about $25 +UKshipping
Where is the ACCESSNORTON tool check out/rental service?

That's the same tool I have but it was like $35 when I bought it in the mid 80's. Eurotrash Jambalaya has it for $72 now. I'll loan it to you when you're ready if you can't make or find something that will work. You don't really need it as a real puller where you would crank it down hard. You just need something that will screw into the fork leg from the top so you can yank up on it with your hands. PM me. (I don't remember the internal thread size of the 1-1/4" forks and I don't have my G80CS anymore so if you can measure the size I won't have to send all of the adapters.) I think it was 26tpi. I may have a rusty fork top nut but I have to search for that.

Russ

batrider said:

That's the same tool I have but it was like $35 when I bought it in the mid 80's. Eurotrash Jambalaya has it for $72 now. I'll loan it to you when you're ready if you can't make or find something that will work. You don't really need it as a real puller where you would crank it down hard. You just need something that will screw into the fork leg from the top so you can yank up on it with your hands. PM me. (I don't remember the internal thread size of the 1-1/4" forks and I don't have my G80CS anymore so if you can measure the size I won't have to send all of the adapters.) I think it was 26tpi. I may have a rusty fork top nut but I have to search for that. Russ

Click to expand...

Thanks Bat, I am not sure what my timing is on pulling forks off for renewal, but a tool loan might be perfect. I need to gather all the fork parts first, I will keep posting as thing arrive. Someone local may have a fork nut I can turn into a tool. I am looking at the steering head pieces and trying to plan what to have in hand , so as not to be waiting for parts after I start this Teledraulic renewal process.
so here are the steering head items
1ea - 000805 lower stem race $16ea
2ea - 000806 upper and lower frame race $17ea
1ea - 012620 upper stem race $16ea
56ea - 3/16 balls - 000072 - ebay random suppliers 100ea - $7

I see all these pieces offered by smmotorco on Ebay.

Howdy gentlemen. Glad to be on the site. Im in the middle of restoring my P11 based cafe racer, (bike was built in a race shop in the late 60's in long beach CA). Lots of nifty parts on it.

I am currently working on the forks. and ran into a problem.

Im not sure what I have, I know they are Teledraulic matchless but (all the desognations of "road vs offroad" I have read refer to things like seats and fenders to determine which forks you have. None of that is original on this bike. To make matters worse, I have picked up a few sets of forks at the local swap meets to use for parts. And now they are all mixed up (project got side burnered for a few years), and I dont know which parts to use.

The first one I have a question about is the damper rods. It appears I have 2 differant versions. Which is which?

Pictures below. of the differances between the two types I have. Edit, cant seem to make pictures work, so I direct linked them

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb27 ... 223436.jpg
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb27 ... 223454.jpg

Motorrad said:

Howdy gentlemen. Glad to be on the site. Im in the middle of restoring my P11 based cafe racer, (bike was built in a race shop in the late 60's in long beach CA). Lots of nifty parts on it.I am currently working on the forks. and ran into a problem.Im not sure what I have, I know they are Teledraulic matchless but (all the desognations of "road vs offroad" I have read refer to things like seats and fenders to determine which forks you have. None of that is original on this bike. To make matters worse, I have picked up a few sets of forks at the local swap meets to use for parts. And now they are all mixed up (project got side burnered for a few years), and I dont know which parts to use.The first one I have a question about is the damper rods. It appears I have 2 differant versions. Which is which?Pictures below. of the differances between the two types I have. Edit, cant seem to make pictures work, so I direct linked them

Click to expand...

I think you would better off at the AJS/Matchless forum with this question.
http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7654

here is a photo of an Ebay sale of P11A fork parts.
Maybe part of this is useful.

Thank you for that picture. Unfortunatly it doesnt show the holes in the damper tube... Ill try with the AJS boys.

Please help me figure out what parts I need to rebuild my forks. I have the "off-road" innards in the forks of my early '67 P11 Norton P11/1225XX.

"Jampot" tells me that they do not have the "022890 Fork damper tubes -- for road use", so is there any benefit to changing the other "for road use" parts? Or considering the unavailability of these damper tubes, should I keep all the off-road parts together in this rebuild?

I do not have an image that translates directly to part numbers, but using what I have I have come up with the following list.

1 000051 Grease Nipple (Handlebar Lug)
2 022369 Main springs for road use
2 021785 Leather washers (top)
2 021786 Leather washers (bottom)
2 000203 Drain screw washers
2 022890 Fork damper tubes -- for road use
2 022079 Buffer springs -- for road use
2 022021 Buffer spring collars -- for road use (Are they different from the off-road ones fitted? Do I need these?)
2 020463 Fork gaiters

I already have new fork sliders and, fork the seals/bushings rebuild kit, and new fork extension seal holders.

I really tried to glean the available lists, but might have missed something. If you detect errors I have made, please advise.

Have you tried Walridge, AMC Classic Spares, and Russell Motors for those 022890 damper tubes? Those were used everywhere (even my lowly G3). It pays to shop around.

Also, you may want to check your fork tubes for straightness by rolling the two side by side and looking for daylight between them. No measuring tools needed. Mine were bent - one was a little more than the other right below the yoke - and I ended up with new fork tubes from Walridge (made by Andrews in the UK) and they are works of art. Everything fit perfectly so far. This job started out as just replacing fork seals!

Good luck. Putting them together is more fun than getting them apart.

Russ

These forks are from my lowly '61 Matchless G3 but basically same as P11 except for the spring shrouds.



This was part of my late winter project and the bike is back on the road now. It started out as a leaky seals replacement but ended up with new fork tubes and bushings as well as replacing steering head cups and balls. I left out the 6 rubbers under the springs because the ones I got from AMC Classic Spares must have been for 1-1/8" tubes and were too small to fit over the tubes and they do NOT stretch even if heated. They all bunch up when the forks are compressed the first time anyway.

My fork tubes were both really stuck in the bottom yoke and I beat on them more than I probably should have to remove. (I hurt my fork puller tool doing this too.) The alternate method (which I would now do next time) is to completely remove the top yoke and the headlight ears first so you can remove any rust on the tubes and soak that area in penetrating oil overnight and then press them through the lower yoke. Really easy that way.

I had trouble finding the fork tubes (02-2823) and finally ordered them through Walridge Motors. They are from Andrews Engineering in the UK. Lovely work and perfect fit. The ones Mike has listed in his catalog for fairly cheap have not been in stock for over a year but he says he still keeps getting promises from his source. I had no luck getting a return phone call after several tries from Forking By Frank which is where I got them years ago for my G80CS.

There - a little bit of Teledraulic talk to get you guys going!

p400 said:

I am looking over the parts drawing and deciding what to order prior to Teledraulic overhaul.
These parts in green look like what I need - seals, rubber pieces, leather pieces, fiber washer, plastic bush, etc.
anyone complete this Teledraulic refresh task recently?

Click to expand...

Hi.
I don't understand how the cover tube (item n. 16) is fixed to the bottom of the lower yoke.
Please, let me know.
Thank you.
Piero

pierodn said:

p400 said:

I am looking over the parts drawing and deciding what to order prior to Teledraulic overhaul.
These parts in green look like what I need - seals, rubber pieces, leather pieces, fiber washer, plastic bush, etc.
anyone complete this Teledraulic refresh task recently?

Click to expand...

Hi.
I don't understand how the cover tube (item n. 16) is fixed to the bottom of the lower yoke.
Please, let me know.
Thank you.
Piero

Click to expand...

The shroud (16 in the diagram from the rebuild article) is held in place by the fork spring.

Hi Bill,
thank you.
Piero

Hello ! Does anyone know where I can find the part numbers for the items without them on the exploded drawing further up on this topic ? Some have items numbers but no part numbers .
Thank you
Andy