Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod

Discussion in 'Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds' started by gortnipper, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    That is the plan.

    There is no tracer that I could see on it, which is why I just hooked it up in the first place. I checked it again last night when I disconnected it. Maybe it is supposed to have one and was constructed incorrectly. Time will tell, I guess.
     
  2. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

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    Possibly, as the harness often has unused brown/black, brown/blue and brown/purple Interpol wiring (also purple/black and green/purple).
     
  3. Fast Eddie

    Fast Eddie Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    Not my forte I'm afraid.

    FWIW, I used the indicator switch (an idea from Roger at RGM) and it works fine. I put an after market left hand bar switch on that does everything I need, in my quest for simplicity.

    Of course, this is only an option if you don't run indicators!
     
  4. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    I have to run indicators for a Warrant of Fitness here in NZ, since they came stock.

    Sorted the horn too. Just have to get a couple new eyelet connectors to tidy it up and on to the kill switch and ignition.
     
  5. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    Not quite as tidy as I would have liked. Removed the points wiring, installed the TriSpark, two relays and all the connections for the modern switchgear I am using.
     

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  6. batrider

    batrider Well-Known Member

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    No reflectors? Will it still pass the inspection?
     
  7. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    Shhh... did last time!
     
  8. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    I am wondering about getting a better ground to the head. I will likely move the ground wire to the other side/end of the head-steady.

    Or maybe will just add a jumper between the coil + and the head-steady mount on the head, since there are tapped holes in the front base. Any reason not to do this?
     
  9. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    I guess everything is relative. I found these pix as I was clearing out some space on my computer today. Whew!

    This is largely how I found the wiring when I got the bike, and after 10 years in storage on top of that.



    This is what things looked like after storage before I gave it a good clean.
     

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  10. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    I figured out why I was having such a bitch of a time with routing my clutch cable with my flat bars. I have a Venhill, which is listed on their site as:

    NORTON COMMANDO F/L CLUTCH CABLE
    N01-3-101
    1969-73 750 MODELS 'UK' - BARS; 1973-77 850 MODELS 'UK'- BARS (51" OUTER FOR ALLOY LEVERS) Clearance wire is 95mm (3 ¾)

    So, of course I ordered that when I was thinking I would stil use UK barrs. Wrong.

    On AN on the '74 page I find:

    7
    CLUTCH CABLE 51", US, Featherlight (06.2492, 06.6477)
    part-no: 06.2813

    Hmm...

    In the Mk2a parts book it lists 06.4963, and one can only find that via a p/n search on AN - not on the 74 page (which appears to have a mish mash of cables/years - except this one??!!)

    06.4963
    CLUTCH CABLE 48" (EUROPE Pre MK3) Featherlight

    Guess I get to cut my Venhill down about four inches and solder on a new nipple. Now, who can do that for me in AKL for a beer,,, or six?
     
  11. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    I had the cable cut down, but the new end stop was too large in diameter to fit into the tranny, despite him having the old one at hand. I filed down the head of the stop ok, but the neck was still to large to go into the yoke on the operating lever. So, I tried to file that down a bit and as it was thin, use a crimp to compress it. It fit, but it made me uneasy so I ordered the 06-4963 cable, which is the right length and has the right end stop. However, the lever end has a different horizontal barrel nipple - solid and without the plastic sleeve, and too long. Had to file about 1.5mm of the end to get it to fit in the lever. Sigh.

    At the same time, I ordered some new long exhaust locking rings - 750 style. My old long rings were of the pre-72 style and very worn and natty. Not a good look with the new FA head.

    I purchased a pair, and one of them appears to be slightly too large in diameter and will not go in further than half a turn by hand, or a turn with the exhaust wrench. I had lubricated the threads with anti seize, to no avail as it was starting to remove metal from my head. I also cannot get into my old RH10 head at all.

    I have some old short 850 nuts as well as the D12/167 nuts without the reinforced lugs, and these thread into the heads easily.

    Note that the other new lock ring went on fairly snugly, but nowhere near as impossible as this one.

    Also, as you can see in the photo, on this first attempt the chrome has flaked off two of the lugs quite badly on this ring. The chrome is VERY thin.

    AN nut.jpg

    AN have done right, and are sending me a replacement lock ring, but buyer beware on these.
     
  12. gortnipper

    gortnipper Well-Known Member VIP MEMBER

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    As I said in an earlier post, I had the old DomiRacer chrome muffler and foot peg stay plates, which were cheap and blistering badly. I didn’t like the new AN stock matte chrome ones as I had become rather attached to the chromy look. So, I had the lot re-chromed. The plate is very thick and looks great (much better than the AN plating on the stock plates or on the exhaust nuts). A couple of small imperfections, mostly right around the mounting holes and not from three feet.

    plates.jpg

    Happy.

    I do have a spare set of these that I will be listing shortly for sale, since the chroming minimum allowed me to do both sets.
     

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