Mk111 Project

Torontonian said:
Update: Replaced instruments with electronic type. Lots of tiny wires.

Have you got them wired in yet? 'It's a PITA of a job, but fairly straightforward if you take it step by step and follow the instructions.

What speedo drive set up did you use?
 
It's the cheapest simplest one. A fake cable into the Speedo drive gearbox that contains a sensor with protruding rubber shrouded tip. Small and not noticeable. There is also an option where the Speedo drive unit is rebuilt with a Hall-vane sensor instead of the internal gears , obviously to do away with the gearbox gear large gear which eventually fails.
 
Torontonian said:
It's the cheapest simplest one. A fake cable into the Speedo drive gearbox that contains a sensor with protruding rubber shrouded tip. Small and not noticeable. There is also an option where the Speedo drive unit is rebuilt with a Hall-vane sensor instead of the internal gears , obviously to do away with the gearbox gear large gear which eventually fails.

That's what I used, and so long as the speedo drive unit is in good condition, I can confirm it works well. I'm changing Mine though, with a modified version of the super neat cNw set up (requires modifying as Matt's kit is for neg earth components).
 
It's in good shape. As for the DT clamp I just went to unscrew it and it was less than tight. Looks like the powdercoat had compressed with the force of the clamp. Dremel tool time down to the metal.
 
Dremel rotary burr tip took off the powdercoat fairly quickly. DT clamp now securely against the frame tube metal. Tonight I did a different awkward job , removal of the stock horn and bracket. P.O. had the wires to it snipped off by cutters. Tiny newer horn beside the battery may have to go too. :roll:
 
Picked up a very good disc , a very good stepped seat , and a very good Dunlop K81 at the Burlington Swap. All cheap. Sold off many parts all used but good from pre-75. I can't kick anymore so am selling off. I'll change the bike's bodywork setup to Roadster as an interchangeable option from Interstate so need a good painter in GTA Toronto this winter. :)
 
Cleaned out primary. Lots of black goo from hydraulic tensioners wear. Remember I have 5 worn tensioners from the P.O. who saved them for lucky me. New ones are in place now. With Type 5 ATF up to drain plug. Added a lot of stainless bits too. Removed stock horn and put a Fiamm in it's place. Next a relay for it as a test of it was as weak as the original. Will check the ground tomorrow and test it again.
 
Doing a mock-up now. Am changing to roadster style , Tough to get the side panels to fit perfectly, so will be doing some bending and filing and fitting a longer bolt on the battery side mounting lug. This cover is a fiberglass reproduction. . Sigh. This all to get them to fit right BEFORE the paintwork. The seat I picked up at the Burlington CVMG swap is in great shape , lower with a raised passenger level for the wifey or sleeping bag stuff. It's about my pathetic butt or lack of one. The Interstate setup is lovely with a comfy enough seat , but it puts me too far back and leaning forward for the handlebars , so I will attempt this change. I prefer an upright stance due to a lifetime of occasional scoliosis pain. Devalues the bike big time , but I will just hang onto the original bodywork for now.
 
Value is only of interest when you come to sell it.

Until then, quality of the ride, to suit you, is really all that matters.
 
Yes , thanks for reinforcing my decision. It will no way look as good as the original silver 76 Interstate bodywork set-up , which I shall keep with the cross-over bean cans set-up stock from factory... BUT.. my Butt and back at 59 yrs. will appreciate the change until I can't ride anymore. I'm thinking the same silver.
 
That's what I used, and so long as the speedo drive unit is in good condition, I can confirm it works well. I'm changing Mine though, with a modified version of the super neat cNw set up (requires modifying as Matt's kit is for neg earth components).
Hi Eddie, I am surprised to learn about the negative earth requirement. CnW doesn't mention this in their description!
https://coloradonortonworks.net/part-categories/cnw-frame-body.html
How do you accomplish a signal on the negative cable lead (as opposed to the positive lead) ? By fitting an external signal conversion unit? The sender is potted as I recall.
This will not be a problem for me as I am wiring for negative ground from the outset .....

Rgds. Knut
 
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Hey Knut,

Actually, on that link you posted, it says in bold text “Note: The kit is designed to run with a Negative ground system only”.

I got around it by using a pick up supplied by Smiths, it’s a smaller diameter so the cNw housing required bushing. Matt supplied me a plain large nut, that I drilled and fitted a magnet into.

It should all work perfectly, but at present, it’s sat on the shelf!
 
Update : Saw the kicker seal was leaking out red Redline oil , so removed kicker, prised out the seal and used a socket to tap home the new one. Motoseal applied to edges of the seal bore. Kicker back on with grade 12 bolt using power bar. I will not be kicking with it , just priming up the motor only before pressing on that magic green button.
With the roadster mock up happening now , I noticed the big Odyssey battery was pressing on or too close to the battery cover. So I pulled it out and attacked it with a hacksaw. No need for alarm ! Simply hacked off all the plastic fins that were cast into the lengthward 2 sides . Now she fits perfectly onto the stock rubber base mat.
Also had to fit a spacer to the rear fender mount at the horn area as fender was just touching the Fiamm , causing a sound like a mouse stuck to a sticky trap. So the back of the fender rides a tad higher , no biggie.
 
Update: Spent all night peacefully wet hand sanding out with 220 grit all the nicks and scratches inflicted by the previous owner to the primary cover. Finer grits for later. Noticed the shifter lever is a tad sloppy , so will be replacing the bush and seal soon.
 
Update: Spent all night peacefully wet hand sanding out with 220 grit all the nicks and scratches inflicted by the previous owner to the primary cover. Finer grits for later. Noticed the shifter lever is a tad sloppy , so will be replacing the bush and seal soon.
it might be the cross-shaft gears and splines giving you slop
 
The crossover runs at a slight skew, so it has to have some slop to work smoothly The shift quadrant and short output shaft are parallel but not aligned, so the crossover splines and gear do not mesh perfectly with their partners. Can't get a view of the rubber-sleeved splined junction, but there and the gears in the chaincase is where your play may be.
 
Thanks. Pulled the cover , heat gun to the shifter bush area produced lots of oil bleeding and weeping out of the aluminum casting around the bush out of .. what is that ? A hairline crack at the bottom of the bush casting area.
Plus the gear shifter shaft with the internal gear end has wear on the gear teeth.
So.. knowing that I had a spare outer primary cover in my pile , (and shifter arm/gear) I dug them out and heat-gunned the area , knocked out the bush with a socket ( no casting crackage there) and knocked in the new frozen bush. Did it fast before the bush could suck up heat. 4 good taps did it. The old original bush was a split type with "X" style grooves to the oil lube hole. The new bush was solid with no grooves, just only the oil entry hole , which had to be lined up with the drilled casting hole. The interesting part was the differences in the two MK111 castings at the shifter bush area. One was twice as thick (1975) aluminum there. The 76 bike cover was thinner there and had the lower hairline crack. So it shows the MK111 cover casting was changed. This crack I've learned is caused by a drop or any previous fallover on the left side . Tomorrow I tap in the new seal home with a little Motoseal 1 .
 
New seal in place. Yes , the outer casting has a very slight angle cast into it at the bush , to properly line up with the crossover shaft angle and the 2 gears.
 
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