Mitch's 74 Basket Case

Back to work on this one.
Inner cover hardware all in place.

Gear box outer cover ready to go back on with a coat of 3bond Sealer on the gasket.

Here' s the seal I used on the kick starter shaft. My 72 leaked like a sieze with a stock oring until I put one of these in. Several thousand miles on it now and bone dry.

Poor photo of it installed

Oops, forgot to put the shifter oring in. Had to take the cover back off. Found on the 72 just an oring works okay on the shifter as it is mostly above fluid level.

Back to finishing up the bottom end.
Timing cover with AMR/Nortech anti-sumping mod. Did this on my 72 and solved the problem of having to drain the sump every time I rode the thing. New crank seal.

Oil pump back on. AMR also modified the pump with an o-ring between the two compartments.

Cleaned up some of the frame parts for painting. Used a wire cup brush in my angle grinder, followed by scotch brite pads.

Everything coated with a couple of coats of etching primer

Cradle and swing arm painted with gloss black Rustoleum engine enamel from a spray can. Supposed to with stand heat up to 500F and oil and gas resistant.

Other bits painted

Don't slow down now.

Sleep is highly over-rated...

Rear brake, cleaned and greased, brake shoes had plently of meat left so were reused.

Outside of the drum, hardware cleaned up using a soft wire wheel on the bench grinder.

Front wheel, new rim and spokes, new sealed bearings.

Rear wheel, new rim and spokes, new sealed bearings.

htown16 said:

Outside of the drum, hardware cleaned up using a soft wire wheel on the bench grinder.

Click to expand...

Everything you cleaned up using this method, could use AT LEAST a spray of clear rattle-can Rust-O-Leum, or it will certainly be rusty brown in a few weeks.

You might consider a home plating kit, like Eastwoods...

They weren''t rusty, just grungy and still had the orginal plating on them. I've found if the original plating is somewhat still intact they will continue to look pretty good and not rust, just kinda of look patined, to use an overworked word. Important to use a soft wire brush. I also polish the bigger bits with simichrome. However, if they have rusted or are pitted then I usually replace them if nuts and bolts or paint them. Here's some I just cleaned with the wire brush and simichromed on a 70 BSA over 5 years ago. Now if I was building a concours competitor I would probably replate. But for an everyday rider I think it looks okay.

What type of rivets do you use?
Here's the fork's finished, new seals, new stanchions and new Progressive springs.

This project is about to go on a hiatus. Most of the subassemblies are finished and the next big step is to start bolting them together. I have another project that needs some attention devouted to it. I bought this Trident about 2 1/2 years ago.

It was a non runner and look liked all it needed was carbs cleaned and some new tires. Well as usual once you start working on something you see more and more things that need fixed, worst problem was badly dimpled valve tops from damaged adjusters, requiring the head to come off and the valves to be replaced. Between the suprises and other projects, I finally finished it this last December. It's sitting there waiting for me try to start it and see how it goes. If all goes well I may be back on this Norton in a few months. But I'm determined to straighten the Trident out first. Also, it's prime riding weather in this part of the country right now. The Thunderbolt, Bonneville and 72 Commando are all shined up and running good, along with the Sportster, so time to drop the wrenches and put on the helmet. If you want to follow the Trident saga, here is the link.
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthrea ... Post504097

Well the Trident started on the third kick, no smoke and good oil pressure. Rode it around the neighborhood. The carbs needed dialed in and by the time I got the parts here and installed our weather had turned hot. Not a good time to be fine tuning an air cooled engine and I don't enjoy getting soaked with sweat anymore. So it's on hold until the fall. Which leaves time to get back on the 850.
The enamel paint on the frame had a good chance to cure, so up on the lift to start the reassembly process.

Front end mostly assembled.

I like it when the fresh frame gets strapped down and shiny stuff starts getting bolted on.

Yep, reassembly is ten times more enjoyable than stripping down and cleaning the 40 years of accumulated muck off parts.
More progress.
Front end finished with new tire and tube.

New MarkIII style isolastics, swing arm spindle and bushings and shocks.

Up on wheels with the gear box installed.

Next step is to build up the engine in the frame. Bottom end has been rebuilt, cylinders bored and new pistons and rings and head has been overhauled.

Lookin' good............
In a great workshop !

Houston, we have a roller!

Keep up the great work!

Bit of an update
Rebuilt bottom end with new bearings bolted in place.

+20 bored cylinders with new pistons and rings

Timing cover with AMR anti-wet sumping mod, polished and in place.

You'll be ready right in time for the rainy season.