Inspection cover removal

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I am having trouble removing the timing inspection cover from the primary chain case. It is apparent that the previous owner had similar problems, from the hacked up slot in that cover.

Does anyone have any tricks that might facilitate this process, before I have to remove the outer case and cut through the inspection cover to persuade it out?
 
If you don't have the tool, heat along with a large slotted screwdriver backed with a flexible putty knife has worked in a pinch for me in the past.
 
Use a large slotted screw drive but not the normal way lay it side ways with the slotted end in the cut way of the inspection slot and use the handle of the screw driver as leverage works for me every time on tight inspection plugs and doesn't damage the slot.

Ashley
 
Ash,
I still cringe when I hear the word screwdriver to be used on the slots of an inspection cap. It screws it all right, but it does get it open. It still marks up the slot or has the possibility to slip and your nice cap is not so much, anymore. Most flat screwdrivers are tapered. If you want to keep the inspection caps looking good, you need to invest in the tool or make something to fit. If they are already buggered then I agree...have at it.YMMV:rolleyes:
Cheers,
Tom
 
Tried a HUGE screwdriver with a wrench for leverage + heated it up to "don't touch", and still no go.

I guess I'll remove the cover and cut through the slot. Done that once before where there was no option I could find. I'll be replacing all of the hacked up inspection covers. POs suck!
 
Try Kroil oil or other penetrating oil before applying brute force.

Use silicone grease or other anti-seize compound on the new covers to prevent a re-occurence of sticking.

Slick
 
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Tom I have been using the large screw driver side ways trick for 42 years on my Norton and still have the orginal caps that are as good as the day they came out of the factory with anything you have to be carefull but when they are tight the long leverage with the big screw drive gets them undone, a long tyre lever works as well as I had to use one on my mate's caps once as they were so tight, it was so tight it made a big cracking noise when it did finaly let go.
As for the OP spray a lot of penatrating fluid on them for a the day and give it another try as remember leverage is your best friend.

Ashley
 
Brian,
Make up a tool with some flat plate material to fit into the slot with a tight slide fit. A tight fitting large washer may do it by using a file to flatten the curve to maximize the purchase area of the slotted section. Try and put heat around the outer area of the primary but not on the cap by directing the heat away from the cap. Use a wet towel to cool the cap. Use two adjustable wrenches on opposing ends to turn the cap off with the tool you made. There should be an o-ring on the cap. Good luck.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
Ashley,
I hear you and if it is done carefully then no damage. " But ". I have seen a lot of buggered inspection caps from DPO's in my days.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
Plus 1 on a home made tool, 2 washers placed on top of each other and tacked (welded) together for the correct width for the slot (in my case ,was what i had to hand) .then use a small (or large) adjustable (cresent) spanner to turn. fits perfect in the tool bag
 
The Top tool, this is the tool I made when I first bought my Combat in the early 80's
The one below is what I have in my tool pouch for the bike.

Inspection cover removal



various caps some buggered some ok. All are marked from not using the correct tool.
Inspection cover removal

Cheers,
Thomas
 
I have a thin open end tappet wrench (spanner) that fits perfectly in the slot. No buggering. Find a tool that fits and gives some leverage, not a screwdriver.
 
A fair amount of heat around the cap working outwards quite a bit and then cooling just the cap with an ice cube may work. Aluminum responds quickly to temp changes. If still no-go I'd just use a small blunted chisel and a small lightish ball-peen hammer for a go. It will mess up the slot more but you sound prepared to get a new cap anyway.
 
Maybe heat plus a spray product called freeze off. Best done with a friend: One of you is ready to start twisting the cap and the other heats up the area(not the cap -- as said before). The cap will get hot quick and you don't want that -- but it's almost unavoidable. However there is a spray product called "freeze off" or something like that. As soon as the heat is done being applied , the cap gets sprayed to freeze it, while twisting at the cap at the same time.
 
I've had some luck with using a lubricant the same way you would use solder on copper pipe. You heat the piece, in this case you are better off heating the primary cover, and then apply your lubricant rapidly to the joint. The capillary action draws it in. Something like transmission fluid in an oil can works pretty well. It has a flash point above 400 degrees, so you can put it on hot aluminum without it bursting into flame. So check the flash point on what you choose to use. Most spray lubes flash off fairly low so be wary of aerosols. I've also had luck brushing on anti-seize and then heating until it is drawn into the joint. The MSDS says it has a flash point of around 200F, but I have put it on cast iron pipe joints and drawn it into the joint with heat from a torch without it flaming up. Corrosion Block has worked well for me in places where I can puddle it and then heat until it starts to show signs of boiling. It draws into a joint nicely. But the ATF has a much higher heat tolerance.

As for a tool, hit the local flea market and pick up a wide chisel and reshape the end to fit, or look for a caulking iron. They used to be common in boating communities but these days nobody knows what they are. Typically they are made from really good steal and are perfect for repurposing.

But then I like old tools as well as old bikes!

Inspection cover removal


Even better if you find one of these

Inspection cover removal


Often if you find caulking irons, there may be reefing hooks with them. Just more cool old tools that would repurpose well for removing covers.

Inspection cover removal
 
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+1 for the open end spanner , get one that fits nice . Loctite freeze & release is very good too .
 
I don't think any lube will get to the threads because of the O-ring but it can't hurt anything. Heat and sharp tapping with a small hammer every so often should do it.
 
I don't think any lube will get to the threads because of the O-ring but it can't hurt anything. Heat and sharp tapping with a small hammer every so often should do it.

This is a good point, but if you are going to take off the primary cover eventually if other measures fail, you could always attack it from the rear. At some point the main objective is going to be to preserve the threads in the primary cover. Could always go to a belt drive and start cutting vents I guess!
 
Heat for sure. I use a couple of large coins or fender washers held together with large vice grips. Easy enough to get the leverage needed.
 
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