Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?

illf8ed said:
I don't see the clutch rod seal in this photo :) Got one on mine also.
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I noticed that when I looked at the pic after posting. Must have been a work in progress - sorry about that. :D

BTW my cradle had a repaired crack in it when I bought the bike. Still OK.

Although my bike dates from late 70, note the later type sidestand. I did that mod. when I stripped it down a few years ago. This bike appears to have been relieved of its original sidestand by about 1973 when my friend bought it. I made a new crossmember and had the lug and crossmember welded on. Getting the angle of the lug correct is crucial to the angle of lean of the bike. It took a lot of "putting and looking" and a bit of guesswork with a bare frame, but it came out good in the end.
I was going to leave the other crossmember in place as a reminder of its past, but strangely it contacted the cradle when the bike was reassembled. I had to cut it out with the power unit in place - bugger. So it's just as well that I had another crossmember in place.
Also, note how much easier it is to see parts when they're not painted damn black.
 
My 70 cross member is about 1/2" from the cradle. Makes getting the 1 1/2" sump drain off problematical. I use a box end spanner, socket won't go past the cross piece. I think there must have been some variation in the dimensions on these early bikes. I have to take the carbs off to get the carb rubbers on and off where most do it with the carbs on. It also helps to put the later engine to frame spring on to pull the engine up a bit at the front. That also stops a bit of the idle vibration.
 
DogT said:
My 70 cross member is about 1/2" from the cradle. Makes getting the 1 1/2" sump drain off problematical. I use a box end spanner, socket won't go past the cross piece. I think there must have been some variation in the dimensions on these early bikes
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It seems you're right about variations. I could use a ring spanner or socket on that drain plug no problems with the original crossmember in place.
 
Good to see 750s. The numbers are dropping here and now more 850s. Was not that way in the 80s.
 
We just found a second batch of parts - some of which I hadn't even realized I was missing yet.
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?
 
I got the carbs off and stripped down tonight. The fuel line "T" connections and the Amal banjos are both plastic, can I re-use them?
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


The float bowls and jets look pretty good after sitting for 35 years or so!
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


This is the crazy thing though. It looks like one of the studs that connect the manifold to the Amal was replaced with a bolt. For the life of me I cannot figure out how to get it out. I think this is some kind of puzzle that my father left behind to confound me! With the tickler pushed in I tried every orientation I could and may either leave it that way or resort to cutting it and ordering a replacement stud.
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


I've read that I should flatten these surfaces (float bowl, manifolds, and carburetor) on a sheet of glass or other flat surface with emory paper for a better seal. Is that right?

Now I just need to set up a proper parts cleaning station and get some cleaning solution so I stop using the kitchen sink...my wife didn't complain but I don't think I can push that one too far without some repercussions.
 
The tickler can be replaced, so you can remove it to make some room to get the bolt out.
 
wrecks said:
The fuel line "T" connections and the Amal banjos are both plastic, can I re-use them?
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Yes, but if they show any sign of hardening and therefore may be brittle then it might be better to replace them.



wrecks said:
The float bowls and jets look pretty good after sitting for 35 years or so!
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If they are still the old plastic float needles I suggest you replace them with the viton tipped alloy type.
http://amalcarb.co.uk/light-weight-alum ... n-tip.html


wrecks said:
I've read that I should flatten these surfaces (float bowl, manifolds, and carburetor) on a sheet of glass or other flat surface with emory paper for a better seal. Is that right?
Click to expand...

Yes.

The tickers can also be ugraded to the later extended waterproof type.

Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?
 
I got the engine out of the frame today and into a makeshift stand.
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


I also pulled the cylinder head (by the way, this is the farthest I've even been into an engine in my life...and it sort of has me freaked out). I had to file down the outside of a 14mm box end wrench to get the nuts off the three studs that are accessed from underneath the fins. It would have been nice to have a 1/4W spanner but I managed to get them off without buggering up the nuts. The other bolts came out easily with a 1/4 Whitworth socket - although I was yarding on a few of them so hard I thought I was going to snap something. There is a lot of black oxidation on the inside of the head:
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


Intake port:
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


Exhaust port:
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


Cylinders:
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


Here is a closer look at one of the cylinders, there was actually some debris sitting on top of the cylinders...I'm not sure if that fell in when I pulled the head or if it was already there.
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


What are those scratches that are visible down the sides of the cylinder walls?
 
That doesn't look too bad at all.

The fact that there is clear crosshatching and no vertical scratches or glazing is a good sign.

Valves look perfectly normal for an older bike, but do show clear evidence of significant oil fouling. Likely from worn valves, guides, and/or rings.
 
Should I pull those studs from the head to keep working on it? If so, those are 3/8 x 20...is that correct?
 
wrecks said:
Should I pull those studs from the head to keep working on it? If so, those are 3/8 x 20...is that correct?
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Your choice, however, as the thread is 3/8 x 20 (BSF) it's not unknown for the studs to pull out of the head so perhaps better not to disturb them unnecessarily.
 
L.A.B. said:
wrecks said:
Should I pull those studs from the head to keep working on it? If so, those are 3/8 x 20...is that correct?
Click to expand...

Your choice, however, as the thread is 3/8 x 20 (BSF) it's not unknown for the studs to pull out of the head so perhaps better not to disturb them unnecessarily.
Click to expand...

That's one option wrecks...

But given that you've had a lesson in dealing with the box wrench selection process and seen how fiddly head nut access can be, you might wanna check out the head stud kits sold by cNw, they have small 12 point heads which use stock sockets and are a joy to use! They also sell studs to replace the known weak point that LAB mentions.

Removing the studs will also allow you to properly check and / or skim the head as required.

The only real downside to the cNw kit is that it is so beautifully made and finished, it may show up the rest of the bike, unless you operate to a suitably high standard!

The choice is yours!
 
I got my valves out last night with a c-clamp and a piece of Schedule 80 PVC hacked up by a Dremel tool. A few of the keepers were really stuck in there and needed some serious persuasion to come loose.
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


I still need to clean up the valve seats:
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


I do intend to pull the studs so I can grind the head gasket surface flat. I just can't find two nuts of the proper size to back them out!

Also, I noticed when I was taking things apart that the rocker arm valve adjusters were not located in the center of the valve stems ends so I'll have to figure that one out on reassembly.
 
wrecks said:
I got my valves out last night with a c-clamp and a piece of Schedule 80 PVC hacked up by a Dremel tool. A few of the keepers were really stuck in there and needed some serious persuasion to come loose.
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


I still need to clean up the valve seats:
Basket Case Project - What Have I Gotten Myself Into?


I do intend to pull the studs so I can grind the head gasket surface flat. I just can't find two nuts of the proper size to back them out!

Also, I noticed when I was taking things apart that the rocker arm valve adjusters were not located in the center of the valve stems ends so I'll have to figure that one out on reassembly.
Click to expand...
You might want to look at vapor blasting to clean your head, cylinders an crank cases. Unlike media blasting it doesn't leave any grit.
John in Texas
 
Leave bolts in there. If you must remove them, the thread depends whether it’s English or metric.
I would just clean up and remove the left-over gasket with a low revving power drill with a BRASS rotary brush and check if head is flat with a steel rule
 
Pull them and install ARP bolts with helicoils. Also skim the barrel top flat. The combination of those two skims and ARP bolts should prevent the blow by seen in a lot of heads.
 
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