1969 Ranger Brake Parts

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Aug 25, 2017
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I have just about completed this restoration and have back timed it to a P11. Hung up on a couple of parts and would appreciate some help. Front brake cable for a 69 was different than 67 and 68 according to sources and need to know what will fit. I have already tried a 67-68 and the free cable is not long enough. Rear brakes shoes are an issue as well. What will fit? I have been in-touch the gentlemen at the AMC parts website and they say I need to send the shoes so they can reline. I would rather do it myself. And finally my rear, chrome brake backing plate is sound but needs re-chroming. I am looking for one that is decent without having to re chrome. Any help would be appreciated!

Sisters2
1966 Atlas
1969 Ranger
 
the original 67 parts book calls for 25220 for the cable - which is the same part number for early 650SS, Atlas and N15/G15.

The 67-68 master manual calls for 032287, which would be used with an adjuster at the lever

I don't know the number for the 69 - that parts supplement is pretty rare - but is the same as the Mercury, and has the inline brake switch.

The earlier cables don't have the switch.

When I restored my Ranger, I bought an early Commando cable and cut the outer sheath to match the free length of my original cable. At the time, Mike Partridge did not sell a Ranger cable.
 
I believe I have that front brake cable new in the plastic bag, it came from Walridge.
 
The difference between P11/P11A and Ranger 750 front brake cable is the Ranger 750 has a light switch in the cable. Many front cables listed as P11 will not fit unless you remove the clevis loop and shorten the cable outer.
The rear brake plate has a chrome cover riveted to it. The cover is available from the AMC spares (and others), but will need to have new holes drilled in the back plate. As far as I know the P11 one is not available , but the Matchless one will fit with rivet holes lined up.
 
< ..> As far as I know the P11 one is not available , but the Matchless one will fit with rivet holes lined up.

You also need to drill the cover plate for the torque arm bolt.

-Knut
 
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